boxhead

iTrader: (1)

At the end of the year I will be looking at changing racing class, I will at the same time buy new Rx/Tx, new servos, new batteries and any other associated parts.

I currently run in 1/8 gas buggy and will switch to Gas Truggy.

I am keen on the MBX6T and see there are two versions (one assembled and one kit) my preferance is toward the kit as it gives me a chance to learn how it is put together.
Does the kit version come with the same parts as the assembeld version?
Do you get rims and tyres with the kit version as it appears the assembled one does not have wheels?
What rims do you need to run? Offset?

I will most likely buy the Ko Propo Tx/Rx and from what I have read it can be used with un regulated LiPo batteries?
Also from what I have read I am leaning toward the Savox servos, and these too can be run LiPo unregulated?
So what LiPo battery should I be looking at for the MBX6T?

I have a swallow LiPo charger (I bought a second hand starter box that had a LiPo battery supplied so I bought a charger to suit), I have a lead to connect multiple type plugs (Squid) and the charger has a balance bar.

I want to buy all new as I will be selling off all my old stuff cheaply to try and get some new members racing in our club.

If there is any "upgrade" parts I should get then please advise, ie engine mounts, servo horns etc.

brandundecided

iTrader: (9)

If you are going to get the Mugen then go with the preassembled mspec.

NitroXray80809

iTrader: (24)

Mspec is the way to go its basically a prebuilt kit with a great setup. no reson to waste the time bulding a kit.

ecpete

iTrader: (39)

I used the Protek 2300mah Lipo Receiver Battery(flat pack) with 7955 Hitec Servo's unregulated. The Radio I use is the Sanwa M11x. The 6T doesn't need much for upgrades, IMO I'd buy Aluminum Servo Horns, boil the Suspension arms, buy a High Downforce Wing and start racing. The truck uses 0 offset wheels.

boxhead

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so it looks like the M spec is the recomended version.
0 offest wheels.
Thanks for the advise on battery (flatpack) as I was not 100% sure if it was flat or hump.
Does the M spec body come with a wrap fitted or is teh wrap supplied?
I would prefer to paint the body so am wondering if I should order a second body?
If I need to get a second body, what suppliers are there and what looks good (not like a sperm)
Also you mentioned a high downfoce wing, who makes these?

boxhead

iTrader: (1)

Oh, what do they run then?

Jomo918

iTrader: (9)

Why boil the a arms? Does this make them less prone to breakage?

kja812

iTrader: (3)

Somewhat...I watched 2 Mugen boys break 3 or 4 arms the other Sunday just practicing. Looks like its the only weak part on the truck.

Jomo918

iTrader: (9)

That's cool if it actually works! I wonder if it would work on all brands arms? This is the first I've ever heard of this trick and I've been in the hobby for about 8 years. I guess u learn new thi gs everyday

MalicousIntent

iTrader: (1)

What boiling does is actually softens the plastic making more flexible. however, some designs are strong enuff not to need this possible flex. However more flex tends be have sloppier control. etc.. But better to bend than to break.

ecpete

iTrader: (39)

My M Spec did not come with any body wraps and is not painted..just a precut body with window masks. The Proline Body ''Bulldog" and J Concepts "Punisher" Body both are very nice. VP Pro, Proline and J Concepts all sell their version of the High Down Force Wings.

ecpete

iTrader: (39)

I was breaking the rear lower control arms at the droop screw. After I got a new set of arms, I boiled them and the breakage stopped. It softens the plastic.

Jomo918

iTrader: (9)

That makes sense! No need to do it on my HB arms then!

jmaxey51

iTrader: (7)

they run 0 offset wheels.... also mugen has "updated" arms and i havent seen them break like they used too, seem to have fixed the problem, they are the same part number so if you break a arm youll get the new ones, you will have to re-set your droop because the new ones seem to not droop as much, its easy to do though. also another reason why they broke was because people would tighten the screw that holds the shocks to the arm to tight squeezing the arms making a weak point.

boxhead

iTrader: (1)

Thank you all very very much for the info.
I had heard about boiling the arms.