maslin

iTrader: (1)

Yes, it is the same body as the RS4 Sport 3 Flux and the Sprint 2, just unpainted. And unassembled... there's like 8 pieces to cut out and screw together

It's HPI 108370, you can see the headlamp buckets on the right.



http://www.amazon.com/HPI-RACING-108...ilpage_o00_s00

Cudacharger

iTrader: (4)

Thanks maslin! That's a nice kit think I'm going to pick one up.

kevin32

Light bucket sold out everywhere

Cudacharger

iTrader: (4)

Took me 5 months to get the Tamiya Porsche buckets. Don't lose the faith they pop up from time to time. Got the LED's test fitted today. Mounted the rear brake lights concealed in the rear diffuser didn't want the traditional rear led's sticking out the back. Also added some custom aluminum rear exhaust tips.

The system works plugged into ch3 on the receiver. You can operate them on and off from the transmitter using the ch3 button.

kevin32

Looking sweet!!!!! Digging the custom exhaust.

maslin

iTrader: (1)

Threw the body together, there is an option for 3d tail lamps in addition to the headlamp buckets. I chose to go with a simple paint job and stickers, more of a track toy style. I'll do one up nicer down the road.

Tamiya bright silver on the body, gunmetal on the small parts. First time I've had to build a body

RMabus

Hey All. I know this is probably buried deep somewhere in this thread but at 53 pages, I had to ask. I am trying to set my RS4 up as a general high bite street runner. I noticed the diff's were pretty stiff. Maybe that is a good thing. Anyway, I went to tune it this weekend, and put 30K up front and 7k in the rear. Anyone have any better advise?

Cudacharger

iTrader: (4)

maslin- Nice work on the GT3 body looks great! Curious to see the 3d headlight tail decals haven't seen those before...the rear diffuser gets a little tight with the small screws.

RMabus- If your going high bite only the hpi direct spools might be an option if you run steel CVD's.

maslin

iTrader: (1)

The rear "tub" has tail lamp buckets molded in. There are paint masks provided for all the windows, the front headlamp circles, and the rear tail lamps.

You would paint the outer body with clear tail lamps and headlamps, paint the separate headlight buckets (which attach with tape,) and paint the tail lights on the inner tub.

Plenty of room in there for LEDs as well, it could look very good.

deljaso

Got mine today and promptly stripped the spur gear in about 10 minutes. I didn't think I was dogging it out. Is there anything I should avoid doing in order to not have that happen again? I am totally new to this RC hobby.
Luckily I had the high speed gears already here and changed them out - and then had to adjust it about 3 times because I could hear it skipping at very low speeds. Still not sure if I missed some trick to adjusting this thing. You just twist it hard and hold it while tightening the motor mounts, right? I had a piece of paper between the gears. I ordered some Robinson racing 66t 48 pitch spur gears to put my regular pinion back in, since I don't trust myself or kids with the high speed setup yet.

wareagle84

Abrupt starting and stopping, especially with the powerful Flux motor is hard on plastic gears. The slightest misalignment with the gears will increase wear rate exponentially. I've found HPI RTR's aren't always meshed properly out of the box, as with the bodies not being properly trimmed or a screw loose here and there. Not sure who they get to build the RTR's or where QC is.
Unfortunately the stock spur gears released with this chassis are notoriously easy to strip. Upgrade to a better quality gear or even a metal gear if you don't mind the extra noise. Make sure the gears mesh properly (adjust with a normal weight paper between them) and avoid mashing the throttle and going straight from forward to reverse.

deljaso

Ahhhhhhh, that would be what I did -- a couple of reverse slides to full throttle to slide it around. Thanks for the advice! I hope I don't have the motor mounted too tightly.
I just reread the thread, I didn't realize how many people were complaining about stripping the gears. I only noticed the dogbone issues. I checked that before running, and mine have very little/no play in them -- so I'm good on that front.
It still does have the steering issue. I trim it one way and then have to trim it the other way after driving for a couple of minutes.

This car is great though, I'm not going to be doing any racing so the steering thing is a minor annoyance. I can't wait until I can find a very wide open parking lot to try it out at full speed. Popped one tire's bead when bench testing full throttle with the speed gears and a 3s. Those tires start looking like pancakes!

What I thought was low speed gear slippage seems to match youtube videos of standard brushless low speed stutter, so I think I may have it adjusted alright. My son and I are just paranoid of that slipping/skipping sound, haha.

MadMikeP

Hey guys I finally got the Yeah Racing kit installed (sorry no pic yet). We took it out to give it a test and within about 3 minutes both CVDs on the right 'lost' the pin the locks them into the diff (not sure of the name for that part). The ones on the right are still in.

Not sure what the deal is there, so the car will not move now. Really weird, anyone have that issue? Any ideas how to fix that? Can I get another pin and if so how would I keep it in.

Kinda annoyed and really dont want to put the original dog-bones back in.

Mike

MadMikeP

Well I just looked on the Yeah Racing website and the instructions for the Shafts show a set screw in the back of them to hold the pins in (says to make sure they are tight). I swear my instructions did not have that on them (I will confirm tonight when I get home and look at them). It says the pins are replaceable, any idea what size they are so I can get some?

Now more annoyed with myself for not seeing that.

Mike

wareagle84

You'll want to use a little thread lock on the set screw to make sure it holds the pin in.