InspGadgt

Well the ones for the "current" BMI car are shorter than the AE link but the current prototype uses links that are the same length. As the car is still in prototype I'm not sure yet if they are selling the new links yet. Sorry can't find where my pics are right now.

ogreasurada

iTrader: (1)

I was wondering about rebound after shock assembly, guess I got it right then, thanks a lot.

Csaari77

iTrader: (35)

I'm in the process of building my V2 and I need some help with the aluminum uprights. They are much thinner than the stock pieces and the spacers and uprights don't snug up inside the arms. How are you guys assembling them? Are you adding spacers, or are you just locking the upright against spacers and the top of the arms?

RicerX1

iTrader: (45)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/11034142-post260.html

rccartips

iTrader: (3)

Source: http://takatakanokkey.blogspot.com

Csaari77

iTrader: (35)

Thanks for the quick reply. I figured it was already posted somewhere, but I can't use search from my phone.

rccartips

iTrader: (3)

11 August 2012 - My friend Taka finally decided to test his new Tamiya F104 version 2 against his already very fast Tamiya F104 t-bar car.

Full review here.

Mr.juarez

iTrader: (37)

thank you sir.

Telinoz1975

I'm about 70% through my build of the F104 V2 kit + the upgrades as per the Tamiya USA guide (which has been great, the low profile servo is the way to go).
I hate tierods!!
I did it the hard way (hand + pliers = pain) as I don't have the right tools (on order now for next kit build). Whinge over...

I'm also building a Xray T3 2012 kit, already got a Hudy 1/10 wheel balancer for the touring wheels.
Now, I've had a look for wheel balancer adaptors for these F1 cars and can't seem to find anything.
I guess it doesn't help when the Front wheels fit over 2 bearings the Rear wheels are over 14mm Hex nut size!

Has anyone found/made a wheel balancer for Tamiya wheels/TRG wheels?

At the moment, I'm thinking about hacking a front upright (I have the adjustable ones, so may use the plastic kit one) and then putting a 4mm thread so it fits onto Hudy unit.
For the rears maybe a 4mm spacer/thread 14mm Hex custom job to extend off the Hudy 4mm thread.
Both require some thought and time to make, so looking for options before I spend a few hours on this.

bosfan

How do you adjust the rear droop

BadSign

iTrader: (15)

lengthen or shorten the main shock shaft by tightening or loosening the adjuster. Shorter shaft, less droop. longer shaft, more droop.

waswadener

iTrader: (72)

Du-Bro's Tru-Spin Prop Balancer PN 499 does a real nice job balancing F1 rears and other remote control car wheels.

F1 fronts rotate so freely on the car itself that the fronts can be balanced with the wheels on the car but fronts can also be balanced with the Du-Bro Tru-Spin.

SquirrelCZE

Hello

I just tested my own F104Pro Ver. II on our local track and it was.... PERFECT I was surprised how it was going out of the box....

anyway, there is one thing wondering me, It's alum servo mount... I've got the plastic one, but I just can't see a point in buying the alum one...

What's the difference between alum/plastic on track? Or to be correct, is it worth buying?

bosfan

Do your shocks compress all the way because mine do not did I do something wrong?

RicerX1

iTrader: (45)

Did you remember to drill the hole on the shock cap / top ball end?