aeRayls

iTrader: (3)

Lowering the ballstud is raising the roll center and raising the ballstud is lowering the roll center.

To answer your question, yes! Everything is a balance with tuning. You can make your front end too aggressive and it'll take away rear grip essentially. You can also make the rear end hook up so good that it causes the front to under steer.

WonTonsChicken

iTrader: (43)

Ahhh... I see!

Thank you sir!

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I am not affiliated with SLRC at all. So I can post a picture and a link to where you can get a light weight chassis. I cannot try to sell or push my goods on here. But that is fine, since i have no goods to push, lol. I run the kit chassis.

Mason

No news to report from this weekend. Car went wonky on me. It could be related to one or more of three things.. massive heartburn, the giant temperature swing (30 deg colder) or I think the front tires finally broke in because normally I'm looking for more steering and this past saturday was hook city. I'm pretty sure I whacked the pipe at every corner atleast once if not twice. So no straight comparison between rear 1.7s and 3x1.4 tapers. A few others ran personal bests though so kudos to me on watering the track.
To cope with my problems I moved the battery back and dropped the rear from gray to white springs. Then later on followed by a ranitidine (zantac), famotidine, probably more omeprazole (nexium), a few super tums and I might have slipped a few hail mary's in there for good measure.

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

This man is right on. The front roll center, springs, and oil are paramount to the entire mid motor car's attitude. You can only do so much with the rear of the car. The front end is so much in play on mid motor that the rear roll center is almost an afterthought, which is a very different world from rear motor.

I'll give you an example. My car was... a bit "tippy" on hard corners. Some folks were running white springs up front at our track to "get rid of twitch", but when I wanted to drive my car hard, it just collapsed in front. I went back to the gray springs and played with front roll center. Now my experience normally is that lowering the front roll center in the front gets rid of the twitch, but when I did that (2mm), it just became too aggressive at low speed. I raised the RC back up again (1mm) and tried playing with the rear roll center for a little more mid corner grip in the lower speed corners. I found that I wanted plastic + 2 in the rear, and it really made a decent improvement, but the front was still too lame when I really drove the car hard. I went up to 37.5 oil in the front and BAM that's the ticket. It was like the car level'd up, and it was all just making the front handle the speed I was throwing it in the corners with.

It was really quite eye opening. On an RM car, you can lighten up the front like crazy, but on mid motor, the front end makes or breaks you in comparison.

Wayne

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

yeah, I have noticed the same. I do a lot with the front shocks and roll centers when tuning the car. I barely touch the rear. I was fighting worn out rear foams. Now that I have new kicks on the car, I plan to go back up to grey fronts. White fronts seems a bit soft on high bite and the car was a little slow to square up. I personally dont like the 1.4 pistons though and run 1.6s front and rear.

thebombster

iTrader: (3)

Yea I have to much under steer when I drive it hard which limits me, I'm running 3x1.4's front 2x1.6's rear and white springs all around and 35wt front and 30wt rear.

Socket

iTrader: (61)

What front arms?

scrubnick

iTrader: (5)

Another perspective on the gear diff in the B5m:
I typically run on a relatively high bite clay track. I also have too many other hobbies and hate rebuilding ball diffs all the time. I spent a day trying different things with the gear diff and finally got it to where it doesn't feel much different from my ball diff. I ended up with 1000wt Hot Bodies fluid in it. It feels really light on the bench, as you would expect, but it works very well on the track. In testing on the track, I saw no statistically significant difference in laptimes which is what I was going for. The diff probably has 20-30 runs on it and its feel hasn't changed.

I admit, when I first tried it, it felt terrible and was a solid .8 slower each lap. The super light fluid made a world of difference. (All this testing was done with a 7.5 and a combination of saddle and shorty packs. I like the saddles better)

thebombster

iTrader: (3)

Flats in front rear hubs moved foward, my lap times are in the top 5 Amain but if I choose tires that are good I have no steering to I usually run new chains slightly broken in so I can drift around the corners, but I'd prefer to have more corner speed and get rid of the under steer, might try grey springs and go back to 1.6's in frontand lower my roll center front 1mm currently it is 2mm

WonTonsChicken

iTrader: (43)

Isnt lowering roll center, you put a larger washer under the ballstud? I thought thats what was described in previous posts..

thebombster

iTrader: (3)

Yea.. Adding a 1mm to the already 2mm

WonTonsChicken

iTrader: (43)

oops.. lol

Socket

iTrader: (61)

Try the gullwings with the b5m front tower.

DIRT DIGGER

iTrader: (4)

im putting the flat arms the front and back. should i move the rear hubs all the way foward to get the most bite? thanks