Fran

iTrader: (213)

That's exactly what he was saying. Plus they will come in handy when they wear out, or "collapse" as was mentioned. At a couple of bucks a set, they're worth throwing in before a race!

NomadRacer

iTrader: (9)

You might be able to figure out what springs you have by measuring the wire diameter and length with calipers and posting what you get. I notice that some manufacturers code there springs with a stripe of paint (color)... Associated not being one of them.

ogreasurada

iTrader: (1)

Planning to get into 12th, does this car use universal wheel hub? What spare part should I stock for regular maintainance? thx

irvinew

I'm having tweak issues on the left side of this car. Rear rh is 3.2, where you measure sag is 3.2, front is 3.2ish. Seems very close but I don't think I can shim my way to 3.2 at the front. It is almost 3.2 left and right at the front but i don't think they are the same. But really close.

But on certain spots like around where the trailing arms meet the chassis it can vary by as much as .2mm maybe sometimes .3mm.

Maybe .2mm is hardly losing sleep over; Ride side of the car seems very consistent. When I put a straight edge on the bottom chassis it seems square.


Any thoughts?

snopro31

iTrader: (57)

You got pm

nitro2be

iTrader: (1)

I had same thing. Ive crashed mine pretty hard couple of time and found that the screws that go into the bulk head were bent. replaced screws with new ones and replaced lower arms and car was straight again.

gee-dub

iTrader: (1)

Greetings All,

Fair warning, wall of text incoming...

Just bought an r5.2 this afternoon (editor's note: I'm sure this means a new version will be coming out in the next few weeks > >) and looking for input on electronics options. Looking for something that will support 3.5t.

ESC: I would like something with an external, portable programming box. My first choice was going to be the Reedy 410r 'black box', however I see it has been discontinued and the replacement models do not appear geared as suitable replacements. I then looked at the Orion R410 pro, which also appears to have an embedded voltage booster (a plus), however it appears out of stock everywhere (US). Thoughts on something similar that meets the above criteria would be appreciated.

Servo: Low profile, super fast @6v. Preferably something that will work in the highest frame rate with an Airtronics M12.

Voltage booster (if needed): ?

SLOWINSLOWOUT

iTrader: (20)

ORCA VX3 esc, will run 3.5T with no fan.
Sanwa SRG-HR (the HS is for low voltage but I have been running one on higher voltages for years, and is faster, both support SSR mode)

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

Programming box? Just get a LRP flow with a booster and run the 5.0 firmware 0,1,1,1,1,1,0, and run a rollout of a 35 mm with either a LRP 4.0 w/ 12.0 mm rote or Muchmore 3.5 1/12 edition.

nitro2be

iTrader: (1)

Yup. LRP flow with LRP 4.0t and perfect for me. I have not even needed a booster. I have one waiting but has not been needed .

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

Xenon VSS Front End Kit

Bubonic-X

iTrader: (4)

SMC sells a 1s ESC with a programmer check it out

Rugspin

Hobby wing has a very good ESC for 1s

NomadRacer

iTrader: (9)

I just picked up a HW 1S ESC. It comes with 12awg wires, soldered with silver content solder. Make sure you have a good soldering iron (50 watt+) to swap out to "12th scale friendly size wire).

Racermac73

iTrader: (3)

For removing the big wires I've found if you take side cutters and clip the wires off close to the solder tabs it takes far less heat and time to remove what is left. Trying to remove the wires in full generates a lot of unnecessary heat on the circuit board. Once removed TQ brand 16ga wire and TQ sensor wire are perfect to the motor as they flex very easily. TQ 1000 wire to the battery.