Atomicsickness

iTrader: (26)

Ok I guess I read your statement wrong. Most of the time you will see people running the same number insert as the number of shims that are behind the axial. So say if I ran 4 shims behind axial I would run the insert that was full trailing.

I currently run 3 shims in the back with the hex mod that is the same as the number 3 trailing insert.

scr8pn4205

How are people liking the +8 carbon 8-racing chassis of the 210 for indoor offroad?

scr8pn4205

How are people liking the +8 carbon chassis for the 210 for indoor offroad compared to the stk alum chassis

Azagar

iTrader: (7)

This brings up something I asked a while back when the front hex mod first started, since I see more drivers with it now can anyone take on of their old front axels and line it up and see what trailing the hex mod actually gives.

Atomicsickness

iTrader: (26)

I did a few pages back. It looks 3mm to me.

Azagar

iTrader: (7)

It sure does, thanks a lot for that must have missed that post. Gonna be switching to 3mm in preparation for when that hex option is fully out.

Jonny5

iTrader: (19)

Cush really likes his. The added length gives more stability which is the biggest difference, but the lighter weight helps too. The car just looks like it corners and jumps with less effort. A pricey option, but has been totally worth it for him with many wins to back up that claim since installing it.

M3Armand

I'm in the middle of my DEX210 build. I am super impressed by the quality of the parts and the fit/finish of them. NOT so impressed with the instructions. I mean, how can Japanese companies have BETTER instructions that an English company...there's no excuse for that. Simple visual keys in the instructions like the positioning of the parts on the page. On page 19, for instance, the instructions show the left assembly on the right side of the page and right assembly on the left side of the page...

But my main question is, has anyone stripped the plastic from continuous assembly/disassembly? The plastic and screw combination just seems like it would easily strip. It feels like you can easily strip the plastic since it's not too difficult to overtorque the screws...

Thoughts?

t8rtot

iTrader: (14)

Durango isn't american.. The chief in charge Gerd, he's like german..

zipperfoot

iTrader: (16)

I have found over torquing to be an issue with any plastic kit. The key for me is to tighten everything snug. I never give it that "one last turn" and never tighten down screws with an electric screwdriver. I use one, but stop before the screws hit bottom, and use hand tools the rest of the way.

And finally Durango is registered in the UK. I think they speak English over there...

M3Armand

I didn't say "American".... I said "English"...i.e. = UK/Great Britain.

DBL15

iTrader: (8)

i love mine as well i dont know if its the carbon chassis or the fact that it is 8 mm longer ? but as of now i am faster with my 17.5 blinky 8mm car then i am with with Mod car lol and i have got the same set up in both just the stock car is lighter with 8mm chassis , this is on a 18 to 20 second indoor clay track

i really want to try the plastic 8mm version thats coming out as well on the mod car i hope that has the same effect

Jonny5

iTrader: (19)

+1, I do the same. I have two electric drivers and one has a clutch. I've found that for anything but really long screws that thread in fully (like the front bulkhead) even the lowest clutch setting is too tight. Stop just before it bottoms out and finish by hand.

Pvd brett

iTrader: (13)

i simply super glue the screws going into plastic and dont over tighten them, works perfect for me, i just turn the driver until it it finger tight, the glue holds it in place

the instructions are reletively simple as long as you pay attention and don't rush. I had no problems in my build and got through it very easily

t8rtot

iTrader: (14)

Still would be an incorrect statement since the founder is German.

Anyway, is there an eta on the alum. +8 chassis from TD