FORCE .25 PISTON STOPS AT TOP OF SLEEVE!!!!! HELP!!
#1
FORCE .25 PISTON STOPS AT TOP OF SLEEVE!!!!! HELP!!
Alright, i just got this LX pro buggy and it came with an ofna force .25 and i take the buggy out, start it and run it for a bit every other day then put it away and today it was working fine until about 1/3 tank of running then it just stoped running. i couldnt pull start it so i checked out the pull start and it was fine, so i tried moving the flywheel and found out that the piston is stopped at the top of the sleeve and wont crank any further. any suggestions?
#6
Tech Fanatic
Just sell it to me for $25 because you 're obviously incapable of figuring out the most basic nitro engine workings even after having read most every thread and asked nearly every question. Get some patience. All of your answers are available by using the "search" feature.
#7
im asking for help dumb@$$, and obviosly YOU are incapable of giving any.
can some one actually help im not firmilliar with force engines.
and i cant get the head off due to the guy i bought it from got some locktite in the place where the hex wrench goes and it got stripped out.
P.S. i looked through threads satoch
can some one actually help im not firmilliar with force engines.
and i cant get the head off due to the guy i bought it from got some locktite in the place where the hex wrench goes and it got stripped out.
P.S. i looked through threads satoch
Last edited by jatoman1992; 10-02-2007 at 07:06 PM.
#8
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Both the LX Pro and the Force .25 are pretty old models. On top of that you say you got it used and have been running it previously, now it is stuck. Sounds to me like it's possibly worse off than that. You should pull the engine out and take off the back plate (i.e. pull start first, then backplate). See if it's damaged or the rod is snapped. Anything along those lines. I also suggest you find a way to get the head off and do a complete inspection of the engine and bearings.
I've never stripped a head bolt, but I hear you can use a dremel tool with a cut off wheel and coming in from the side cut the top off the head bolt. There are other ways too, but like I said I've (luckilly) never had to utilize them. Let us know what you find.
Scott
I've never stripped a head bolt, but I hear you can use a dremel tool with a cut off wheel and coming in from the side cut the top off the head bolt. There are other ways too, but like I said I've (luckilly) never had to utilize them. Let us know what you find.
Scott
#9
Both the LX Pro and the Force .25 are pretty old models. On top of that you say you got it used and have been running it previously, now it is stuck. Sounds to me like it's possibly worse off than that. You should pull the engine out and take off the back plate (i.e. pull start first, then backplate). See if it's damaged or the rod is snapped. Anything along those lines. I also suggest you find a way to get the head off and do a complete inspection of the engine and bearings.
I've never stripped a head bolt, but I hear you can use a dremel tool with a cut off wheel and coming in from the side cut the top off the head bolt. There are other ways too, but like I said I've (luckilly) never had to utilize them. Let us know what you find.
Scott
I've never stripped a head bolt, but I hear you can use a dremel tool with a cut off wheel and coming in from the side cut the top off the head bolt. There are other ways too, but like I said I've (luckilly) never had to utilize them. Let us know what you find.
Scott
u are lucky, it has happened to me twice all thanks to people using loc-tite wrong. im guessing what ever is wrong has to be coming from area around the head.
or should i get a new motor
#10
Can you move the flywheel at all? If there is any movement in the flywheel then there is a good chance that the rod is shot. You might not see it if it happened up at the piston. Also, take out your glow plug and look for any debris. One more thing, what happened when it died? Was it running fine then just shut off instantly like someone flipped a switch? These are all bad signs. I hope I'm wrong but unfortunately I've had a little experience with that! LOL. Good luck! Other than a shot conrod there is just no reason why you shouldn't be able to somehow force it off of TDC.
#11
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Well now that you throw that into the equation.
If you can swing it go for it. Force engines are basically RTR quality anyway. Then you can tear this one all the way down to it's bare components. You will gain a greater understanding of nitro engines and how they work once you've done that. And what better engine to learn on than one that isn't working anyway.
If you can swing it go for it. Force engines are basically RTR quality anyway. Then you can tear this one all the way down to it's bare components. You will gain a greater understanding of nitro engines and how they work once you've done that. And what better engine to learn on than one that isn't working anyway.
#12
try using a flat head screw driver and pry the flywheel, it should move if the engine is in good condition.
#13
Tech Fanatic
You can cut the heads off of the screws on many engines by going between the cooling fins. Remove the head and button. And then heat the screws with a soldering iron. Use Vice Grips to remove them. Then replace with new screws. I've done it.
Then disassemble the engine as normal to find the problem.
Then disassemble the engine as normal to find the problem.
#14
Can you move the flywheel at all? If there is any movement in the flywheel then there is a good chance that the rod is shot. You might not see it if it happened up at the piston. Also, take out your glow plug and look for any debris. One more thing, what happened when it died? Was it running fine then just shut off instantly like someone flipped a switch? These are all bad signs. I hope I'm wrong but unfortunately I've had a little experience with that! LOL. Good luck! Other than a shot conrod there is just no reason why you shouldn't be able to somehow force it off of TDC.
#15
You can cut the heads off of the screws on many engines by going between the cooling fins. Remove the head and button. And then heat the screws with a soldering iron. Use Vice Grips to remove them. Then replace with new screws. I've done it.
Then disassemble the engine as normal to find the problem.
Then disassemble the engine as normal to find the problem.
i might just take it to my LHS and see if they have a tool long enough to chop the top off.