167LikesTamiya XV-01
03-11-2017, 10:33 AM
#1381
The difference between the TC and XV suspension holders are width and height of suspension pins. Eg narrow track width and higher roll centre for XV. So if you add spacers underneath the TC suspension holders it will raise the arms and then allow the arms to drop further.
03-11-2017, 11:48 AM
#1382
Tech Addict
This is true, I might try this for even more lift. But also at the a-arms and hub/caster blocks there is some plastic that significantly limits down travel. Basically the caster block cannot pivot past a certain angle because of the way the front short reversible arms is molded. I took a file or dremel and removed 2-3mm in the "U" area, which gave me almost 5mm+ more of down travel.
I had converted my car from rally xv-01 and bought TC arms, arm mounts, castor, and steering blocks from an on road setup. The xv-01 TC may have come with different arms which don't have this extra molding I speak of.
In any case you really don't need more than 15mm of ride height. But when I converted, I only had like 9mm so I did the shave to get back to rally ride heights.
I had converted my car from rally xv-01 and bought TC arms, arm mounts, castor, and steering blocks from an on road setup. The xv-01 TC may have come with different arms which don't have this extra molding I speak of.
In any case you really don't need more than 15mm of ride height. But when I converted, I only had like 9mm so I did the shave to get back to rally ride heights.
There is another option instead of shaving. That would be to add spacers underneath the suspension holders.
The difference between the TC and XV suspension holders are width and height of suspension pins. Eg narrow track width and higher roll centre for XV. So if you add spacers underneath the TC suspension holders it will raise the arms and then allow the arms to drop further.
The difference between the TC and XV suspension holders are width and height of suspension pins. Eg narrow track width and higher roll centre for XV. So if you add spacers underneath the TC suspension holders it will raise the arms and then allow the arms to drop further.
03-11-2017, 07:15 PM
#1383
Tech Addict
In case anyone is having on power oversteer, aka spinning out while accelerating out of corners, I've found that running the rear diff as loose as possible (little or ultra light diff fluid) really helps keep the car from spinning out. Even with a lot of punch on your ESC, a loose rear diff allows the inner wheel to soak up some of the extra power in the form of wheel spin, keeping the outside rear tire from losing itself.
I've come to this realization only after all of the stock diff fluid has finally leaked out. The car handles way better than it did with a freshly packed rear diff.
As for the front, the thick 60k fluid is also slowly leaking out. The looser the front diff gets, it easier the car is to drive too. I will repack the front diff at some point to see the effects.
I've come to this realization only after all of the stock diff fluid has finally leaked out. The car handles way better than it did with a freshly packed rear diff.
As for the front, the thick 60k fluid is also slowly leaking out. The looser the front diff gets, it easier the car is to drive too. I will repack the front diff at some point to see the effects.
03-12-2017, 06:00 AM
#1384
Yeah, I never used oil that thick. I have 30k in the front and 10k in the rear on my 4WD rally car, 30k in the front and 5k in the rear on my part-time-4WD road car, and a spool in front and a ball diff in rear on my rear-motor road car.
Are you still using the stock plastic side-plates on the diffs, or have you upgraded to the aluminum side-plates? The aluminum ones flex less and therefore also leak less.
Are you still using the stock plastic side-plates on the diffs, or have you upgraded to the aluminum side-plates? The aluminum ones flex less and therefore also leak less.
03-31-2017, 04:02 PM
#1385
Tech Addict
Today I took the XV-01 to one of the the Los Angeles Olympic stadium parking lots. That lot is mega busted up with marble sized rocks here and there. The ground is uneven. It's basically the perfect rally location being a gigantic open space.
The car handled pretty good except for the random patches of sand and rocks where it slid a little. Suspension could have used 5mm more ground clearance. And the body could have been raised a little more.
The shred session basically consisted of full throttle hitting uneven patches sending the car flying forward for a couple feet then landing and doing it all over again. Body scrapes where the car would bottom out when it hit hard upward slopes of pavement. Turing with turbo on proved to be exciting. Power slides around corners sometimes through gravel were a little sketchy but the 4wd handled predictably.
The most vertical air had was about 1foot. The furthest jump was around 4 feet. Basically the rc version of rally cars flying over rolling roads. Although it was a short session, it showed me that the car needs some fenders to keep the rocks in chassis to a minimum. And more ride height to handle the unkept pavement.
This car always puts a smile on my face.
Rally to the max.
The car handled pretty good except for the random patches of sand and rocks where it slid a little. Suspension could have used 5mm more ground clearance. And the body could have been raised a little more.
The shred session basically consisted of full throttle hitting uneven patches sending the car flying forward for a couple feet then landing and doing it all over again. Body scrapes where the car would bottom out when it hit hard upward slopes of pavement. Turing with turbo on proved to be exciting. Power slides around corners sometimes through gravel were a little sketchy but the 4wd handled predictably.
The most vertical air had was about 1foot. The furthest jump was around 4 feet. Basically the rc version of rally cars flying over rolling roads. Although it was a short session, it showed me that the car needs some fenders to keep the rocks in chassis to a minimum. And more ride height to handle the unkept pavement.
This car always puts a smile on my face.
Rally to the max.
04-01-2017, 08:03 PM
#1387
Tech Addict
Oh this is a really nice solution! Thanks for sharing!! It's much better than the fenders that come with the car. Much more coverage and lighter!! I have a bunch of left over lexan from bodies and I guess you can always use a salad container or any kind of lexan like packaging.
04-01-2017, 08:05 PM
#1389
Tech Addict
Are those custom made shock towers? And longer dampers?
04-01-2017, 08:17 PM
#1390
They are the towers that came on the xv01 long damper spec. The shocks are tamiya front buggy shocks from the trf201 or trf501 kits. I got them from the tamiya website on sale, but I had to buy individual parts, such as the bodies and internals and plastics separately, and assembly them as if they were a "full shock kit". only downfall is I have 4 leftover long rear shock bodies and springs sitting in the parts bin, but it was still much cheaper than buying two full sets just for the fronts though.
but... any tamiya front buggy length shocks work.
in the 2nd pic it looks like the front shock on the drivers side is rubbing, but it isnt. Its close, everything is pretty cozy in there, but no clearance issues.
but... any tamiya front buggy length shocks work.
in the 2nd pic it looks like the front shock on the drivers side is rubbing, but it isnt. Its close, everything is pretty cozy in there, but no clearance issues.
04-05-2017, 08:34 AM
#1391
Phew, finally finished reading the thread.
After having a little hiatus from RC for about 3+ years, a few mates of mine decided to take it up and get into it, buggies at first then on roaders.
So after a while I decided to take it up again myself, only I've never really like on road RC.
I've had a Colt 10EP (junk), a HaiboXing/Tamiya TL-01 knock off and finally a 3 Racing Sakura Zero S, none of them held my interest long enough to really get into them.
Although I did like the idea of the mini chassis (still wouldn't mind getting an M-06).
So with not really wanting to get an on roader, I picked up my XV-01 kit a couple of weeks ago as a compromise.
Kit didn't go together as smoothly as I expected, missing screws (well wrong length) and to me, a strange way of the bags being organised (first Tamiya I've built/owned).
But raiding my spares was enough to get it together.
I'm running a Viper VTX BE (are Viper still a thing?) with a Trackstar 10.5T and a Savox 1268 for steering duties.
All controlled by an FrSky 4ch receiver with my Ko Propo Helios (with FrSky DIY module).
I am using 12ga wire at the moment but it seems a bit too chunky so I have some 14ga on the way to swap it for.
I must say I was still a little unsure of it even when I did have it all together, but within just a couple of minutes I was glad I had bought it.
I'd say it's the 3rd most enjoyable RC I've had.
The first being Ofna Nexx 10 SC, followed by a Mugen MBX5T-E with a 1600kv 4082 on 6s.
Now the Mugen is just outright insanely mental but the Ofna handled more realistically with the body roll and sliding around, it was heaps of fun to race (I never bashed it), I still own the Mugen and it's only ever been a basher in my ownership.
Anyways, onwards to the XV.
The only thing I did differently to to the book was putting the long shock rod ends on.
Ran it for half a dozen charges and it was thoroughly enjoyable, much more stable than I expected, no traction rolling (probably due to tyres).
A couple of days ago I pulled the diffs out, put 30k in the front and 10-15 in the rear (mixed 20k with 10k), and now it's even more fun, looks a lot like an actual miniature rally car that requires similar techniques (which quite surprised me).
Also on the topic of diffs and them leaking, mine did not leak out of the diff cups but got through the O-ring (which I'll replace with better ones eventually).
I did sand the cups down on a piece of glass to get them nice and flat as they were anything but!
Otherwise, all I've done is reset the camber/toe as it had way too much negative camber, the fronts had coned after 3 packs (all using turnbuckle lengths out of the book).
I'm now running 1.5 degrees in the front (from 3), 1 in the rear (from 3.5) and somewhere close to 0 toe on the front (at a guess it had about 2-3 degrees toe out, was still stable though).
I'm also running no preload on the shocks, was looking for a bit more droop.
I'm about due for another set of tyres after roasting the Tamiya rally blocks already, just gonna stick with cheap tyres.
I do have a list of hopups I want to get though.
Long damper stays
CC-01 alloy dampers #54541
Reinforced belt
Yeah Racing toe blocks
Yeah Racing front CVD (figure the rear should be perfectly fine as is for bashing about)
Sway bars
And a few plastic spares.
I initially didn't want to go with Yeah Racing parts as I had a set of their shocks years ago which were utter garbage but it seems they've improved a lot.
I've yet to order them though, when I looked on RCMart the Tamiya equivalents were out of stock (in stock now I think though).
I also noticed the Yeah Racing seperate toe blocks have a full beveled back edge, I'm hoping this may help with the steering links hanging up on them, last thing I want to do is by nice Tamiya alloy bits only to grind them away.
I'm still a little uncertain about the CC-01 shocks, I've gathered they're 70mm long, I'm assuming they have a decent amount of travel (unlike the Gmade option it seems).
What I'd like is more up travel and down travel.
I'd like for the chassis to bottom out before the shock and a couple more mm of droop would be great.
I'm looking at the TRF201 front spring set to go with them (or maybe the Associated set).
I do like the idea of getting big bores but I can't justify the $100+ price tag (although I already have the springs).
I'm also in two minds about the slipper clutch, I was disappointing the kit didn't come with one, seeing it's targeted at off road use as well.
I'll be using mine both on and off road but I think my desire of having a slipper is coming from my days of racing 1/10 buggies and trucks.
I had it on the list as a must but now I'm not sure if it actually is.
The main purpose I wanted it for was to prolong the drive line.
If I don't get one, I'll order a 48p spur along with the alloy mount.
I must also say, I'm surprised how well it runs on grass, gravel is a bit average as expected (hopefully improved with the long damper setup) but it's quite impressive.
Small stones do easily get caught in the steering though.
Speaking of steering, I removed the servo saver and fitted a solid horn, handles a bit better too as I noticed the saver would let go when turning hard on tarmac (have a local track to play on).
I'm not gonna mess with modding the chassis or anything until I have the hopups installed.
It would be nice if the chassis had a bit more adjustability built in though.
After having a little hiatus from RC for about 3+ years, a few mates of mine decided to take it up and get into it, buggies at first then on roaders.
So after a while I decided to take it up again myself, only I've never really like on road RC.
I've had a Colt 10EP (junk), a HaiboXing/Tamiya TL-01 knock off and finally a 3 Racing Sakura Zero S, none of them held my interest long enough to really get into them.
Although I did like the idea of the mini chassis (still wouldn't mind getting an M-06).
So with not really wanting to get an on roader, I picked up my XV-01 kit a couple of weeks ago as a compromise.
Kit didn't go together as smoothly as I expected, missing screws (well wrong length) and to me, a strange way of the bags being organised (first Tamiya I've built/owned).
But raiding my spares was enough to get it together.
I'm running a Viper VTX BE (are Viper still a thing?) with a Trackstar 10.5T and a Savox 1268 for steering duties.
All controlled by an FrSky 4ch receiver with my Ko Propo Helios (with FrSky DIY module).
I am using 12ga wire at the moment but it seems a bit too chunky so I have some 14ga on the way to swap it for.
I must say I was still a little unsure of it even when I did have it all together, but within just a couple of minutes I was glad I had bought it.
I'd say it's the 3rd most enjoyable RC I've had.
The first being Ofna Nexx 10 SC, followed by a Mugen MBX5T-E with a 1600kv 4082 on 6s.
Now the Mugen is just outright insanely mental but the Ofna handled more realistically with the body roll and sliding around, it was heaps of fun to race (I never bashed it), I still own the Mugen and it's only ever been a basher in my ownership.
Anyways, onwards to the XV.
The only thing I did differently to to the book was putting the long shock rod ends on.
Ran it for half a dozen charges and it was thoroughly enjoyable, much more stable than I expected, no traction rolling (probably due to tyres).
A couple of days ago I pulled the diffs out, put 30k in the front and 10-15 in the rear (mixed 20k with 10k), and now it's even more fun, looks a lot like an actual miniature rally car that requires similar techniques (which quite surprised me).
Also on the topic of diffs and them leaking, mine did not leak out of the diff cups but got through the O-ring (which I'll replace with better ones eventually).
I did sand the cups down on a piece of glass to get them nice and flat as they were anything but!
Otherwise, all I've done is reset the camber/toe as it had way too much negative camber, the fronts had coned after 3 packs (all using turnbuckle lengths out of the book).
I'm now running 1.5 degrees in the front (from 3), 1 in the rear (from 3.5) and somewhere close to 0 toe on the front (at a guess it had about 2-3 degrees toe out, was still stable though).
I'm also running no preload on the shocks, was looking for a bit more droop.
I'm about due for another set of tyres after roasting the Tamiya rally blocks already, just gonna stick with cheap tyres.
I do have a list of hopups I want to get though.
Long damper stays
CC-01 alloy dampers #54541
Reinforced belt
Yeah Racing toe blocks
Yeah Racing front CVD (figure the rear should be perfectly fine as is for bashing about)
Sway bars
And a few plastic spares.
I initially didn't want to go with Yeah Racing parts as I had a set of their shocks years ago which were utter garbage but it seems they've improved a lot.
I've yet to order them though, when I looked on RCMart the Tamiya equivalents were out of stock (in stock now I think though).
I also noticed the Yeah Racing seperate toe blocks have a full beveled back edge, I'm hoping this may help with the steering links hanging up on them, last thing I want to do is by nice Tamiya alloy bits only to grind them away.
I'm still a little uncertain about the CC-01 shocks, I've gathered they're 70mm long, I'm assuming they have a decent amount of travel (unlike the Gmade option it seems).
What I'd like is more up travel and down travel.
I'd like for the chassis to bottom out before the shock and a couple more mm of droop would be great.
I'm looking at the TRF201 front spring set to go with them (or maybe the Associated set).
I do like the idea of getting big bores but I can't justify the $100+ price tag (although I already have the springs).
I'm also in two minds about the slipper clutch, I was disappointing the kit didn't come with one, seeing it's targeted at off road use as well.
I'll be using mine both on and off road but I think my desire of having a slipper is coming from my days of racing 1/10 buggies and trucks.
I had it on the list as a must but now I'm not sure if it actually is.
The main purpose I wanted it for was to prolong the drive line.
If I don't get one, I'll order a 48p spur along with the alloy mount.
I must also say, I'm surprised how well it runs on grass, gravel is a bit average as expected (hopefully improved with the long damper setup) but it's quite impressive.
Small stones do easily get caught in the steering though.
Speaking of steering, I removed the servo saver and fitted a solid horn, handles a bit better too as I noticed the saver would let go when turning hard on tarmac (have a local track to play on).
I'm not gonna mess with modding the chassis or anything until I have the hopups installed.
It would be nice if the chassis had a bit more adjustability built in though.
04-05-2017, 04:54 PM
#1393
https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/ind...comment=514987
Length wise, I was going from that post.
However I didn't realise it had the long rod end on it
The shock is probably closer to 65mm.
But it appears they're the same length as the CVA shocks with maybe a fraction more travel.
I'm wanting 70+mm with the short rod end.
Going to have to find some front buggy shocks then.
04-06-2017, 03:55 AM
#1394
One thing to look out for is front downtravel. The arms can drop pretty far but you will need to shave the chassis and for blocks to achieve max travel the arms will allow. I chose to not shave anything and use droop screws to stop anything binding up while turning.