Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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#9451
Tech Master
Heard different opinions on eliminator. I run a tight slipper anyway so I was used to controlling things with my trigger finger. Definitely an item you can wait on until you have a chance to practice some more. FYI, I had tightened my stock slipper to the max to emulate an eliminator but still had the associated weight of a slipper. Normally, you want to back off the throttle when landing with a tight slipper or eliminator but I have not had a problem stripping idler gears to date. The 17.5 does not have the torque of my 7.5 (strip idler gears frequently on my sc10) so probably not so critical to be off the throttle on landings.
#9452
I'm looking into getting into 2wd buggy racing and I'm leaning heavily towards the B5. I'm planning on running stock for right now and my local track is indoor clay. I'm just wondering if there are any upgrade parts I should get along with the kit in order to save some time getting them later. I know I will need to spend some time getting the setup dialed in to my particular course. I'm just wondering if there are any known upgrades that improve the car overall. Thanks!
#9453
I would get the Schelle bearing kit and JC or Lundsford turnbuckles! Extra wings too! I prefer JC 6.5" wings.
#9454
I'm liking the aluminum hubs. The black ones have a really nice finish and they only added seven grams of weight to the buggy.
#9456
In stock at AMain and stormer fyi
#9457
#9458
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
Question on the D block inserts
I'm in the process of installing the aluminum C & D rear hinge pin holders. I'm using a 3.5/1 in the C holder. The D holder has me a little confused and there are no instructions. There are Left/Right arrows on these blocks. If the arrows are pointing away from each other/toward their respective hubs, it looks like it increases the rear toe in. If the arrows are pointed towards each other, it looks is decreases the toe in. But by how much? If I'm running 3.5 toe on the C block and position the D blocks pointing away from each other, how much total toe in am I running. It looks like a crap load, as in greater than 4 .
#9460
Tech Adept
#9462
Tech Regular
I'm in the process of installing the aluminum C & D rear hinge pin holders. I'm using a 3.5/1 in the C holder. The D holder has me a little confused and there are no instructions. There are Left/Right arrows on these blocks. If the arrows are pointing away from each other/toward their respective hubs, it looks like it increases the rear toe in. If the arrows are pointed towards each other, it looks is decreases the toe in. But by how much? If I'm running 3.5 toe on the C block and position the D blocks pointing away from each other, how much total toe in am I running. It looks like a crap load, as in greater than 4 .
#9463
Tried to install an Orion vortex 8.5 in my b5m and the shaft is hitting the gear cover......anyone just cut the shaft a little? I'm thinking taking the motor apart and using a cut off wheel to trim the end off. Any ideas???
#9464
Tech Regular
I'm looking into getting into 2wd buggy racing and I'm leaning heavily towards the B5. I'm planning on running stock for right now and my local track is indoor clay. I'm just wondering if there are any upgrade parts I should get along with the kit in order to save some time getting them later. I know I will need to spend some time getting the setup dialed in to my particular course. I'm just wondering if there are any known upgrades that improve the car overall. Thanks!
2. 3mm grub screws for the suspension components. They don't have to be 10mm long, I used 3mm long screws with success.
3. I glue the inserts for the front bearings into the spindles once I find the trail adjustment I like to minimize slop
4. B4 wing wedges. People are jumping through hoops with wing mount mods that can be fixed with a $3 part since the b5 wing wedge is a bit too thick(or the mounts clip holes are not tall enough)
5. 3x10mm ball studs and 3mm flanged lock nuts for the rear hubs to effectively double nut the outer ball stud on the rear camber link
6. B4 Ti camberlinks, pick a brand, the stock steel camber links are crummy but usable for a while(use light weight oil to lube when installing the ball cups, grease and wax can hydrolock the ball cups when the camber links are close to bottoming out
7. I used one shim(forgot the size) on the rear axles to get a no slop feel
8. Alloy serrated 4mm lock nuts for the wheel nuts, the stock steel on steel had a non desirable feel(felt like they were galling)
9. Using the stock plastic rear arm mounts(c+d blocks), you can shim the arms using the arm shims from a TLR22 to eliminate any slop.
10. upgrade the stock shock orings with the Xrings. I also run a shock limiter between the seals next to the guide to keep everything nice and slop free in the shock seal/guide area
These mods are less than 25 bucks total. They are not necessary, but they do eliminate ALL slop from the car and is just the attention to detail that makes a B5 perfect. You can add bling mods and alloy parts where you feel however they are not nec.
Have fun!
#9465
You could just get longer screws for the motor cover and put a 2mm washer behind the gear cover.