World GT - WGT - 200mm Pan Spec
12-14-2012, 09:18 PM
#258
Tech Adept
spec tyres
Here in the Uk the most popular tyre by far are a USA product.RC4LESS make a great lilac spec tyres and wheel.
Inside of the wheel is branded with a W and a lilac sticker. Only down side to them is they come on orange wheels.But the rubber is fine and total traction at all venues.
Inside of the wheel is branded with a W and a lilac sticker. Only down side to them is they come on orange wheels.But the rubber is fine and total traction at all venues.
12-15-2012, 12:01 AM
#259
No I don't think it is a gear diff. When I pause the video I can clearly see a diff ring on the inside of the spur gear. Must just be the way they did the hubs. As for using that for WGT...the rear wheels bolt on with a single nut instead of 4 screws so you might have to modify the rear axle to be able to use the WGT spec wheels/tires.
12-15-2012, 03:25 AM
#260
Tech Adept
tyres
Hubs need to be changed for this car to make any inroads on the market all current spec wheels wont fit this mode. Don't know what they were thinking off when this was designed .Guess they will be bring out there own range of wheels and tyres.l
12-15-2012, 03:26 AM
#261
The GQ tires are R/C4less rims only in Black. I don't know about the rubber compounds are the same. But the tire works great. I'm also using the same spec tire in my oval class that requires WGT spec tires. So the GQ tire works both in oval and road course.
12-15-2012, 04:35 AM
#262
Tech Adept
GQ TYRES
If they do a spec tyres LILAC grade not legal in the Uk as not on the approved list.
Also don't know of an importer in the Uk.
Also don't know of an importer in the Uk.
12-15-2012, 07:18 AM
#263
Tech Master
have cutouts locating on ribs inside the wheels. This means the wheels can be attached to the axle at the outer edge, so Turnigy can mould rear wheels that look more scale than a normal WorldGT wheel.
12-21-2012, 07:16 AM
#264
Hi guys,
Im just starting to get into WGT,and would like to know a few things about the chassis available
I can get good local parts support for the Xray X10 in both versions,The AE 10R5.1 and maybe the TOP Racing WGT.
Which car out of these three would be better to learn with,stronger,and less susceptible to tweak?I still crash a bit.
Also,the track is indoor,tight,bumpy,medium grip asphalt at my local track,indoor Ozite at another,outdoor smooth asphalt at the other.Which out of the 3 chassis above would be better in these lower grip,bumpier conditions?
Would link,or T plate be the go?
I realise it's all up too the driver,just checking to see what yor opinions are on these cars.I have raced F1 for 6months,not much onroad experience.
I might start on 2S 17.5,two other mates picking this up may go beefier in the motor department.We will work that out once we run them.
Just looking for any input into what car would be best suited to the above requirements.
Any help/input much appreciated
Im just starting to get into WGT,and would like to know a few things about the chassis available
I can get good local parts support for the Xray X10 in both versions,The AE 10R5.1 and maybe the TOP Racing WGT.
Which car out of these three would be better to learn with,stronger,and less susceptible to tweak?I still crash a bit.
Also,the track is indoor,tight,bumpy,medium grip asphalt at my local track,indoor Ozite at another,outdoor smooth asphalt at the other.Which out of the 3 chassis above would be better in these lower grip,bumpier conditions?
Would link,or T plate be the go?
I realise it's all up too the driver,just checking to see what yor opinions are on these cars.I have raced F1 for 6months,not much onroad experience.
I might start on 2S 17.5,two other mates picking this up may go beefier in the motor department.We will work that out once we run them.
Just looking for any input into what car would be best suited to the above requirements.
Any help/input much appreciated
12-21-2012, 08:07 AM
#265
Tech Master
Hi guys,
Im just starting to get into WGT,and would like to know a few things about the chassis available
I can get good local parts support for the Xray X10 in both versions,The AE 10R5.1 and maybe the TOP Racing WGT.
Which car out of these three would be better to learn with,stronger,and less susceptible to tweak?I still crash a bit.
Also,the track is indoor,tight,bumpy,medium grip asphalt at my local track,indoor Ozite at another,outdoor smooth asphalt at the other.Which out of the 3 chassis above would be better in these lower grip,bumpier conditions?
Would link,or T plate be the go?
I realise it's all up too the driver,just checking to see what yor opinions are on these cars.I have raced F1 for 6months,not much onroad experience.
I might start on 2S 17.5,two other mates picking this up may go beefier in the motor department.We will work that out once we run them.
Just looking for any input into what car would be best suited to the above requirements.
Any help/input much appreciated
Im just starting to get into WGT,and would like to know a few things about the chassis available
I can get good local parts support for the Xray X10 in both versions,The AE 10R5.1 and maybe the TOP Racing WGT.
Which car out of these three would be better to learn with,stronger,and less susceptible to tweak?I still crash a bit.
Also,the track is indoor,tight,bumpy,medium grip asphalt at my local track,indoor Ozite at another,outdoor smooth asphalt at the other.Which out of the 3 chassis above would be better in these lower grip,bumpier conditions?
Would link,or T plate be the go?
I realise it's all up too the driver,just checking to see what yor opinions are on these cars.I have raced F1 for 6months,not much onroad experience.
I might start on 2S 17.5,two other mates picking this up may go beefier in the motor department.We will work that out once we run them.
Just looking for any input into what car would be best suited to the above requirements.
Any help/input much appreciated
12-21-2012, 08:22 AM
#266
Hi guys,
Im just starting to get into WGT,and would like to know a few things about the chassis available
I can get good local parts support for the Xray X10 in both versions,The AE 10R5.1 and maybe the TOP Racing WGT.
Which car out of these three would be better to learn with,stronger,and less susceptible to tweak?I still crash a bit.
Also,the track is indoor,tight,bumpy,medium grip asphalt at my local track,indoor Ozite at another,outdoor smooth asphalt at the other.Which out of the 3 chassis above would be better in these lower grip,bumpier conditions?
Would link,or T plate be the go?
I realise it's all up too the driver,just checking to see what yor opinions are on these cars.I have raced F1 for 6months,not much onroad experience.
I might start on 2S 17.5,two other mates picking this up may go beefier in the motor department.We will work that out once we run them.
Just looking for any input into what car would be best suited to the above requirements.
Any help/input much appreciated
Im just starting to get into WGT,and would like to know a few things about the chassis available
I can get good local parts support for the Xray X10 in both versions,The AE 10R5.1 and maybe the TOP Racing WGT.
Which car out of these three would be better to learn with,stronger,and less susceptible to tweak?I still crash a bit.
Also,the track is indoor,tight,bumpy,medium grip asphalt at my local track,indoor Ozite at another,outdoor smooth asphalt at the other.Which out of the 3 chassis above would be better in these lower grip,bumpier conditions?
Would link,or T plate be the go?
I realise it's all up too the driver,just checking to see what yor opinions are on these cars.I have raced F1 for 6months,not much onroad experience.
I might start on 2S 17.5,two other mates picking this up may go beefier in the motor department.We will work that out once we run them.
Just looking for any input into what car would be best suited to the above requirements.
Any help/input much appreciated
You are looking for a Link car, as luck would have it, nearly every modern car, is a link car
All 3 you listed are very good choices, and more or less the same as far as tuning and durability
2s 17.5 is going to be very, very quick for an indoor circuit
In the US, 13.5 1s is the standard
If you plan on using that much power, to run into things
You may also want to consider the Corally 10SL
I hear it is the most durble of pan cars available
http://www.corally.com/
12-21-2012, 09:08 AM
#267
T-plate cars are nearly extinct
You are looking for a Link car, as luck would have it, nearly every modern car, is a link car
All 3 you listed are very good choices, and more or less the same as far as tuning and durability
2s 17.5 is going to be very, very quick for an indoor circuit
In the US, 13.5 1s is the standard
If you plan on using that much power, to run into things
You may also want to consider the Corally 10SL
I hear it is the most durble of pan cars available
http://www.corally.com/
You are looking for a Link car, as luck would have it, nearly every modern car, is a link car
All 3 you listed are very good choices, and more or less the same as far as tuning and durability
2s 17.5 is going to be very, very quick for an indoor circuit
In the US, 13.5 1s is the standard
If you plan on using that much power, to run into things
You may also want to consider the Corally 10SL
I hear it is the most durble of pan cars available
http://www.corally.com/
12-21-2012, 10:39 AM
#268
You should see the corally catalogue from 10-15 years ago. Cheesy as hell with bikini babes or dressed in skinny military uniforms holding Corally cars and motors 
Copy/paste in the browser
http://www.corally.com/anubizz/corally.nsf/unids/427174D34B61CE418025758200580EE0/$FILE/1999%20Corally%20catalog%20pg13%201MB%20PDF.pdf
Copy/paste in the browser
http://www.corally.com/anubizz/corally.nsf/unids/427174D34B61CE418025758200580EE0/$FILE/1999%20Corally%20catalog%20pg13%201MB%20PDF.pdf
12-21-2012, 01:59 PM
#269
You should see the corally catalogue from 10-15 years ago. Cheesy as hell with bikini babes or dressed in skinny military uniforms holding Corally cars and motors
Copy/paste in the browser
http://www.corally.com/anubizz/corally.nsf/unids/427174D34B61CE418025758200580EE0/$FILE/1999%20Corally%20catalog%20pg13%201MB%20PDF.pdf
Copy/paste in the browser
http://www.corally.com/anubizz/corally.nsf/unids/427174D34B61CE418025758200580EE0/$FILE/1999%20Corally%20catalog%20pg13%201MB%20PDF.pdf
If it ain't Dutch
It ain't much
12-21-2012, 04:53 PM
#270
Tech Master
The Corally SP10SL is indeed a great chassis! I would say that though ;-)
I have been running mine for about 12 months now and had some good results with it. It is based around a 2c (17.5) setup but can accomadate a 1c LiPo very easily. I prefer to use the 4-pivot rear end over the link rear end, but it's just a tuning aid and not neccesary a 'must have' straight away.
Here's a pic of mine ready for a meeting we are having this coming Sunday:
I have run it with various electronic layouts, and wanted to try it like this to see how it feels over having the LiPo down the middle.
If you have any questions or would like some more info, feel free to ask!
Cheers, Chris.
I have been running mine for about 12 months now and had some good results with it. It is based around a 2c (17.5) setup but can accomadate a 1c LiPo very easily. I prefer to use the 4-pivot rear end over the link rear end, but it's just a tuning aid and not neccesary a 'must have' straight away.
Here's a pic of mine ready for a meeting we are having this coming Sunday:
I have run it with various electronic layouts, and wanted to try it like this to see how it feels over having the LiPo down the middle.
If you have any questions or would like some more info, feel free to ask!
Cheers, Chris.