SteveP

You don't have to change your car for this purpose - just have fun and let me know what you think works best for your car. I would suggest removing the aluminum arms anyway just for performance reasons, but don't feel the need to take them off for this reason.

C-Trickle

iTrader: (2)

+1,000,000

Unnecessary aluminum suspension parts = more weight and more breakage/bending/shearing off bolts.

Kyosho has great plastics. The only thing that would be considered an upgrade would be if we could get nylon parts. If it ain't broke don't fix it, and if it is broke replace it with stock.

VexVegaz

my main purpose in putting those aluminum a-arms was to tame down that lrp .30, but with the higher gearing, i no longer need to do that. Im not a fan of bling parts unless the car is a shelf queen.

SteveP

The LOW/HIGH and A/B blocks are made to give us an option to adjust the angle of the front hinge pins to change the arm angle. This is referred to as anti-dive in correct terms. The best option for a road car is to reduce the arm angle by installing the high mount for the upper arms, and the "B" block below, you're essentially increasing anti-dive by two-degrees. This is more appropriate for a car racing on asphalt.

therealdede

jesus, that looks factory its so clean.

C-Trickle

iTrader: (2)

Just what I needed to know.

So with the high mount block can you put the front upper hinge pin through the lower hole in the shock tower?

SteveP

Which front end are you using? 777 or 7.5?

C-Trickle

iTrader: (2)

I havea GT1 on a Route 246 chassis. Shouldn't putting the upper hinge pin in the lower hole take some caster out?

SteveP

Not really. The front end is designed as a complete system. When you change the lower suspension mount to the "B" block from the "A" block, you reduce the angle of the arms, but you also reduce caster. If you were just wanting to change the arm angle without changing caster, you could install the optional C hubs and keep caster angle the same. Now, when you change the angle of the lower arms, you also have to change the angle of the upper arms, otherwise the upper and lower arms are pivoting on a different arc or plane than the lower arm. So, when you adjust the bottom, you adjust the top.

Vision

iTrader: (41)

SteveP, for a high speed (70+mph) asphalt oval track with lots of bumps, which block would you suggest ?. Thanks.

SteveP

I would still run with the "B" and "H" blocks and 20-degree hubs - basically the least amount of caster possible.

Vision

iTrader: (41)

Wouldn't the optional B blocks improve turn in, but at the cost of straight line stability ?.

SteveP

No. You can't use conventional set-up information that assumes you're within the proper range already. These cars use geometry that's optimized for an off-road buggy, so it's running excessive amounts of camber already, and the arm angle is much higher than normal.

C-Trickle

iTrader: (2)

Ok, I'll bite. I'm curious to hear your basic set up.

SteveP

My car is in a million pieces, but I think I recall everything that I've done to it.

4 gear diffs front and rear, 3.0 front stabilizer, 2.8 rear, TRW105 shocks with the IGW silver springs in the front, black in the rear (not stock, but black IGW spring). The front shocks are running 1200 Kyosho oil, and the rear 1000. The front diff is at 50K and the rear at 3K. In the front I'm running the H/B blocks for minimum caster, and I'm in the process of fitting some MP9 hub carriers and knuckles to reduce caster even further. In the rear, I run the upper camber link in the lower hole on the shock tower. The roll center geometry works better for me with the camber link in the lowest hole. I hpoe I got most of it covered, but I'm always trying new things because that's what makes me tick.