NEW Team Magic E4RS II EVO
08-13-2013, 10:02 AM
#166
Team Magic
We will be ready to take parts orders soon get ready USA.
Cars are in stock ready to go!!!!
Cars are in stock ready to go!!!!
08-13-2013, 07:56 PM
#167
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (50)
Some build comments
I am at the final stages of building the Evo and I thought I would give my opinion. All in all the car has gone together pretty well. I did, however, run into a few issues. I am curious if others have the same and/or other issues with the build.
- Rear Diff Build
I had a slight issue with the outdrive bearing on one side of the diff. I could not get to seat all the way without having to sand down the plastic diff halve a little. Additionally (but I don't think this will cause a performance issue), When i spin diff on its bulkheads, both the bearing housing vibrate slightly. It is like the bearing aren't seating properly. I have tried re-seating them several times but they still move in and out a little.
- both front and rear outdrive blades.
They seem to be a little tight. When moving the drive train by hand you can see the axles moving due to them sticking on the out drives. this may clear out once it is run once or twice.
- Shock build
Trying to put the e-clips on shock shaft above the pistons was very difficult. It was almost like there wasn't enough room once you had the washer and pistons on the shock shafts. I eventually got them on (after widening the a little) and the shocks seem to be working fine.
- New hard plastic on the arms
I think the new hard plastic made it very difficult to install several of the screws on the arms. Especially the lower shock screws since you are using a much smaller diameter hex. The down stops were also pretty tight but easier since it was a 2mm hex.
- turnbuckle screws that attach to the bulkheads.
They are a little too short if you are going to use more than 2mm spacers. I am using 2mm spacers on the rear(from one of the setup sheets) and I think they will hold but there wasn't a lot of thread that went into the bulkhead.
- anti-roll bar top ball cup (the plastic ones)
Be careful when tightening down one the roll bar, the material is soft and the set screws will strip if not careful.
I can wait to get my electronics in and get it on the track. It will be on Carpet.
- Rear Diff Build
I had a slight issue with the outdrive bearing on one side of the diff. I could not get to seat all the way without having to sand down the plastic diff halve a little. Additionally (but I don't think this will cause a performance issue), When i spin diff on its bulkheads, both the bearing housing vibrate slightly. It is like the bearing aren't seating properly. I have tried re-seating them several times but they still move in and out a little.
- both front and rear outdrive blades.
They seem to be a little tight. When moving the drive train by hand you can see the axles moving due to them sticking on the out drives. this may clear out once it is run once or twice.
- Shock build
Trying to put the e-clips on shock shaft above the pistons was very difficult. It was almost like there wasn't enough room once you had the washer and pistons on the shock shafts. I eventually got them on (after widening the a little) and the shocks seem to be working fine.
- New hard plastic on the arms
I think the new hard plastic made it very difficult to install several of the screws on the arms. Especially the lower shock screws since you are using a much smaller diameter hex. The down stops were also pretty tight but easier since it was a 2mm hex.
- turnbuckle screws that attach to the bulkheads.
They are a little too short if you are going to use more than 2mm spacers. I am using 2mm spacers on the rear(from one of the setup sheets) and I think they will hold but there wasn't a lot of thread that went into the bulkhead.
- anti-roll bar top ball cup (the plastic ones)
Be careful when tightening down one the roll bar, the material is soft and the set screws will strip if not careful.
I can wait to get my electronics in and get it on the track. It will be on Carpet.
08-13-2013, 11:06 PM
#168
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
I am at the final stages of building the Evo and I thought I would give my opinion. All in all the car has gone together pretty well. I did, however, run into a few issues. I am curious if others have the same and/or other issues with the build.
- Rear Diff Build
I had a slight issue with the outdrive bearing on one side of the diff. I could not get to seat all the way without having to sand down the plastic diff halve a little. Additionally (but I don't think this will cause a performance issue), When i spin diff on its bulkheads, both the bearing housing vibrate slightly. It is like the bearing aren't seating properly. I have tried re-seating them several times but they still move in and out a little.
- both front and rear outdrive blades.
They seem to be a little tight. When moving the drive train by hand you can see the axles moving due to them sticking on the out drives. this may clear out once it is run once or twice.
- Shock build
Trying to put the e-clips on shock shaft above the pistons was very difficult. It was almost like there wasn't enough room once you had the washer and pistons on the shock shafts. I eventually got them on (after widening the a little) and the shocks seem to be working fine.
- New hard plastic on the arms
I think the new hard plastic made it very difficult to install several of the screws on the arms. Especially the lower shock screws since you are using a much smaller diameter hex. The down stops were also pretty tight but easier since it was a 2mm hex.
- turnbuckle screws that attach to the bulkheads.
They are a little too short if you are going to use more than 2mm spacers. I am using 2mm spacers on the rear(from one of the setup sheets) and I think they will hold but there wasn't a lot of thread that went into the bulkhead.
- anti-roll bar top ball cup (the plastic ones)
Be careful when tightening down one the roll bar, the material is soft and the set screws will strip if not careful.
I can wait to get my electronics in and get it on the track. It will be on Carpet.
- Rear Diff Build
I had a slight issue with the outdrive bearing on one side of the diff. I could not get to seat all the way without having to sand down the plastic diff halve a little. Additionally (but I don't think this will cause a performance issue), When i spin diff on its bulkheads, both the bearing housing vibrate slightly. It is like the bearing aren't seating properly. I have tried re-seating them several times but they still move in and out a little.
- both front and rear outdrive blades.
They seem to be a little tight. When moving the drive train by hand you can see the axles moving due to them sticking on the out drives. this may clear out once it is run once or twice.
- Shock build
Trying to put the e-clips on shock shaft above the pistons was very difficult. It was almost like there wasn't enough room once you had the washer and pistons on the shock shafts. I eventually got them on (after widening the a little) and the shocks seem to be working fine.
- New hard plastic on the arms
I think the new hard plastic made it very difficult to install several of the screws on the arms. Especially the lower shock screws since you are using a much smaller diameter hex. The down stops were also pretty tight but easier since it was a 2mm hex.
- turnbuckle screws that attach to the bulkheads.
They are a little too short if you are going to use more than 2mm spacers. I am using 2mm spacers on the rear(from one of the setup sheets) and I think they will hold but there wasn't a lot of thread that went into the bulkhead.
- anti-roll bar top ball cup (the plastic ones)
Be careful when tightening down one the roll bar, the material is soft and the set screws will strip if not careful.
I can wait to get my electronics in and get it on the track. It will be on Carpet.
Bearings on differential: on post #27, I explain there is a problem with the first batch of E4RS II EVO (problem solved on second and other batches). To quick fix this little problem, you could simply use sand paper: cut a stripe on a sheet of #400 or #600 sandpaper, and place it around the ball bearing location on the diff case... and simply turn the case with the other hand for a few seconds. When your bearings would be correctly placed, free in movements, you will probably no more have the problem of bearing housing "vibration" (I think your orange inserts are moving a bit laterally because bearings aren't well aligned).
CVD blades: it's true, the blades are hard to insert, because we choose a very hard material for longevity. To insert the blades, I start to introduce one side of the pin on one hole of the blade. I use a lighter to warm the central part of the blade. Right after, I use a long nose plier to place the blade over the second pin. When blade is in place, there is too much play... to "close" the blade around the driveshaft ball, I re-use the lighter to warm a bit the central part of the blade and I maintain the blade on the ball while it cools.
E-clip on piston: yes, on the first batch the room for the piston was a bit too small (this as been corrected). You could use light sandpaper to give more space to the E-clip.
Screws on hard plastics: for the first assembly, you can put a bit of grease on your screws, this will help them to create the thread on the palstic.
Pivot balls: No problem with the lenght if you use 2mm spacer. It may looks too short, but we have for sure no problem with 2mm spacer, don't be afraid about it (we also used 2.5mm without problem). For more spacers, you have to use Team Magic 503138 7mm pivot balls. Why don't we provide the 7mm pivot balls in the kit ? Because with less spacers (2mm and less), the pivot ball could touch the diff outdrives... and this is really not a good option
Short pivot balls would be ok in 80% of the cases.Rear anti-roll bar ball cups: yes, this part is new and we don't had real feedback on it before releasing the kit. We will ask TM to modify a bit the mold, to provide a bit more plastic around the screws. Be care to don't overtight them.
I hope I answered all your issues - sorry for my "Swiss made English"
08-14-2013, 05:37 AM
#169
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (50)
Hello
Bearings on differential: on post #27, I explain there is a problem with the first batch of E4RS II EVO (problem solved on second and other batches). To quick fix this little problem, you could simply use sand paper: cut a stripe on a sheet of #400 or #600 sandpaper, and place it around the ball bearing location on the diff case... and simply turn the case with the other hand for a few seconds. When your bearings would be correctly placed, free in movements, you will probably no more have the problem of bearing housing "vibration" (I think your orange inserts are moving a bit laterally because bearings aren't well aligned).
CVD blades: it's true, the blades are hard to insert, because we choose a very hard material for longevity. To insert the blades, I start to introduce one side of the pin on one hole of the blade. I use a lighter to warm the central part of the blade. Right after, I use a long nose plier to place the blade over the second pin. When blade is in place, there is too much play... to "close" the blade around the driveshaft ball, I re-use the lighter to warm a bit the central part of the blade and I maintain the blade on the ball while it cools.
E-clip on piston: yes, on the first batch the room for the piston was a bit too small (this as been corrected). You could use light sandpaper to give more space to the E-clip.
Screws on hard plastics: for the first assembly, you can put a bit of grease on your screws, this will help them to create the thread on the palstic.
Pivot balls: No problem with the lenght if you use 2mm spacer. It may looks too short, but we have for sure no problem with 2mm spacer, don't be afraid about it (we also used 2.5mm without problem). For more spacers, you have to use Team Magic 503138 7mm pivot balls. Why don't we provide the 7mm pivot balls in the kit ? Because with less spacers (2mm and less), the pivot ball could touch the diff outdrives... and this is really not a good option Short pivot balls would be ok in 80% of the cases.
Rear anti-roll bar ball cups: yes, this part is new and we don't had real feedback on it before releasing the kit. We will ask TM to modify a bit the mold, to provide a bit more plastic around the screws. Be care to don't overtight them.
I hope I answered all your issues - sorry for my "Swiss made English"
Bearings on differential: on post #27, I explain there is a problem with the first batch of E4RS II EVO (problem solved on second and other batches). To quick fix this little problem, you could simply use sand paper: cut a stripe on a sheet of #400 or #600 sandpaper, and place it around the ball bearing location on the diff case... and simply turn the case with the other hand for a few seconds. When your bearings would be correctly placed, free in movements, you will probably no more have the problem of bearing housing "vibration" (I think your orange inserts are moving a bit laterally because bearings aren't well aligned).
CVD blades: it's true, the blades are hard to insert, because we choose a very hard material for longevity. To insert the blades, I start to introduce one side of the pin on one hole of the blade. I use a lighter to warm the central part of the blade. Right after, I use a long nose plier to place the blade over the second pin. When blade is in place, there is too much play... to "close" the blade around the driveshaft ball, I re-use the lighter to warm a bit the central part of the blade and I maintain the blade on the ball while it cools.
E-clip on piston: yes, on the first batch the room for the piston was a bit too small (this as been corrected). You could use light sandpaper to give more space to the E-clip.
Screws on hard plastics: for the first assembly, you can put a bit of grease on your screws, this will help them to create the thread on the palstic.
Pivot balls: No problem with the lenght if you use 2mm spacer. It may looks too short, but we have for sure no problem with 2mm spacer, don't be afraid about it (we also used 2.5mm without problem). For more spacers, you have to use Team Magic 503138 7mm pivot balls. Why don't we provide the 7mm pivot balls in the kit ? Because with less spacers (2mm and less), the pivot ball could touch the diff outdrives... and this is really not a good option
Short pivot balls would be ok in 80% of the cases.Rear anti-roll bar ball cups: yes, this part is new and we don't had real feedback on it before releasing the kit. We will ask TM to modify a bit the mold, to provide a bit more plastic around the screws. Be care to don't overtight them.
I hope I answered all your issues - sorry for my "Swiss made English"
Thanks for the feedback. I am very excited about this car and can't wait to see how it performs on carpet.
08-14-2013, 05:46 AM
#170
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
For rubbers on carpet, I highly recommend to check this setup: http://blog.hrcdistribution.com/setu...E4RS_II_JD.pdf
It's the E4RS II, not the EVO, but you can use the same basis for all the washers on the arm mounts... result is simply awesome.
For difference between E4RS II and E4RS II EVO, you have to switch to 400 shock oils with kit pistons, I think that's all
08-14-2013, 08:29 AM
#171
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (50)
Hello
For rubbers on carpet, I highly recommend to check this setup: http://blog.hrcdistribution.com/setu...E4RS_II_JD.pdf
It's the E4RS II, not the EVO, but you can use the same basis for all the washers on the arm mounts... result is simply awesome.
For difference between E4RS II and E4RS II EVO, you have to switch to 400 shock oils with kit pistons, I think that's all
For rubbers on carpet, I highly recommend to check this setup: http://blog.hrcdistribution.com/setu...E4RS_II_JD.pdf
It's the E4RS II, not the EVO, but you can use the same basis for all the washers on the arm mounts... result is simply awesome.
For difference between E4RS II and E4RS II EVO, you have to switch to 400 shock oils with kit pistons, I think that's all
ok, I will try that next.
I currently have the setup you recommended on post #133 on the car
http://blog.hrcdistribution.com/setu..._II_EVO_LT.pdf
08-14-2013, 08:35 AM
#172
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
Yes, it's the same basis (washers / arm holders).
We will be back on carpet end september... right after the outdoor season.
We will be back on carpet end september... right after the outdoor season.
08-14-2013, 06:42 PM
#173
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (50)
Alright, I am going to need some help with Droop. I have the Hudy droop gauges so the numbers don't translate very well. Now, I understand droop but I am just not sure how to use the specR numbers.
For instance, on one setup sheet specr droop shows 30.6....Is that 30.6mm from the surface that the chassis on or are there blocks that specr uses? I am thinking that number includes block and they may be 5mm themselves.
Thanks for any help.
For instance, on one setup sheet specr droop shows 30.6....Is that 30.6mm from the surface that the chassis on or are there blocks that specr uses? I am thinking that number includes block and they may be 5mm themselves.
Thanks for any help.
08-14-2013, 08:22 PM
#174
Alright, I am going to need some help with Droop. I have the Hudy droop gauges so the numbers don't translate very well. Now, I understand droop but I am just not sure how to use the specR numbers.
For instance, on one setup sheet specr droop shows 30.6....Is that 30.6mm from the surface that the chassis on or are there blocks that specr uses? I am thinking that number includes block and they may be 5mm themselves.
Thanks for any help.
For instance, on one setup sheet specr droop shows 30.6....Is that 30.6mm from the surface that the chassis on or are there blocks that specr uses? I am thinking that number includes block and they may be 5mm themselves.
Thanks for any help.
08-14-2013, 09:41 PM
#175
Tech Adept
Well what can I say, Beautiful!, the car arrived a couple of weeks ago and I finally found some time to complete the build. I am impressed with this kit so far, the quality of parts is second to none and I have built some pretty top notch kits (xray,Kyosho), everything went together well, everything lined up precisely, the carbon was cut expertly requiring minimal edge sanding to give a polished look. The diffs are smooth and again went together like a breeze. I think the hardest part of the build was the bumper section due to having to squeeze the foam within the mounts but really no problem, thats just illustrating how pleasant this car was to build. I was really impressed with the moulding of the diff gears on their sprue and how they sepperate from the sprue so percisely, requiring very little if not no trimming of excess sprue.
Cant wait to run it this weekend, I currently hold the Lap and Track record at our home track and am hoping that I can improve that with this car, I am currently chasing 20 laps as my fastest time is 19 laps in 6min 13, so the question is whether this car can shave almost half a second off of my lap times. I will kepp you all posted.
Cant wait to run it this weekend, I currently hold the Lap and Track record at our home track and am hoping that I can improve that with this car, I am currently chasing 20 laps as my fastest time is 19 laps in 6min 13, so the question is whether this car can shave almost half a second off of my lap times. I will kepp you all posted.
08-14-2013, 10:15 PM
#176
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
Alright, I am going to need some help with Droop. I have the Hudy droop gauges so the numbers don't translate very well. Now, I understand droop but I am just not sure how to use the specR numbers.
For instance, on one setup sheet specr droop shows 30.6....Is that 30.6mm from the surface that the chassis on or are there blocks that specr uses? I am thinking that number includes block and they may be 5mm themselves.
Thanks for any help.
For instance, on one setup sheet specr droop shows 30.6....Is that 30.6mm from the surface that the chassis on or are there blocks that specr uses? I am thinking that number includes block and they may be 5mm themselves.
Thanks for any help.
08-14-2013, 10:16 PM
#178
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
Well what can I say, Beautiful!, the car arrived a couple of weeks ago and I finally found some time to complete the build. I am impressed with this kit so far, the quality of parts is second to none and I have built some pretty top notch kits (xray,Kyosho), everything went together well, everything lined up precisely, the carbon was cut expertly requiring minimal edge sanding to give a polished look. The diffs are smooth and again went together like a breeze. I think the hardest part of the build was the bumper section due to having to squeeze the foam within the mounts but really no problem, thats just illustrating how pleasant this car was to build. I was really impressed with the moulding of the diff gears on their sprue and how they sepperate from the sprue so percisely, requiring very little if not no trimming of excess sprue.
Cant wait to run it this weekend, I currently hold the Lap and Track record at our home track and am hoping that I can improve that with this car, I am currently chasing 20 laps as my fastest time is 19 laps in 6min 13, so the question is whether this car can shave almost half a second off of my lap times. I will kepp you all posted.
Cant wait to run it this weekend, I currently hold the Lap and Track record at our home track and am hoping that I can improve that with this car, I am currently chasing 20 laps as my fastest time is 19 laps in 6min 13, so the question is whether this car can shave almost half a second off of my lap times. I will kepp you all posted.
08-14-2013, 10:18 PM
#179
Tech Adept
Thread Starter