Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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Clamping Hexes
I picked up the front and rear clamping hexes for the B5M and was wondering a couple things:
1) How snug to the hub carriers should i install these? Do i need to leave a little play?
2) How tight do you tighten down the screws? I snug them up and then give them a little torque... I didn't crush them down, but just wondering.
3) Should I be putting loctite on the screws?
Thanks!
1) How snug to the hub carriers should i install these? Do i need to leave a little play?
2) How tight do you tighten down the screws? I snug them up and then give them a little torque... I didn't crush them down, but just wondering.
3) Should I be putting loctite on the screws?
Thanks!
Last edited by sstriano; 01-19-2015 at 10:48 AM.
don't need to start a war here but wheres wc in bin mounths
Last night I took my front end apart to see about putting some weight in the bulkhead instead of spending the money on a brass one. But then I noticed that the top brace is hollow in that portion. So instead of messing with trying to form lead around the bracing in the bend of the front chassis, I just put some weigh up in the hollow portion. Has anyone else tried this? Did it work well or is the weight too high up?
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I picked up the front and rear clamping hexes for the B5M and was wondering a couple things:
1) How snug to the hub carriers should i install these? Do i need to leave a little play? Push axle in with thumb and press hex with finger
2) How tight do you tighten down the screws? I snug them up and then give them a little torque... I didn't crush them down, but just wondering. No need to use hulk strength...just tighten until resistance.
3) Should I be putting loctite on the screws? No
Thanks!
1) How snug to the hub carriers should i install these? Do i need to leave a little play? Push axle in with thumb and press hex with finger
2) How tight do you tighten down the screws? I snug them up and then give them a little torque... I didn't crush them down, but just wondering. No need to use hulk strength...just tighten until resistance.
3) Should I be putting loctite on the screws? No
Thanks!
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What is going to happen if I leave them out?
FWIW my current crush tubes measure 1.98mm thick. What do the new ones measure?
Thanks!!
Last edited by sstriano; 01-19-2015 at 12:37 PM.
R/C Tech Elite Member
Last night I took my front end apart to see about putting some weight in the bulkhead instead of spending the money on a brass one. But then I noticed that the top brace is hollow in that portion. So instead of messing with trying to form lead around the bracing in the bend of the front chassis, I just put some weigh up in the hollow portion. Has anyone else tried this? Did it work well or is the weight too high up?
Lower on the chassis the weight is, the better it is for the CG
How much weight did you add ?
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How long of a sensor wire do you have to have to work in the recommended spot where you mount the esc.
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NOTE: THIS IS NOT AN AD...
http://www.redrc.net/2015/01/rdrp-b5...teering-plate/
Revolution Design Racing Products have a new aluminium option part for the Team Associated B5 series of buggies available. The aluminium steering plate replaces the kit’s plastic rack with a more sturdy solution for added rigidity and better looks. The CNC-machined 7075-T6 aluminium part considerably strengthens the steering assembly for less slop, a more precise steering reaction and less flex, resulting in a rock solid steering feeling and more durability in the event of a crash. The RDRP B5RM/MM Aluminium Steering Plate fits the B5, B5M and T5M kit and it comes blue anodised and laser-etched to match the remainder of RDRP’s Team Associated option parts.
Exotek B5M Aluminum Rear Ball Stud Mount
Wanting confirmation that the side that is supposed to be the same as the stock ball stud mount is actually the same. It looks like it is 1mm higher. Thanks
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Heavy duty alloy rear ballstud mount for the Associated B5M. Machined down to 6 grams to minimize weight but made with 7075 alloy to increase the strength over the stock piece.
2 sided design has the stock roll center height on 1 side and -2mm roll center on the other side for extra tuning options.
Laser extched and polished and anodized in your choice of factory blue or black.
2 sided design has the stock roll center height on 1 side and -2mm roll center on the other side for extra tuning options.
Laser extched and polished and anodized in your choice of factory blue or black.
Man, I'm still on the plastic one that came with my b5m conversion, and I ran that thing for months on an 1/8 scale outdoor track. Do people actually break the stock plastic one? I even dead sailored a few times due to wind outside.
Just curious. Not trying to be incredulous here, but I think I've only seen it happen to one person at our track, and people used to rip them out of the b4 camber standoff all the time. To me, it seems that they really got that part right on the b5m and everybody just upgrades it anyway.
Wayne
Just curious. Not trying to be incredulous here, but I think I've only seen it happen to one person at our track, and people used to rip them out of the b4 camber standoff all the time. To me, it seems that they really got that part right on the b5m and everybody just upgrades it anyway.
Wayne