Tub Cyclone `S`
10-09-2006, 05:23 PM
#166
If you turn the bearing housing around the diff back one time, maybe two it seems smoother. I only did this in the rear. The factory setting seemed way to tight and sounded awful when I ran it.
10-10-2006, 08:31 AM
#167
On my first two runs with the kit i stripped two center pulleys. I pulled out the one-way i had installed and i havent had any problems with the center pulley since (about another 5 runs later).
My thinking that similar to the Pro 4 smashing bevel gears with a one-way the one-way in the cyclone s puts excessive stress on the front drive. 3 Racing is coming out with aluminium centre pulleys but they arent out yet
And yeah i think im going to be hopping up my stuff with 3 racing stuff. Looks like i can upgrade almost to a full cyclone level for the same price
For now i'm just running a diff up front till i decide if i want to upgrade the centre pulley system to the full cyclone setup or not.
With the diff housing on the rear mine also made a horrid noise and i turned mine around 180 degrees to loosen the rear belt up.
My thinking that similar to the Pro 4 smashing bevel gears with a one-way the one-way in the cyclone s puts excessive stress on the front drive. 3 Racing is coming out with aluminium centre pulleys but they arent out yet
And yeah i think im going to be hopping up my stuff with 3 racing stuff. Looks like i can upgrade almost to a full cyclone level for the same price
For now i'm just running a diff up front till i decide if i want to upgrade the centre pulley system to the full cyclone setup or not.
With the diff housing on the rear mine also made a horrid noise and i turned mine around 180 degrees to loosen the rear belt up.
10-10-2006, 09:14 AM
#168
Whats with 3racing?
I bought a heatsink w/cooling fan from them and they went off the meter. The amount of Hop-ups they have available for the Cyclone will have my "S" blinged out for cheap. Anyone buy their stuff yet for the Cyclone? Any sizing problems? Durability?
10-11-2006, 09:03 AM
#170
Cool. Now I have another dilema....DIFFS! This problem has plagued me since I started with R/C...BALL DIFFS!. Put the diffs together exactly the way they are in the instructions inclunding using thread lock (the tub instructions mention nothing of thread lock ever) and five minutes into testing my new car, felt like I was driving with a one way. After 5 minutes, the rear diff went and it was almost like driving with two one ways with the rear having a slipper clutch. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
10-11-2006, 10:37 AM
#171
Originally Posted by bxpitbull
Cool. Now I have another dilema....DIFFS! This problem has plagued me since I started with R/C...BALL DIFFS!. Put the diffs together exactly the way they are in the instructions inclunding using thread lock (the tub instructions mention nothing of thread lock ever) and five minutes into testing my new car, felt like I was driving with a one way. After 5 minutes, the rear diff went and it was almost like driving with two one ways with the rear having a slipper clutch. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hmmm I am not sure what exact problem you are having, but usually after you have built your diff you should run your car for a minute or two. Then you should check your diff to see if it is loose and adjust accordingly. I know on the Pro 4 the diffs had the above problem because of the diff nut. But I corrected that by using a TC4 diff nut and screw. I am not sure if the Cyclone has that issue too.
10-11-2006, 10:40 AM
#172
Pretty much the same internals as the Pro4. I will check it tonight. It figures after all that crappola I talk about belts and I get one and have a problem the first time out the gate. But, I must admit, when it did run (all of 5 minutes), it was smooth as heck and tracked nicely. Had a funny whir to it that I didnt expect, but I think that will str8en itself out once the belts relax a bit.
10-11-2006, 09:15 PM
#174
I'm running a 76T 48 pitch spur in mine and a co27/komodo likes somewhere in the order of a 25-28T pinion
28T is a little high for the komodo though.
With regards to the diffs i haven't had any problems but then i dont run brushless.
My Cyclone S came with heavy duty diff nuts which seemed to be hard to find, when i went looking for them a couple of months back, for the Pro 4. I havent had any problems with the diffs but then i dont run brushless.
However i have heard that its important not to over tighten a diff and at the same time i guess you (especially) dont want it too loose with that kind of power. I've never used locktite on a diff screw **SHRUG**
With the 3 Racing shock towers, I havent got them, but make sure you get the right ones for the Cyclone S, as they have the mountings for the upper camber links on them.
28T is a little high for the komodo though.
With regards to the diffs i haven't had any problems but then i dont run brushless.
My Cyclone S came with heavy duty diff nuts which seemed to be hard to find, when i went looking for them a couple of months back, for the Pro 4. I havent had any problems with the diffs but then i dont run brushless.
However i have heard that its important not to over tighten a diff and at the same time i guess you (especially) dont want it too loose with that kind of power. I've never used locktite on a diff screw **SHRUG**
With the 3 Racing shock towers, I havent got them, but make sure you get the right ones for the Cyclone S, as they have the mountings for the upper camber links on them.
Last edited by mangoman; 10-11-2006 at 10:15 PM.
10-12-2006, 06:46 AM
#175
You state (twice in fact) that you dont run brushless...why would that have any bearing on the diffs? I built the diffs the same exact way Hara did on his his cyclone build up (he too used threadlock). Turns out that the metal shields that go on the inner portion of the outdrives (the parts that ride the bearings) melted. I tighten per the instructions but oh well. Now here is the kicker, when I was beating my drums for shaft, there were guys in the Cyclone thread that stated that parts for the Cyclone were abound and plentiful. Well, I was looking around to hop up the "S", and many parts are on back order! 
So, if a fella wanted to get the aluminum outdrives, graphite chassis and many other parts, where does one go???
So, if a fella wanted to get the aluminum outdrives, graphite chassis and many other parts, where does one go???
Last edited by bxpitbull; 10-12-2006 at 09:16 AM.
10-12-2006, 08:56 AM
#176
Ok there must be something going on here with the diffs... but is it the diffs? I guess what I mean is my REAR diff has loosened up each race night so far (3 races). But only the rear.. front seems to be hold fine....guess I could the TC4 diff nut and screw and try that but why only the rear? Hmmmmm I've got an enduro coming up in a couple months and need to run this car 20-30 mins at a time. Right now I might make it 10 before the diff goes.
10-12-2006, 09:02 AM
#177
I use the AE diff screws and nuts in my surikarn. It seems to work well. I adjust my diffs so they have a little wobble in the diff gears, but not too much. That seems to be the sweet spot. Do not over tightened them. Run it a little bit then check it. It will take a little running to get everything seated.
For the a Surikarn style outdrives I got them from Champs in Japan, they also come in stock from time to time at Speedtech. They come with a set of blades as well. I would recommend a few extra packs of blades in your box just incase.
For the a Surikarn style outdrives I got them from Champs in Japan, they also come in stock from time to time at Speedtech. They come with a set of blades as well. I would recommend a few extra packs of blades in your box just incase.
10-12-2006, 09:03 AM
#178
When someone gets some good S setups together, please send them to [email protected] and I will get them posted on the site. In the FAQ section I posted a list of parts to put the Surikarn layshaft and pulleys in the S. This was taken from this forum and posted with credit to whom posted it. Also, if someone has the S setup sheet in pdf form please send it and I will post that as well.