Bubblehead

What is your droop front/rear?

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

Could you provide your complete setup including your intended class? At what point does the rear break loose... corner entry, mid corner or corner exit?
A common thing I see a lot is incorrect droop settings are causing the suspension to be too locked down and introducing strange problems. Now that we know your shock and diff setup, we need to know where all of your other setting are at, along with track conditions. Now, the reason you have good steering is because your rear is loose so we just need to find a balance to make the car work well on both ends. You will lose some steering with a fix but the car will be more predictable.
Something you can try just for S&G... back out all 4 droop screws so that they don't touch the chassis when you suspend the car off your table. Put the car on the track and see what happens. If it's suddenly drivable, droop was you primary problem. Go back and reset your droop screws according to the manual. If your arms won't hang low enough to get the droop settings you require, simply unscrew the lower eyelets 1 full turn on each shock shaft equally as this will give you more potential droop. It's always a good idea to measure the length of each shock from the top of the eyelet shaft to the bottom of the Shock body to be sure they are all the same length.

The stock Diff oil is 40wt shock oil I think. If you are running a stock class, the 80wt is not a bad choice but the 3000cst may be too stiff unless you are running Mod. With a well balanced car, the tires won't be so critical.

MattW

Chris has had his camera phone out and taken some videos of certain aspects of his car - might be of interest to some people.

http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/rc-...ips/0000002655

Sean Cochran

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the link

iTz Nicholas72

iTrader: (19)

I tried to search and I never have luck getting the results I need so I'm going to have to be that guy and ask...

Trading my X1 for a 6.2 because USGT is the biggest class and F1 is almost non-existent.

I'm a decent driver but out track has a big wall at the end of the straightaway leading into the sweeper and if you clip the pipe you end up smacking it wide ass open.

Other than some arms, caster blocks, and hubs is there anything else I should look into ordering for spares?

I've seen some posts about running TC4 rear arms but would like to run the car for a week or two so I can get a feel for it with the factory setup.

Maybe just do the Reflex RC suspension conversion rather than getting spares...

Rick Hohwart

I would suggest carrying a rear shock tower and one each shock tower mount(bearing cap. It wouldn't hurt to have a couple of spare shock tops.

These items can break or bend if you hit the wall backwards.

irvinew

I bought the reflex rsd arms, they are supposed to be similar to the TC4 arms.

I am supposed to shim these arms and my question is what size do I shim them too.

I figured out the best way is to measure the width of the stock setup with the recommended shims, 2mm back, 1mm front.
This gives I figured about 41.8 mm for the front arms (I haven't done the back yet)

The new arms are 32.36 mm without shim so the difference is 9.44mm

If you try to eye ball it and position the new arms parallel to the old arm you get about 6mm rear of arm and 3.5 mm front.
This first try binded somewhat so I went to 6mm rear of arm and 3mm front which is smooth but gives some slop but no more than the original front. I figure I can put a .1 mm shim tonight and it should be gold. It looks like the drive cup is in the same spot as the original arm as I left one AE arm on for comparison.

Is the 6/3 a good idea with a tiny slop?, what are the pros doing; if the shimming puts the arm at a slightly different spot further back or front on the chassis matter? I race on carpet if that matters.

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

Typically, I add 3mm on the Front and Rear from stock spacing and I adjust from there.

Skip109

So what do the TC4 / RSD arms in rear do. Are they shorter?

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

Not sure about the length (I remember them to be shorter), but the effect is that the rear stays very planted, while the car rotates much better.

fredB

You can find a new setup of Grainger with TC5 front arm and TC4 rear arm on CML distribution UK or petitrc.

Thank a lot CML, .....it is the first official driver setup since the Reedy race of 2014 ....!

Help a lot.

Fred

Castradamus

iTrader: (62)

Actually the sheet says TC6 front arms and TC4 Rear.

MattW

Which would be because the TC5 and TC6 use the same front arm.........

Castradamus

iTrader: (62)

TC6.2 are not the same. TC6.2 arm has more clearance for the TC6.2 Caster block and I believe it is a shorter distance from the inner pin to the outer pin. This is the reason that most people have been change the arms. I run TC5 arms on the front of my car and I had to dremel the bottom rear of a TC6 caster block in order for it to fit and maintain the full movement in the suspension travel.

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

Don't mix up the TC5/6 parts with the TC6.1.