PizzaDude

Hawker,

I like the headlights on you body.
How did you do that?

Pizza

hawker

pizza,

the headlights are just the stickers that came with body, though in the picture that don't look like stickers lol.

madjack

iTrader: (28)

more testing today...ran the car with 2mm rear roll center raised & the front flat. The car was good, but I'm still looking for more mid corner speed. (Guess I'm missing the double one-ways from my 414M at this point)

& yes, brushed a board and stripped another front one-way gear. (can you say "Tamiya you needs to release a harder material for your diff gears!")


http://groups.yahoo.com/group/tamiyatrf/

itchynads

Yeh had some back luck as well today Chewed up another front gear!

Either the diff and bevel gear meshing is not right or the plastic diff gear is way too weak to handle a gentle nudge on the front!
My bet is on the diff gear being made of weak plastic.

My other shaft drive (Alex Barracuda) never had any problems handling impacts so I suspect that there is a design issue which Tamiya need to look into.

My verdict is that this car is not for the beginner but aimed at those that can drive an entire race without bumping into anything.

The slightest bump and you will have to replace the front diff gear.

For now I'm tossing up between shelving the car or trying again with a ball diff up front to see if it makes any difference.

This is a pity because the car (when the diff gear is intact) handles like a dream and performs even better than ANY car I have ever driven.

But there is no point to having the best performing car if you cannot finish a race. So here's to hoping I can find a solution to this problem. Maybe some spacers under the front bevel gear may help to mesh the gears tighter.

black-knight

i've had 1 or 2 frontal crashes with my, at speed with a mod motor, both times i've had no issue. both of these crashes were in practice...i never crash in a race

when we use to have a local indoor carpet track here in sydney alot of us ran TC3's one big "no no" was to run a front oneway, 1 crash and the outdrives or uni's would break, so i'm not surprised that the TB Evo has a similar issue.

don't give up on the car, it has many other advantages, give it a go without the front oneway like u mentioned.

btw: itchynads would you be kind enough to post what sort of setup you have been running? i.e shock springs, oil, position etc

thx

Daf

Itchy,
I take it this was at Hoppers where you did the front gear - I heard that there were many other cars that finished the day not running today after meeting the boards.

I have been running the Evo 3 at Templestowe after the debut(not too successful - driver to blame!) at the summer Nats and after doing one gear at the S/N due to the Tamiya threadlock backing out I have not had a problem since and I have given a few boards a few nudges (and had one monumental!). I think that it is like most race cars - given the right type of impact and something will break (better a gear than a uni or oneway!)- other types of impacts and the car survives. There is no black box onboard to workout why either!

I think it is like most shaft drive cars with no give in the drive train (a belt will give ever so slightly) that if the mesh is not right then the teeth will let go in an impact - I have had it happen on a predator, TC3, and other strange gearboxes, all when the screws backed out and let the mesh open up.

Don't give up on the car, it is just too good for that.

PS Sorry I wont be able to see you at Hoppers - I have another Race meet on the Sunday

black-knight

Ive been searching high an low on the net for TB Evo III stuff and i found this Jap site with english translations etc. They discuss build up tricks and tips for the TB Evo III. well worth a look.

They also make mention that the some of the early batches of the evo had too much back lash in the diff housing....might be worth picking up same newer batched housings????

http://nifty.amikai.com/AmiWeb?ami_u...133&ami_nojava

itchynads

Guys, I'm gonna stick with the Evo3, like Daf said it is a good car. I know that since I managed to get it pretty much dialled towards the end of the day....more so than ANY other car I have ever owned. But I guess nothing is perfect.

Just dissapointed that the high risk (for me anyway) of a gear failure may end up costing me.

I'll take a look at the site BK posted for some hints. BTW I also bought a spare diff case a few days ago so I'll give that a try as well.

BK: The setup I was running which I found to suit the Hoppers Indoor track:

front: blue springs, 60wt oil
rear: yellow springs, 60 wt oil
Shock positions (F/R): Kit settings
Motor: Fantom P2K2 w/stock springs red/green
Gearing: 96/34 (7.34)
Droop: No idea cos I forgot to measure
Rear toe: -2 degrees
Front toe: 0 degree
Rear blocks: AA
Front blocks: Kit setting

I also did the 2mm roll centre spacer mod on both the rear blocks and it worked a charm Loads of steering which is what you need on a tight track.

The track was really dusty at the start but it got better towards the end when the dust was kicked off the racing lines.

itchynads

Can you repost that link BK??? Doesn't seem to work for me

black-knight

hmm try this:

http://nifty.amikai.com/amiweb/brows...ang=JA&t_dis=3

then scroll the left menu down until you see it mention: TB Evolution III: NEW (click on this link!)

itchynads

Thanks. I've checked my diff housing and it looks ok. No gaps between the bearings.

I've replaced my broken diff gear and put the one way back in for another run this weekend. I've also packed it with ceramic grease, something which I did not do before, not sure if this will help but worth a shot. Will report back after the run this weekend on how it went.

izzyracer

iTrader: (27)

Hey guys! concerning the bevel gear probs. I have an indirect solution. I ran my car yesterday and did have 2 major mishaps. But my car stayed true including the front bevel gears not stripping. My indirect solution is to ad another bumper, preferrably from the TA04. I think the TB EVO's bumper is to thin to protect the front end.

Aluma

iTrader: (1)

okay...so i read that article....sort of....

put two spacers under the ballend of the steering mech. and put it on the edge hole of the servo saver.
make sure the bearing is fully supported in the gear box by making it tighter?
yellow springs front/ red back
0ne O ring in each shock instead of the red foamy thing
remove battery holder and use glass tape
run one battery wire over and one under the top deck
no grub screws to hold the sway bars
yellow front sway(adjuster 1-2mm in)/red back(all to the end)
something about a spacer for the diff joints?
6mm ride height
get smaller outer servo mount
dont replace all screws with titanium
get titanium turnbuckles for weight savings
use the smaller included spur
30/40wt front/rear



did i miss something?

itchynads

I was thinking along the same lines as well The bumper is thin as well as hard so it doesn't absorb the impact very welll.

I'm thinking of getting a wide TC3 bumper to replace the Tamiya bumper. Not sure how much effort it would require to make it fit but if it does work may be worth it.

futureal

Once again, anybody have Jun's setup from this past January's Novak US TC Champs Race in Milwaukee?