4LikesSchumacher SupaStox GT12 circuit racer
11-17-2014, 09:05 AM
#212
Tech Adept
I can't really comment on that. I'm involved with organising and running events for the class in the UK and developing/maintaining the rulebook, but my race class is 'proper' 1/12 scale. I don't drive GT12 regularly at the moment.
11-17-2014, 12:54 PM
#213
Tech Fanatic
The CF car will come into its own when the grip comes up. If you usually drive on a little0used carpet then the S1 car will be fine.
I think the choice is down to your driving skill and what you want to race. For new drivers at a club I would recommend the S1 car. Once it has been driven on a high-grip track and you can prove that you are losing out big time to a CF chassis, just buy the CF as an upgrade.
The most important item to a good-handling car is the diff, not the chassis. It's £30 in the UK for a diff, and I think the CF chassis is £35. Not sure what that would be in the US, but whichever way you go choose the diff first and the chassis second. HTH
11-18-2014, 01:02 PM
#215
Tech Fanatic
Get the 30g weight that attaches to the rear pod. It works a treat to balance the pod and leaves you with about 25g to play with in the chassis. 
11-18-2014, 02:20 PM
#216
11-19-2014, 09:20 PM
#220
11-19-2014, 09:30 PM
#221
The S1 chassis on the original SS was not a problem. With the new design of the GT there will be less tendency to grip-roll, so it's likely that the S1 car will be fine on club tracks with lower grip.
The CF car will come into its own when the grip comes up. If you usually drive on a little0used carpet then the S1 car will be fine.
I think the choice is down to your driving skill and what you want to race. For new drivers at a club I would recommend the S1 car. Once it has been driven on a high-grip track and you can prove that you are losing out big time to a CF chassis, just buy the CF as an upgrade.
The most important item to a good-handling car is the diff, not the chassis. It's £30 in the UK for a diff, and I think the CF chassis is £35. Not sure what that would be in the US, but whichever way you go choose the diff first and the chassis second. HTH
The CF car will come into its own when the grip comes up. If you usually drive on a little0used carpet then the S1 car will be fine.
I think the choice is down to your driving skill and what you want to race. For new drivers at a club I would recommend the S1 car. Once it has been driven on a high-grip track and you can prove that you are losing out big time to a CF chassis, just buy the CF as an upgrade.
The most important item to a good-handling car is the diff, not the chassis. It's £30 in the UK for a diff, and I think the CF chassis is £35. Not sure what that would be in the US, but whichever way you go choose the diff first and the chassis second. HTH
if i were to run one of these it would be for exhibition (nobody else has one yet that i know of) so the preferred behavior would be stable, controlled and fast enough to be interesting. stormer had the S1 w/diff in stock but now its out of stock and the CF w/o diff and diff upgrade are in stock. so
11-28-2014, 08:12 AM
#224
This is an original SupaStox with servo mount holes drilled in the GT most forward location, so they match. Then I thought what about a low profile horizontal mount. I had a nice micro servo and some mini mounting plates and FGX servo mounts. Imagine what this would look like with a proper low profile servo and some nice Exotek F1R2 servo mounts. There is now enough open real estate to mount the ESC any way you want.
I inverted the ball studs on the steering arms and the servo saver. I also moved the ballstuds to the outer holes removed the spacers from the servo saver. The arms are now parallel to the ground under load and angled slightly forward for Ackerman. No binding to be found.
***If you did this with an actual low profile servo, you will need to drill 2 new holes or add shims under the servo tabs to fit a mini servo, about 5mm for JR3650 my 12th scale servo of choice. The servo in the picture is an experimental unit I thought might be strong enough for this chassis: Turnigy 210.
I inverted the ball studs on the steering arms and the servo saver. I also moved the ballstuds to the outer holes removed the spacers from the servo saver. The arms are now parallel to the ground under load and angled slightly forward for Ackerman. No binding to be found.
***If you did this with an actual low profile servo, you will need to drill 2 new holes or add shims under the servo tabs to fit a mini servo, about 5mm for JR3650 my 12th scale servo of choice. The servo in the picture is an experimental unit I thought might be strong enough for this chassis: Turnigy 210.
Last edited by liljohn1064; 11-28-2014 at 08:54 AM.