German Muscle

iTrader: (8)

Here you guys go. some X-Dyno Information.

Colt4g63

iTrader: (8)

I would recommend a Novarossi 9886 pipe for this engine. It has proven itself on my dyno sheets above stock and modified. This engine is by far one of my favorite .21 buggy/truggy mills out there.

xspower

iTrader: (4)

Are you speaking of the standard or the turbo. The standard is the same length as the Nova plug. If you are speaking of the turbo the picco's have c's and f's like Nova the c is hot same and the f is cold same. This is the length is how they control the heat of the element for the plug. so the Nova number is C6TF this is a cold 6 turbo. The Picco plug would be P6TF that would be the turbo 6 picco. Also they do not interchange the turbos have a different taper to them. The standard will fit as it is explained up above. Most all pipes will "hit" just when and for the most part you would not know a huge difference if you are running in the parking lot. I have no experience with 9886 pipeset. The Dyno can definitely tell alot of the power curve but I have really not found a pipeset that works well on a tight hard track other then the Picco on a Picco for offroad. I know they used Nova pipesets in the past on some Picco onroad. But again no info for the offroad found hear. One more thing I am assuming that the green band is the 9886 and the others are what?

stiffler297

[QUOTE=xspower;3766443]Are you speaking of the standard or the turbo. The standard is the same length as the Nova plug. If you are speaking of the turbo the picco's have c's and f's like Nova the c is hot same and the f is cold same. This is the length is how they control the heat of the element for the plug. so the Nova number is C6TF this is a cold 6 turbo. The Picco plug would be P6TF that would be the turbo 6 picco. Also they do not interchange the turbos have a different taper to them. The standard will fit as it is explained up above.QUOTE]

The back of the package shows 2 different types for hot and cold. The F are hot to cold with the long body and the C is the hot to cold with the short body. I will try the C's and see how those work out. Thanks XS!

aussies1129

iTrader: (74)

help!!! I am running in my P7 but cant even get it going cause it keeps on seizing at top dead centre gotta then pull it out of the car and turn the fly wheel by hand what a drama????its so tight has anyone got any suggestions to get it freed up as i am doing my head in???
thanks

PTP Racing

iTrader: (2)

Does anyone have a link to a header that will fit the angled picco exhaust correctly and link to a normal pipe? I wanna try a 086 but my Drake header will not mate up.

DR ZAIRUS

Ok!! First of all, take it easy.
2- get apowerfull starter box, make sure your ignitor is well charged and the plug is good.
3- take out the glow plug and put a couple drops of after run oil in , so the piston is well lubricated.
4-Try starting the motor with a loose glow plug and when it starts, tighten it up.
5- You might want to try a different (dry) plug in case this one is too wet with gas.
6- Don't flood the motor: Start it with factory settings and after it's started, ritchen it up for breaking in.

I hope this helps!!!

Colt4g63

iTrader: (8)

Both dyno runs were made with a 9886 novarossi pipe set with a short conical header. The lower #s being the stock engine and the higher numbers being the engine after I modified it. I am running this engine in a Mugen 5T and it has all the bottom end you could ever want with amazing top end!

xspower

iTrader: (4)

[QUOTE=stiffler297;3766851]No problem glad to help out.

Maximo

iTrader: (11)

the Mugen MSR 2053 as well as the JP-3 give the P7 awesome bottom end hit, excelent for short tight tracks....... i cant seem to find a Picco 069, but i would love to find one to tst...

DR ZAIRUS

I'm using an Ofna 053 at the moment and it seems to work fine bottom and mid revs.....I haven't reached the top yet, hehehehe, the motor streches foreeeeeever....I'd love to try the 9886 or the 069!!!

xspower

iTrader: (4)

I will assume that this engine is new and also that the engine is cold right? If so Please whatever you do, DO NOT try to start the engine cold and have it stick. NOT GOOD!!!! When you start the engine when it is new there is a little know fact that what is happening within the first say 1 min or so of the engines life is what will make that engine be the rest of it's life. Let me explain a bit. When the engine is new we all know that the parts are tight. Ok then with this in mind what do you think is happening when the engine is stone cold with tight parts. If you thought it was wear then you are right. Man I have seen so so so many engines wasted in the first 3 tanks then from anything else. The correct way to get the engine a good break in and good fit of the piston/sleeve is put the engine in the chassis and make sure the flywheel is attached. NO CLUTCH. nest go and get yourself a heatgun not a hairdryer. Heat the engine with the chassis aligned on the starter box and make sure there is fuel and all. Get the engine to around 180 to 190 degree's with the heat gun. Heat the case and the heatsink as well. Then start the engine it will wing over fine and there will be no premature wear as the parts are not so tight they make noise and are sticking. The sticking at the top is mechanical pinch. Yes there will be some but the more you get it away and looser for the sart in the beginning the less damage you will have to the engine. Keep the heat on the engine and let it run up to around 210 to 220 degree's high idle nice and easy. Use the fuel you are going to use when the motor is ready. break in fuel is not what we have found to be the "Golden Key". What I am explaining up above is. Do this for a few cycles. When I mean cycle's we heatthe engine and run 2 tanks straight never letting the engine temp drop below 210 to 220 when running. That is using the heat gun. Do this a few time. The cycle is 2 tanks straight then cool down. The repeat. You should be ok after around 6 to 8 tanks of fuel and 3 to 4 cycles. Cooling is not done by vlowing cool air. It is letting it cool down normally by sitting. Try it you should not have a problem. When you are done with the break in put the clutch in and run it on the track nice and easy but let the engine get hot. No I am running it at 140 degree's and the car does not come on the pipe. Get it over 200 and run easy. You should be good in another 10 tanks or so. I am saying 10 it may be a little less or more. Each engine is fit different. Leaning the engine out slowly each tank. Hope it helps we still have engines from 1 year ago running fine no problems. Like I said the most important time is the first few min. of the start when new.

aussies1129

iTrader: (74)

thanks guys I will give all your advise a go
cheers!

stiffler297

According to Ofna, the Nova plugs will work however, you can only put them in after the engine is a running temp. The threads and the body are a bit different to and it changes the threading. Once you change to the Nova plugs, you have to stay with the Nova plugs.

xspower

iTrader: (4)

That is Wrong I hate to say it. The threads on the plugs are identical in the pitch and diameter the difference is where the plug taper is. The actual taper on a Nova plug is shallower then the Picco. So I have no idea who you spoke with, but I will tell you that if you run the Nova plug in the Picco engine that it will indeed tighten up and it will indeed run but there will be no way that the plug will seal properly or for that matter the way it was designed to into the head. And so you know that this is the truth, I import the IDM engine line which has a Picco base and before this I was a distributor for the Nova line so the two plugs are not the same will not fit the same or work the same. I would not thread the plug into the head it will damage the taper and therefore not seal right and cause a air leak and you will chase the needle from it like you would chase a dog around the park. So the lesson here is DO NOT use a Nova plug inside a Picco engine.