Loheswaran

Hi mate

I appreciate that.

Can I also ask can springs like HPI Pinks and Silvers fit, or are they too long?

thanks

Lohan

Fredp1

iTrader: (11)

Hopefully someone has tried them, but what overall length are they and what is the inside diameter?
The vbc are about 22.5mm long and 13.8mm inside diameter.

midse

iTrader: (8)

I've got Team Powers Radon V2 ESC, Team Powers Actinium 13.5 and Team Powers 6200mah 100c lightweight 285g lipo, Team powers X booster Futaba Bls551 servo and Futaba R614FFe receiver. Twin WTF 40mm fans for hot summers. Hiro Seiko Ti below and alloy on top...Kit steel screws on the top deck to avoid tweak that alloy allows.
Alloy rear body post wing stiffener.
Alloy front spool with Roche out drives - VBC steel out drives at rear. Roche/Radtec Dcj. Protoform lightweight body ...Mazda speed 6
Volante V5
1385g....
I have had it down to 1330grams with the same body but different parts/shorter wiring.

Correct setup is a lot more important than lowering the weight

DBM

I feel that I'm pretty close on setup, but also feel that carrying around 40g of extra weight is not good.
I installed a stock soft spec-r bumper which saved 10.1g. Lighter lipo is next on my list.
I assume you are running the cf chassis? The aluminum chassis is a good bit heavier which makes getting down to 1380 pretty tricky. I'm sticking with the cf chassis.

tcb22185

iTrader: (61)

I'm in the middle of building my D07 and I can't get the lf hub figgerd out. It keeps binding up at the axle. Other than that this kit rocks. Can't wait to get it on the track. I love the laser arowes on the turnbuckles. More kits need to do this.

Loheswaran

Dear chaps

I tried my wildfire out yesterday and found that the kit setting gave the car a tendency to keep losing the back on corner entry in high grip carpet. I thought it was my driving so I got one of the better drivers to have a go, and they had the same problem.

Question:
1. Is that what others have experienced with the car?
2. Which is the best set up that doesn't need optional parts (i have loads of oils and shims)

let me know
thanks

XSLR8

What rear Diff oil are you using? what motor?

Loheswaran

Hi mate

I have used all the oils as per the kit - i think that's 1000. I did think thiss may well be the problem. I have 3000, 7000, and 10,000 available. I was thinking of trying out the 7000

Rodney Racer

iTrader: (1)

Adjust your droop settings and you should be able to fix this problem.

nicoo2k4

Hello,
For high traction carpet, you can start with this setup : http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/vbcracing/setupwildfired07/WFD07_NicolasDelise_Longwy20150222/

It's my basic setup for carpet. Easy and fast!

XSLR8

[QUOTE=Loheswaran;14101711]Hi mate

I have used all the oils as per the kit - i think that's 1000. I did think thiss may well be the problem. I have 3000, 7000, and 10,000 available. I was thinking of trying out the 7000


Your diff oil is to light, depending on which class you run I would start at the 3000 (minimum) for slower classes and work your way up to 10,000-15,000 for modified, this is where it is handy having spare diffs with different oils already to go.
Also I would check your rear droop settings as having to much rear droop could also be a factor.

Loheswaran

[QUOTE=XSLR8;14102755]Mi M8

I have put some 7k in the diff, as it was my 'in between' oil - I will report back - I like doing 1 set up change at a time, so, here goes

Loheswaran

Dear all

I thought I would post some of findings this weekend.

I found kit set-up far too loose at the back - very tetchy and difficult to drive (on carpet)
put 7000 wt diff oil - car fealt much better and more stable - unfortunately tyre screatch continued unabated.
I then decided to detach the roll bars, and the car came alive - much more sete pin carriertled into corners and smother - 1 second a lap improvement from 12.55 too 11.50
Next big change was to add a bit of front anti-dive whereby i placed o.5 shim under the front inner hinge holder.
again another improvement from 1150 to 11.42
I moved the inner links at the back upwards - problem was I ran out of time.
This car is very sensitive to set up changes - more so than my last car - Xray 2012 - it is a lovely piece of kit

thanks

Lohan

midse

iTrader: (8)

I had my best run last week with a RW PF speed 6 and a friends 340g lipo. Very high grip track using Volante 28 prepped with LRP carpet. on a cold night. Pretty sure it was up around the 1450g mark.

If you're intent on staying with the alloy chassis then contact Paul at Bezerk Rc on facebook. Let him know your setup and track type/conditions. He can mill reliefs ( for flex) into a VBC Alu chassis or from a new blank to suit your needs. Be mindful that Alu. chassis are effectively a one hit wonder. Once they're bent, they're done. His CF and Alu. parts have been aboard many local and international title winning cars. I think even one of his D07 alloy chassis placed at a major Euro event.


https://m.facebook.com/BezerkRc?refs...com%2FBezerkRc

DBM

I milled my aluminum chassis a couple of weeks after I bought the car (I have a little milling machine in my shop....nothing fancy). Serpent employ a 2mm aluminum chassis in the eryx 3.0, but it is milled down to 1mm under the battery and electronics. I didn't want to go that far, so I removed 0.7mm which resulted in a 18g weight savings, but is still heavier than the thick 2.5mm cf chassis.
My car is already heavy on the batter side with a 307g battery. I made new battery holders to move the battery closer to the center of the car, too. Running a 340g lipo would make the car ~60g heavier on the battery side than the motor side. I can't see that being a good thing, unless the track is all right turns.