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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 07-02-2014, 09:37 AM
  #11626  
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I really only want the wings mounts!

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
are the hexes a different offset than stock?
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Old 07-02-2014, 09:50 AM
  #11627  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
axle crush tubes & wing mounts are the only parts I believe Ae has made a running change with thus far.
What was updated on the wing mounts?
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Old 07-02-2014, 09:57 AM
  #11628  
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Improved space or a longer mount for the wing & body clip...
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Old 07-02-2014, 03:42 PM
  #11629  
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Originally Posted by bambambennett
Less anti squat enables the rear of the car to absorb the bumps easier but you can lose some on power exit steering from this due to weight transferring more to the rear when the rear settles in more on acceleration.

Silly question, are you running closed or open cell foams? Reason I ask is because I find when running on a rough track with well used open cell foams the rear becomes unpredictable from sidewall fold and snap.
I am running on open cell foams front and rear.
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Old 07-02-2014, 03:51 PM
  #11630  
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Originally Posted by Nemaris
I wanted to ask how many of you are using the clamping front hexes & axles? Also is anybody else experiencing a not so smooth gritty movement in the front axles? I tried the fix that was posted on b5 nation a while ago involving the traxxas spacers to no avail.
I'm running them. They work great. Nice to not have to worry about axles falling off.

Bearings- 1st set died on me with the old steel axles

Got some new bearings from advantage hobby those are holding up great.

Also got some schelle bearings to try shortly.
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:15 PM
  #11631  
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noob question. How do you guys measure camber? I have a slight amount of toe-out which a local driver recommended. Do you measure with the wheels set to make the car go straight despite them being slightly outwards, or do you center up each wheel individually and then measure? Thanks.
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:25 PM
  #11632  
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Turn you car on and let the servo center. Drop your car from about 10 in up and let suspension settle. Then measure with a camber guage
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:48 PM
  #11633  
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So if your going run the D4 I had to rotate the endbell so to mount the motor screws. Just FYI
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Old 07-03-2014, 07:57 AM
  #11634  
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Originally Posted by vr6cj
So if your going run the D4 I had to rotate the endbell so to mount the motor screws. Just FYI

had to do that on the d3.5. nothing new.
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Old 07-03-2014, 07:58 AM
  #11635  
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Originally Posted by scythe23
Turn you car on and let the servo center. Drop your car from about 10 in up and let suspension settle. Then measure with a camber guage
and to take into account the slop/slightly deformed wheels and tires, rotate them a quarter turn and check again. rinse, repeat.
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Old 07-03-2014, 03:26 PM
  #11636  
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Originally Posted by Mason
and to take into account the slop/slightly deformed wheels and tires, rotate them a quarter turn and check again. rinse, repeat.
You can also bolt on a set of rims with no tire glued on to make it easier to read
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Old 07-03-2014, 03:52 PM
  #11637  
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Originally Posted by hcopp
noob question. How do you guys measure camber? I have a slight amount of toe-out which a local driver recommended. Do you measure with the wheels set to make the car go straight despite them being slightly outwards, or do you center up each wheel individually and then measure? Thanks.
you should always set your camber with the wheel straight in the front. If you are running toe out you should center the wheel and set it. This is common practice in 1/8th as sometimes you run a large amount of toe out. Youll get 15 different answers on this, but this is the correct way.
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Old 07-03-2014, 04:02 PM
  #11638  
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iam back online need wire and I be running esc hook up and mortor
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Old 07-03-2014, 05:48 PM
  #11639  
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Went out for the maiden voyage last night. It's been about 10 years since I held a radio so I am definitely rusty. I have a question where I know the right answer is wheel time but I am looking for a bit more. I was driving on the flat/practice track at my shop - rubber mat surface using the tires that the shop recommended as the hot ticket here. In high speed sweepers and at the end of the straight with a tight 180, both of those sections the buggy will swap ends. Not a snap spin, but like the rear loses grip, never regains it so the tail just keeps going and going. In a big car when this happens you give it throttle to plant the rear. I couldn't get that to work - not sure if I just wasn't fast enough to catch it. Is there anything in the setup I can do to increase the rear grip and settle it down? It's not an on-throttle oversteer - it starts when I lift throttle and steer in on a flat surface. Thank you!
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Old 07-03-2014, 06:46 PM
  #11640  
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Originally Posted by rc23
you should always set your camber with the wheel straight in the front. If you are running toe out you should center the wheel and set it. This is common practice in 1/8th as sometimes you run a large amount of toe out. Youll get 15 different answers on this, but this is the correct way.
Thanks!
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