tekin112000

iTrader: (6)

ARC I was able to order the second version, there is a left and right.

However they don't fit

The chassis brace is 3.51mm thick, it seems like the battery retainers are made for thinner carbon fiber, maybe 2.56mm thick like the other chassis parts.

A.C.R.

Chassis brace is 3mm thick, and retainers have a space of 3.1mm.
Laser sintered parts have higher tolerances than machined or molded parts, but it still should fit with a small amount of pressure or with a little bit of sanding.

Please try again. Mine fitted.

tekin112000

iTrader: (6)

I measured with calipers, the chassis brace is 3.51mm thick, I have the second version of the kit. Maybe you have the first version

I agree that the space in the battery retainer is 3.1mm but that is not enough space to fit on the chassis brace.

I was able to sand the retainer and remove enough material to squeeze the retainers on the chassis brace

Archie10

iTrader: (22)

Does anyone know whats the FDR for this car?

DBM

Will the vbc pivot balls work with the AE lower arms, or do I need to buy the AE balls?

DBM

Changed out the ball cups for tamiya ones. Much better. Now it is obvious that there is a lot of slop in the steering knuckles. I think I'm just going ti swap out all of the mushy vbc plastic parts for AE or Xenon parts.
Edit: I'll probably order the aluminum steering knuckles from the lightning 10.

tekin112000

iTrader: (6)

Tell us how it works out with the L10 knuckles.

It seems like my front has a lot of slop, what Tamyia ball cups did you use?

DBM

Tamiya 53601low friction adjuster. They say 5mm, but they are 4.7mm. They are a common upgrade used on spec-r touring cars which use 4.7mm ball studs.

tekin112000

iTrader: (6)

Thanks DBM I tried the Tamiya cups they seem to have taken up some of the slop in the front end.

I checked out the L10 knuckles, they look nice, but $26 is more than I want to spend.

I was able to tighten up the stock 12L knuckles a bit by adding a king pin shim to the screw that holds the axle into the knuckle.

tekin112000

iTrader: (6)

Can anyone give some guidance for setting pod sag and pod droop?

How much pod sag is recommended?

How much pod droop is recommended?

I can rotate the collar on the shock, is that the only way to change the shock length, or should I screw the ball end further on the shock shaft?

The instructions never mention the correct length of the shock or the correct rebound.

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

Pod sag - you can run 0~0.5 mm of sag. I usually run 0~0.2 mm.

Pod droop 1.0~1.5 mm

You'll have to adjust both the collar and ball end to achieve the desired pod sag and droop.

tekin112000

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Ed, I watched your video on the subject, as well as many others you have posted on youtube.

Not to dispute what you say, but those seem like very small numbers. To me .5mm is hardly any sag at all.

1/12 are very sensitive but I did not realize how sensitive, and how small the tolerances are

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

Glad you like my videos.

Remember, these are 1/12th scale cars. Every small detail matters, even down to 0.2 mm.

tekin112000

iTrader: (6)

There is slop in the knuckles, I can't figure out how to tighten them up.

I did replace the stock front wheel bearings with new ones from avid it seems like that has taken up a bit of slack in the wheel.

So, better but still a bit sloppy. So much so that I don't think getting a set up station would be worth it. Setting camber would be frustrating

celt

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys, need some help here.

Absolutely love this center shock. It's build and design quality is second to none in my opinion. Just can't seem to keep oil in in for the life of me. I studied the manual to make sure I've got the bits in the right orientation.

I've tried;

new o-rings
shimming behind the o-rings
green slime
venting cap
non-venting cap
soaking the o-rings

Really, really dig the shock, but it has to keep oil in it for more than one qualifier...