Rc-bear

iTrader: (12)

Well my kit is built and for a first time kit builder I had absolutely no issues with the instructions.

I should hopefully have mine up and running in the next few weeks.

I have upgraded about 50% of the parts to aluminium, once funds permit I will be finishing of the upgrades.

The servo will be a Savox SC-1251MG and I will be running a hobbywing justock esc and a hobbywing 21.5T motor.

I will be racing on carpet in Australia in stock class.

Woulvesbaine

iTrader: (12)

So, this may seem like an odd pair of cars to consider, but hear me out. I'm mostly an offroard guy, but I used to run nitro 10th (tc3, then MTX-3). I run at WCRC and they are slowly getting more onroad participants. I'm just getting back into the hobby after 5 years but of course I've dived into it and bought a few cars.

My question is for someone that will be racing indoor on asphalt, is a good (but not yet great) driver, will I notice many handling differences between a Zero S and a tc6.1? I'm looking for something that's easy to setup and will give me a reasonable chance to compete. If ther were 30 cars, assume I'd be in the B main or assume I'd be in an intermediate class.

I realize these kits are way different price wise, but I notice you can usually pick up a very clean 6.1 for under 300 these days.

Not really interested in xray because it appears even more expensive than the tc6.1 and at least with the associated, WCRC stocks some parts.

Thoughts?

halldor

Someone a few pages back has made a FDR chart showing the clearance. I don't have the VMM but with the stock motor mount you can fit a 33t or perhaps a 34t (it's a tight fit, I wasn't comfortable with it). I think the VMM has a bit more room.

Stanfsu

iTrader: (294)

I have fully hopped-up Sakura Zero for sale here on R/C tech. Setup for VTA.
Thanks for looking.

mudunda

hi to all the sakura boys

i just got my zero s wich was already built but new.
the problem is that 3 of the wheels wobble and it seems to have a mind of its
own going straight.

any ideas what it could be

thanks

urban

servo saver .crack rims bent shafts, wheel nuts loose?

6376vette

Check all of the screws and nuts to be sure everything is tight. Then you need to set your camber and toe so the car will track properly.

Paul R

can anyone tell me whats the IR for the sakura zero s ? i been looking at the manual doesn't tell me nothing .

Paul R

ok guys im calculating my FDR , this is what i have .
Spur is a 80t my pinion is a 21t so 80 divided by 21 = 3.80 times IR 1.9 = FRD 7.22 IS THIS RIGHT ? and is this a good set up for a mid traction track ? thanks .

6376vette

Gear pulleys divided by spur pulleys equals internal ratio. ex. 38 tooth on the gear diff \ 19 on the spur equals internal ratio of 2.0. So (spur \ pinion) * ir =FDR.

What size motor are you running? Boosted? A FDR in the 7s may be good for mod boosted tc but will surely get killed in vta.

Proper FDR will rarely be affected by traction level. It would be more appropriate to post the track size.

Paul R

I'm running a reedy sonic 17.5 . i'm running stock class . yeah i did my research and my IR from what the 3racing manuel says its a IR of 1.9

mike_d

iTrader: (84)

BTW if anyone is looking for some Sakura Zero's I have a couple for sale!
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post11375035

Paul R

are you selling the stock tires + wheels separately ? really good beater tires for practice .

mike_d

iTrader: (84)

I wasn't planning on it no, was just going to sell them with the car.

mudunda

thanks for the reply

i took the shafts out and then i looked at the diffs and when i powered on
i noticed it is the diffs that wobble.
they are set in tight with all the screws both front and back wobble.
its never been driven or smashed.
got no idea what it could be. maybe faulty diffs