Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (112)
A camber gauge should be one of the first set-up tools a guy should buy!
I never even go by the manual recommendations when building camber links.
I always shoot a lil black grease in the end, get the turnbuckle started and run it in a certain amount of turns, then do the same for the other end. When the kit is built I throw some tires on and get out the camber gauge and set them to my usual settings for the track (usually -1* up front and -1.5* to -2* in the rear). The manual settings are merely a suggestion and shouldn't be the set in stone setting as they will be way off!
I did check the trailing arm pills, and caster inserts. I wasn't really going to stay with the kit settings for camber anyway but everything should be even side to side or close enough that you can't eye it. I use the de racing setup wheels on a glass table to measure the camber so the readings should be accurate enough. But at this point I feel like I checked every thing. Any other ideas?
Moderator
iTrader: (20)
Is your trim set correctly? If your front tires are turned even slightly your camber as measured to the surface will change. You have to check the front camber with the car and radio on and steering centered dead-nuts.
Good tip, but I definetly measure with everything on and centered. I do notice the steering block has a lot of up and down play within the caster block, especially compared to the fit on my b5r. I took the entire front clip off of my b5r and bolted it up to the chassis of the b5m lite and did not have this issue, so I think the chassis is straight. I would really hate to just buy all the plastic on the front and replace when it's brand new
Are there 2 different length rod ends in the kit? Would measure the samesame between thethe rod ends butbut be longer/shorter between the balls.
I checked and the cups are the same with the total turnbuckle length being 76mm.
Super Moderator
iTrader: (81)
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (112)
Wow and I thought my OCD was bad... I'd just set the camber and go.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (7)
This is a must to have the radio on and steering centered....
Ok I just swapped the front shocked left to right and now it seems like everything is ok as both are around 3 degrees so I can adjust from there. I still don't know what was wrong but at least I know the chassis isn't tweaked. I'm not really super OCD about cause at leAst I don't feel that you can ever set thing 100% the same left to right but it should be close. This was so far off before that I knew it would never be close. it it's just that if the something isn't right I know I will just be chasing a setup and it's easier to find out now versus after running it. Thanks to all who responded as it was all good stuff to check.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
Ok I just swapped the front shocked left to right and now it seems like everything is ok as both are around 3 degrees so I can adjust from there. I still don't know what was wrong but at least I know the chassis isn't tweaked. I'm not really super OCD about cause at leAst I don't feel that you can ever set thing 100% the same left to right but it should be close. This was so far off before that I knew it would never be close. it it's just that if the something isn't right I know I will just be chasing a setup and it's easier to find out now versus after running it. Thanks to all who responded as it was all good stuff to check.
I have some questions guys I will be running on a hard packed indoor smooth clay dirt mixture track it usually stays damp I am just a mid pack driver which car would be better for me a MM or RM car.
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Yes!
A camber gauge should be one of the first set-up tools a guy should buy!
I never even go by the manual recommendations when building camber links.
I always shoot a lil black grease in the end, get the turnbuckle started and run it in a certain amount of turns, then do the same for the other end. When the kit is built I throw some tires on and get out the camber gauge and set them to my usual settings for the track (usually -1* up front and -1.5* to -2* in the rear). The manual settings are merely a suggestion and shouldn't be the set in stone setting as they will be way off!
A camber gauge should be one of the first set-up tools a guy should buy!
I never even go by the manual recommendations when building camber links.
I always shoot a lil black grease in the end, get the turnbuckle started and run it in a certain amount of turns, then do the same for the other end. When the kit is built I throw some tires on and get out the camber gauge and set them to my usual settings for the track (usually -1* up front and -1.5* to -2* in the rear). The manual settings are merely a suggestion and shouldn't be the set in stone setting as they will be way off!
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (40)
http://www.redrc.net/2016/02/avid-tr...t/#more-108237
Avid have introduced the Triad direct drive set that allows stock racers to remove the entire clutch assembly for conditions where the driver feels having less rotating mass and zero slip except from the differential is beneficial. The unit is of a very lightweight design which was accomplished by removing all the plates and pads as well as the steel spring with a minimalist design done in aluminium. The DD plate is hard anodised for strength and the DD post is gutted for weight removal for a grand total of 0.8 gram. For B5M owners, there is also an included M4 aluminium flanged locknut to remove even more weight. The direct drive set is a direct fitment for Team Associated 5th generation vehicles such as the B5, T5 and SC5 and it is also usable on TLR22 and Kyosho RB6 kits with the latter requiring the Avid Triad Kyosho aluminium top shaft. The set will hit the stores soon.
Avid have introduced the Triad direct drive set that allows stock racers to remove the entire clutch assembly for conditions where the driver feels having less rotating mass and zero slip except from the differential is beneficial. The unit is of a very lightweight design which was accomplished by removing all the plates and pads as well as the steel spring with a minimalist design done in aluminium. The DD plate is hard anodised for strength and the DD post is gutted for weight removal for a grand total of 0.8 gram. For B5M owners, there is also an included M4 aluminium flanged locknut to remove even more weight. The direct drive set is a direct fitment for Team Associated 5th generation vehicles such as the B5, T5 and SC5 and it is also usable on TLR22 and Kyosho RB6 kits with the latter requiring the Avid Triad Kyosho aluminium top shaft. The set will hit the stores soon.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (86)