Losi 8ight building and setup
#1561
Originally Posted by Buggy Master
well i read that you need to break them in. when i installed mines, i didn't like the feel. it felt noticably tighter. that was 1 tko inside and stock o-ring outside. my next race is this weekend and i don't have time to run the buggy to break them in so i went back to the stock o-rings. i did install a thin traxxas teflon washer to squeeze the stock o-rings a little more and they feel just right. i'll find out if they leak this weekend. this is just my personal experience. tko has great products.
#1563
Tech Regular
I am guessing the onpower push mid and out of corner is common for most. Which I think maybe including myself are using the basic setup with some changes.
Has anyone tried lighter swaybar in front with basic setup? Maybe stiffer rear swaybar?
Has anyone tried lighter swaybar in front with basic setup? Maybe stiffer rear swaybar?
#1564
Originally Posted by tex1
Hey Carl,
Brian Jefferson joined the Losi team. He is building his tonight. Have you taken your out yet? Are still iced in?
I'll be at the shop tomorrow. Give us a call.
TEX
BTW - I used a Traxxas 5mm Id shim in my shocks and they do not leak any more.
Brian Jefferson joined the Losi team. He is building his tonight. Have you taken your out yet? Are still iced in?
I'll be at the shop tomorrow. Give us a call.
TEX
BTW - I used a Traxxas 5mm Id shim in my shocks and they do not leak any more.
#1565
, Ok but let us know if it works
#1567
Tech Adept
for those using the traxxas teflon shims, are you gluing it to the spacer or just putting it inside and letting it "freefloat" on the orings.
thanks.
thanks.
#1568
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
My shim is metal. I used this one because it can not rub the shafts and it is thinner than the teflon shims. When you get it in the compression of the rings seem just right.
I put them in the bottom of the hole and just let them free float.
Ideal would be have a 4.5mm ID and an OD that is barely under the ID of the shock body. I would make it plastic at .1 - .15 & .2mm thick. ???? Hummm...
<-- needs to work on this!
I'll keep you guys updated.
TEX
I put them in the bottom of the hole and just let them free float.
Ideal would be have a 4.5mm ID and an OD that is barely under the ID of the shock body. I would make it plastic at .1 - .15 & .2mm thick. ???? Hummm...
<-- needs to work on this!
I'll keep you guys updated.
TEX
#1569
Tech Master
iTrader: (37)
Originally Posted by xxxtracer
for those using the traxxas teflon shims, are you gluing it to the spacer or just putting it inside and letting it "freefloat" on the orings.
thanks.
thanks.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJJ88&P=ML
i didnt' glue it, just free float. just passing on a tip i read on the grid.
#1570
Originally Posted by kyracer
I am guessing the onpower push mid and out of corner is common for most. Which I think maybe including myself are using the basic setup with some changes.
Has anyone tried lighter swaybar in front with basic setup? Maybe stiffer rear swaybar?
Has anyone tried lighter swaybar in front with basic setup? Maybe stiffer rear swaybar?
#1571
Will a standard metal servo steering horn work for this car?
FYI, Tko Competition has shock o-ring's back in stock.
FYI, Tko Competition has shock o-ring's back in stock.
Last edited by freefallmarine; 01-26-2007 at 01:55 PM.
#1572
Originally Posted by freefallmarine
Will a standard metal servo steering horn work for this car?
FYI, Tko Competition has shock o-ring's back in stock.
FYI, Tko Competition has shock o-ring's back in stock.
#1573
Anybody have a back-to-back comparison of the aluminum and plastic chassis braces? I gonna try tomorrow at ARC. Just looking for others feedback.
#1574
Originally Posted by SupermaxxRich
YES
#1575
You'll love the V Spec! I have the EB Mod Version but the stocker is an animal as well!!! JP-3 will give slightly more top end and a little less bottom end than my 2050 pipe.