paco62

iTrader: (1)

I am purchasing a Losi 8ight-T race roller and was going to put an O.S. .21 engine in it, but wasn't sure whether to get the pull, electric or starter box type of engine.

I am new to nitro (but familiar w/electric) and will be club racing, but don't want to start with anything too complicated while I get my head around the nitro thing. Losi recommends the starter box, saying that the Race Roller is set up for it, but that's easy for them to say since their starter box is $75.00.

Really just want the best choice for a beginner that plans on losing a lot of races while he learns, not trying to be a champ right out of the box with all the greatest equipment the pros use. That being said, I don't know if the Race Roller will accept a pull or electric start. AND, maybe the starter box IS the best choice...questions, question...

Thanks for the help.

rezenclowd3

iTrader: (17)

Cheapest in the long haul is the starter box method. Pull starts and roto starts break too easily, and also cause massive amounts of drag on the engine. The starter box is also the easiest to use, the only downside is another set of batteries to charge, and having to walk your vehicle to the starter box when your vehicle dies.

tex1

iTrader: (4)

If you bought the sportworks .26 V2 motor you would be spending $140. Add your starter box and you are ready to go. The OS .21 will not pull anywhere near like this engine for the money. An OS VG would be your best bet for that kind of bank and it will not pull as well nor will it hold up as long.
These engines are the same ones the RTR's are based on.
They are easy to tune and will last.
Besides being cost effective, you probably will not get out motored.
Hope this helps.
TEX

paco62

iTrader: (1)

Is that ROAR compliant?

MattP

iTrader: (440)

Losi is right about the race roller and their starter box being a direct fit. The reason why the losi box works so well is it was designed solely for the starting of the 8ight buggy and truggy. It comes out of the box with a front peg setup that fits right at the front of the chassis next to the servo saver and a rear sliding system that fits the back of the chassis. The front can be turned around and the rear can be slid forward to fit the buggy. Then to start the truggy just turn the front piece back around and slide the rear back. I would honestly pick up a decent bump start .26-.28 engine(or .21 if you plan on racing strictly) and buy the losi starter box. Here are a few pics to show why it works so well.

air8

iTrader: (7)

Yes. Truggies are allowed up to a .28

And maybe up to a .32 of the RTR variety? Not sure on that one.

paco62

iTrader: (1)

Thanks everyone for the great information! Starter box it is.

It sounds like I may need to rethink my engine. As stated earlier, I'm new to nitro and read that the O.S. engines were easy for newbies. I believe they make a .28. I may see if I can find out if it is ROAR compliant (I will check with my club track anyway, since I doubt I am heading to the nationals soon).

Any suggestions? I know Go Tech. is popular around here.

air8

iTrader: (7)

O.S. does make the .28XZ and it's probably too much for any vehicle, let alone someone just starting out. No offense. If you are keen to the O.S. line of engines check out the .21VG. It's a great engine and runs strong. Easy to tune and should do well for someone starting out. It's around $150 USD at most places.

Using an engine that people around you use is a good idea too. They can offer advice and tips for keeping it running well. And from what I read here on RCTech the GO engines perform well. For this year I'm going to try the over-powered engines. Starting with a Novarossi 821.

From what I read an engine over .21 displacement will give performance of a High End .21 with out giving up all the moolah. LOL. Like a decent .26 or .28 under $200 will perform close to a $300+ .21 engine. Also the engines manufactured in todays market are starting to average on too much power. It sucks to say that but I can see it at the race track. New drivers with powerful engines equal broken parts before they can finish a race. And with the RTR radios that come with them usually don't have adjustments to limit the carb travel, which tames the engine down. So it becomes the drivers' desicion to stay in the throttle a little too long and over shoot the track--hitting solid obstacles.

air8

iTrader: (7)

Sorry for the long post. I'm just offering advice and insight. Hopefully keeping newcomers from thinking they have to get the most powerful and most expensive parts. It's just not needed below a pro level of racing.

paco62

iTrader: (1)

Not at all, it's much appreciated. I've spent hours gleaning through information on these threads and I just waffle from one idea to the next. I think my head is going through the break-in period.

I originally was settled on the O.S. VG .21 that you referenced earlier as I heard it's a great beginner engine and low cost if you blow it. I am just worried about it not being enough to power this thing. I definitely don't want to blow a bunch of bank on the best engine and then blow it up or smash my rig because I can't handle it, but running in last place only because of your engine can't perform to the necessary level doesn't sound fun either (though that may not be the case). That is my only worry with the VG .21 though I've learned since that I just may lose some low end advantage with that motor. For $150.00, I can learn to tune, learn to drive (I currently own an E-maxx. Bash experience, no race) and then move up without too much dent.

I may just be in a new owner, buyer panic.

air8

iTrader: (7)

LOL. I go through that with engines all the time. I always end up shying away from the high end engines. I've race off-road for a season now and I'm going to try a high end motor in the next couple of months.

The .21VG is just like you have heard. It runs good, but definately not the fastest. It does lack some bottom end punch for a truggy so I used a JP-1 pipe on mine and I had no complaints. If I would have been on a track with a 200ft straight away I might have run out of motor towards the end, but I would have tried to make up for that teeny tiny disadvantage by driving a tighter line around the track.

If this will be your first nitro engine don't be disappointed if you toast it with in a gallon or two. The words you read on here will not make up for experience. But the more you read the better educated you will become of course. Many, many people have bad luck with their first engines no matter what brand. So for under $200 you won't be out much, all engines can be resleeved when needed, and by then you will have a lot of run time with your car. Then after the rebuild or if you decide on a different engine, you will have the experience to know what the engine wants, and what to do to make it last.

I learned nitro engines with a Revo. The first engine lasted almost a gallon. The second engine was over two gallons and going strong when I sold it. Then I bought a buggy with a Mach 427 (.26) and it's still going good after 13 gallons. That engine is on my oval car now.

Once I start having tuning trouble with my engines is when I look to rebuild/replace. That is if everything is sealed up from air leaks, gaskets are all in place, the fuel tank and carb are in good condition. If it just doesn't run right with all else being good, that is a good indication that the engine is done for.

rcg33k

If you're going to go with an OS engine and you're going to have a starter box, I would suggest going with a standard V-Spec. It's a durable engine that most drivers race with, and very successfully I might add. Very few top-level drivers use the .28 engine because it's too powerful and it eats up fuel too fast. The V-Spec is reasonably priced and it's an ABC engine. The VG has a nickel-plated sleeve, which causes the engine to wear pretty quickly, especially if you run it too lean. In rough terms, the V-Spec will probably last about 2 to 3 times longer, and it's a legitimate racing engine that's easy to tune and more durable when it comes to resisting damage from typical noob tuning mistakes. they're both a good choice, but I think the better money is on the V-Spec. You can pick up a V-Spec for $269 at www.amainhobbies.com and you're not going to need to replace the piston and sleeve 3 times. I've run the V-Spec competitively through 8 gallons of fuel and it's still running strong. That's just my opinion having run both engines, and quite a few others.

paco62

iTrader: (1)

Wow. Thanks for the time and the down to earth explanation and advice. My gut tells me the VG is the best bet to start out, especially after your help. I think I would rather stick to the back for a short bit and learn than get frustrated and throw everything in the dumpster and take up dancing.

You touched on another question if I may press further. I recently read a review of the Jammin' pipes that indicated the JP-1 was great low end and, according to the review, their second best pipe, but that the JP-4 had a better bell curve and less drop off in the end resulting in more balanced performance. My thought was to use the JP-4 so that the lack of high end from the VG .21 might be offset with the help of less drop in performance from the pipe, but should I stick with the JP-1 and just try and pump the low end as much as possible?

paco62

iTrader: (1)

BTW, this has been a great help from everyone that has posted. I hope some other noob comes along this and learns as much as I have.

Kudos to everyone involved!

Mugen MBX-5

you sure about that??

i heard that they put very little amount of resistance on the motor (PS anyways). almost insignificant?

and how is the starter box easier to use?

i run a pullstart, and when my car dies, i walk to it with the glowplug, start it on the spot, and keep cruising, while i walk back to where i originally was.. whats easier than that?