3LikesXray T4 2016
03-17-2017, 02:10 AM - Wikipost
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10-14-2015, 12:09 PM
#151
Yes the kit comes with a 84T 48P spur, there's no real advantage to running either but 48P would deal with small stones and debris a little better than 64P when running outdoors.
10-14-2015, 03:33 PM
#152
Got my kit yesterday and started the very enjoyable build.
Sadly my alloy steering arms 302525 didn't make it, on back-order.
Did all the tedious stuff last night such as CA'ing the carbon bits and building all links and diffs.
Tonight I should be able to finish the build,
parts I am using other than stock are
2.7 Springs all round 308276
Graphite Steering Plate 302570
450CST shock oil
5000CST rear diff
30g balance weight 309854
Alu steering arms 302525
Carbon Bumper brace
Alu servo horn HD293493
Alu battery holders
Can't wait to give it a shakedown in Whalan this weekend before the Australian Nationals there in 3 weeks.
Sadly my alloy steering arms 302525 didn't make it, on back-order.
Did all the tedious stuff last night such as CA'ing the carbon bits and building all links and diffs.
Tonight I should be able to finish the build,
parts I am using other than stock are
2.7 Springs all round 308276
Graphite Steering Plate 302570
450CST shock oil
5000CST rear diff
30g balance weight 309854
Alu steering arms 302525
Carbon Bumper brace
Alu servo horn HD293493
Alu battery holders
Can't wait to give it a shakedown in Whalan this weekend before the Australian Nationals there in 3 weeks.
10-14-2015, 05:18 PM
#154
How are you finding the build compared to your previous cars?
10-14-2015, 07:43 PM
#156
I think it has been just that bit nicer, although I'm not really assembling the main car yet, but the bits I have put together went nicely.
I like the links all have the open style ends to better clear the wheels, that wasnt the case for my '14 from memory.
I was also a bit of a novice 2 years ago building the '14, I expect my assembly skills have improved in that time.
Let me report back tomorrow.
I like the links all have the open style ends to better clear the wheels, that wasnt the case for my '14 from memory.
I was also a bit of a novice 2 years ago building the '14, I expect my assembly skills have improved in that time.
Let me report back tomorrow.
10-14-2015, 08:44 PM
#157
10-15-2015, 04:22 AM
#159
It's honestly a little bit of a mixed bag in terms of plus and minus over the TRF so far!
The carbon finish seems no different to TRF to be honest.
The alloy anodising does appear deep and even. I would like to see the alloy parts keyed to the chassis though. And three screws to the split blocks would be a much better idea.
The diff was very nice to build, but so is the TRF (just that the TRF leaks like sieve after). Plastic satellite gear shafts is a bit of a let down. It is also double the price! Plastic for the spool (and outdrives if left stock) seems a bit cheap. I'm sure it performs ok.
I like the diff/spool tension adjustment method better. More precise. Easier to lock in.
I did find some swarf in the then of a few of the alloy parts. Not a big drama.
I don't like the DCJ design compared to the Tamiya, but if they do they job, and don't break, that's what matters.
The insert system is novel, and cheaper than other solutions I'm sure, and no need for shims or a variety of blocks - but how does it wear? Seems less precise the balls in hard mounts.
Stock Bumper seems quite flimsy.
One of the rear driveshaft pins was mis-ground and would not fit into the y coupling. I had to sand it on the chamfer edge. Little disappointing.
The plastics are much better. They thread nicer and have much less slop. You can tell they have really spent some R&D on the injection moulding design to ensure high quality. 4 injection points for each diff spider gear for example.
Ball cups/studs are very tight fitting yet very smooth. Good job.
Shock Pistons would be nicer if they were machined and not off a tree.
The finish of the hinge pins could be treated. I've seen surface rust on others and can see how they could oxide easily. Non rusting Titanium, is of course, an upgrade away.
Servo saver is awesome. Servo mount is nice and light - but oh so complex to a single piece alloy 😜
It has, however, cost a small fortune to bring up to the same "spec" as my 419 - carbon bumper, alloy Spring retainers, alloy steering, graphite plastics, steel/alloy outdrives, alloy spacers - not to mention other upgrades I "had" to have like white belts, body post dooflakkies and battery retainer.
The carbon finish seems no different to TRF to be honest.
The alloy anodising does appear deep and even. I would like to see the alloy parts keyed to the chassis though. And three screws to the split blocks would be a much better idea.
The diff was very nice to build, but so is the TRF (just that the TRF leaks like sieve after). Plastic satellite gear shafts is a bit of a let down. It is also double the price! Plastic for the spool (and outdrives if left stock) seems a bit cheap. I'm sure it performs ok.
I like the diff/spool tension adjustment method better. More precise. Easier to lock in.
I did find some swarf in the then of a few of the alloy parts. Not a big drama.
I don't like the DCJ design compared to the Tamiya, but if they do they job, and don't break, that's what matters.
The insert system is novel, and cheaper than other solutions I'm sure, and no need for shims or a variety of blocks - but how does it wear? Seems less precise the balls in hard mounts.
Stock Bumper seems quite flimsy.
One of the rear driveshaft pins was mis-ground and would not fit into the y coupling. I had to sand it on the chamfer edge. Little disappointing.
The plastics are much better. They thread nicer and have much less slop. You can tell they have really spent some R&D on the injection moulding design to ensure high quality. 4 injection points for each diff spider gear for example.
Ball cups/studs are very tight fitting yet very smooth. Good job.
Shock Pistons would be nicer if they were machined and not off a tree.
The finish of the hinge pins could be treated. I've seen surface rust on others and can see how they could oxide easily. Non rusting Titanium, is of course, an upgrade away.
Servo saver is awesome. Servo mount is nice and light - but oh so complex to a single piece alloy 😜
It has, however, cost a small fortune to bring up to the same "spec" as my 419 - carbon bumper, alloy Spring retainers, alloy steering, graphite plastics, steel/alloy outdrives, alloy spacers - not to mention other upgrades I "had" to have like white belts, body post dooflakkies and battery retainer.
10-15-2015, 06:49 AM
#160
Tech Apprentice
10-15-2015, 08:27 PM
#164
Almost done with the build, just electronics now. Oh, and need to change out for alloy screws when they arrive.
So..... What's the best way to free up the ball cups?
A couple of them feel a little bit tight - would prefer all nice and floppy! They certainly take quite a bit more effort to fit than other brands - not going to pop off in a hurry.
On more comparison stuff, I like the end result with the sway bars, definitely not going to be sticky or binding and will be easy to adjust - but gee they sure are a little finicky to install first go!
So..... What's the best way to free up the ball cups?
A couple of them feel a little bit tight - would prefer all nice and floppy! They certainly take quite a bit more effort to fit than other brands - not going to pop off in a hurry.
On more comparison stuff, I like the end result with the sway bars, definitely not going to be sticky or binding and will be easy to adjust - but gee they sure are a little finicky to install first go!
10-16-2015, 01:27 AM
#165
It's fiddly at first, but does get easier as you get used to them! Changing a bar only takes me a couple of minutes now, and there's usually not much detweaking needed because the whole system is so accurate. I keep an 'old school' L-shaped allen key for pushing the bearings out of the bulkheads.