139LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
08-28-2014, 01:11 PM
If desperate for room I'd put the ESC on the battery strap. Possibly a carbon fiber version so that you have a more even flat surface (check that the body clears it as well).
Pity they didn't propose a pivot for it like the 22 2.0 I quite liked that on mine.
Jonathan
Pity they didn't propose a pivot for it like the 22 2.0 I quite liked that on mine.
Jonathan
08-28-2014, 01:31 PM
08-28-2014, 02:01 PM
Ball cup pictures will help, maybe we can see issues. Cherry you have done a few team kits they sold a few thousand, every time somebody posts no need to chime in with my ball cups are great. If we all posted our non issues with our B5M's we would have pages of....mine are great, mine are good, sorry no problems here. I like your posts on set up changes and your willingness to try everything but your flogging a dead horse on certain topics.
I had a first break last night on B5rm, on a big sweeper at the end of straight, rear right tire caught the end of pipe, broke the inner plastic rear "c" mount. First break on B5m was plastic rear ball stud mount. Both breaks were for sure needed, fast hard hits. Car has taken some lickings and keeps on ticking. My son who has had it a few months, use to break his car every other round and nothing yet. Going to turn RM car into mid motor mod car now for fun.
Need a new esc thinking of trying the Orion but don't know if I want to go through the learning process though it looks straight forward, still a pain. I don't love the different software for different stock/mod racing that LRP and Orion have. Wish that was more of a setting change not a full software download. I wish the iOS or Android based setting systems were more popular with the big guys instead of their own proprietary program boxes. I think the future we may see more and more updating made easier, color screens, etc. would be cool.
I was thinking AE should could come with a B5M shorty conversion sideways to inline instead of hacking up parts which is fine but could give racers another item to play with now that car has been out awhile.
I had a first break last night on B5rm, on a big sweeper at the end of straight, rear right tire caught the end of pipe, broke the inner plastic rear "c" mount. First break on B5m was plastic rear ball stud mount. Both breaks were for sure needed, fast hard hits. Car has taken some lickings and keeps on ticking. My son who has had it a few months, use to break his car every other round and nothing yet. Going to turn RM car into mid motor mod car now for fun.
Need a new esc thinking of trying the Orion but don't know if I want to go through the learning process though it looks straight forward, still a pain. I don't love the different software for different stock/mod racing that LRP and Orion have. Wish that was more of a setting change not a full software download. I wish the iOS or Android based setting systems were more popular with the big guys instead of their own proprietary program boxes. I think the future we may see more and more updating made easier, color screens, etc. would be cool.
I was thinking AE should could come with a B5M shorty conversion sideways to inline instead of hacking up parts which is fine but could give racers another item to play with now that car has been out awhile.
08-28-2014, 02:10 PM
08-28-2014, 03:39 PM
Suspended
iTrader: (115)
Just ordered a HW Justock Black edition ESC for $49.99 with free shipping.....how can you beat that? 
Now onto the motor.....
Currently Looking at;
Schuur Speed 17.5
Trinity D4 17.5
Now onto the motor.....
Currently Looking at;
Schuur Speed 17.5
Trinity D4 17.5
08-28-2014, 04:12 PM
08-28-2014, 04:17 PM
Is cherry suspended from this forum for a month? (one could only hope)
08-28-2014, 04:22 PM
peace and quiet !!!!!!!!!
08-28-2014, 04:42 PM
Dear mods, please feel free to suspend all the WC bashers as well since they are such a fine example of appropriate behavior.
Seriously though, can everyone just give it a rest?
Seriously though, can everyone just give it a rest?
08-28-2014, 04:52 PM
Dude is a Troll plain and simple adds nothing but BS to these threads. Needs to learn his lesson or go be a troll some place else.
08-28-2014, 05:00 PM
Enough of the WC talk. Let's move forward from here.
For those of you who feel they have to get in the last word, don't even bother!
For those of you who feel they have to get in the last word, don't even bother!
08-28-2014, 05:06 PM
I did cut the cross piece between the servo and ESC, but that was to gather the wires in heatshrink. I did this at first but its easier to coil the wires.
Switch is on top of the receiver and the bind button is still accessible. The wires from the capacitor run under it to the back of the ESC.
08-28-2014, 05:12 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
+1. I never really thought I had a problem with saddle packs. Then a guy at the track was selling some really nice shorty packs for $20 a piece, so I bought two just to try. I've used nothing but shorty packs since. It's hard for me to say exactly what makes them so much better for me, but I know the car just feels more consistent everywhere on the track.
08-28-2014, 05:17 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
. . . But think about this... Stock Nationals First and Second place were running Hobbywing speed controls. HW esc are very economical and obviously good enough to win nationals. The HW v3.1 stock Spec esc is only like $129 and is very good. The Justock is also very good and comes in at $49, but it wont handle as many mod motors like the v3.1 stock spec. HW ESCs have a very smooth power band and brakes. The LCD program box is also very cheap and easy to use. Now let the ESC battles begin.
Thanks . . . Matt
08-28-2014, 05:38 PM
V3.1 stock spec is $129.99, the V3.1 120 amp version is $189.