Tamiya mini cooper
#136
Difuser, what's your initial setup for this weekend. Anybody got tips on breking in a mabuchi. I got a couple of ways but really curious what the mini cooper guys do with these motors. I got an old mabuch[15 yrs old] and never used. Are those still good and any tips on breaking it in?
#137
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
I was at least .5 to 1.3 a lap quicker last year with the 19T pinion over the M03. In A1 and A2 I lapped up to 4th position with the M04. Corner speed the 03 dosen't stand a chance they do turn-in harder but mod to end the 04 will walk on the 03. The key is the front tires most set the car up with the SG radial. With B's the car is a whole different animal.
For break-in water dip is the only way to go leave about 2-3mm in the center and it is just right anymore and the motor will start dragging by the end of the mains. Can the Buchi Old Johnsons are the only way for open club racing the new Johnsons have big torque but not alot of rpm a good one runs in the 12K range. For Nats a little tip for those participating. It is tempting to run the old worn-in motors that have the big HP and big RPM but you WON'T be racing this motor. Get yourself a brand new johnson and break it in at the track or home and spend this week with it and maximise the speed it gives. Last year the gearbox rumors flew when I stayed the same speed as I had been doing all week in practice and most of the others lost .2-.7 a lap. Guess what I had been practicing all week with new motors we were going to race on Sat and Sun. Save the good voltage for when nobody is looking.
Sorry it's so long
For break-in water dip is the only way to go leave about 2-3mm in the center and it is just right anymore and the motor will start dragging by the end of the mains. Can the Buchi Old Johnsons are the only way for open club racing the new Johnsons have big torque but not alot of rpm a good one runs in the 12K range. For Nats a little tip for those participating. It is tempting to run the old worn-in motors that have the big HP and big RPM but you WON'T be racing this motor. Get yourself a brand new johnson and break it in at the track or home and spend this week with it and maximise the speed it gives. Last year the gearbox rumors flew when I stayed the same speed as I had been doing all week in practice and most of the others lost .2-.7 a lap. Guess what I had been practicing all week with new motors we were going to race on Sat and Sun. Save the good voltage for when nobody is looking.
Sorry it's so long
#138
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Sipa initial set-up
New Red or Yellow front spring Red or yellow rear
50wt or so oil ft 30 rear
Should give you a decent starting point Swaybars I never ran on the 03 so I have no info there sorry
A's only for tires vary insert to get the steering you want on the front.
L looks to be the car this year but not sure we'll see tommorrow.
New Red or Yellow front spring Red or yellow rear
50wt or so oil ft 30 rear
Should give you a decent starting point Swaybars I never ran on the 03 so I have no info there sorry
A's only for tires vary insert to get the steering you want on the front.
L looks to be the car this year but not sure we'll see tommorrow.
#139
Tech Elite
iTrader: (32)
Yeah sipaboy,I think I will stay with my setup.Did you and balatico battle it out?Thats cool you finished 2nd.I am not going down to TCS as I just dont have time right now.But see you for sure at Hobbytown 2 weeks from saturday. This has been my most fun RC investment so far this year.My setup goes like this.
Front
3.5 mm at lowest point on chassis
Blue TRF short springs.
70 weight oil 2 hole piston in plastic cva shocks.
Shock length 56.5mm with 3 black orings inside.
.5 degree toe out on each wheel.
Hard sway bar.
Type A tires with firm foam insert.
Rear
6mm ride height
Yellow TRF short spring
25 weight 2hole piston in cva shock
Shock length 56.5mm with 3 black orings inside.
2 degree toe in carriers.
Hard sway bar.
Type a tires with firm foam inserts.
I cant get mine to traction roll at all.Everyone always complains that they have problems.I even have my electronics high for now and still no problem.Our track has good medium grip so we are good there.Anywas,If others can post there setups so I can compare ,I would appreciate it greatly.Last saturday was my first race and man it was a blast.
Front
3.5 mm at lowest point on chassis
Blue TRF short springs.
70 weight oil 2 hole piston in plastic cva shocks.
Shock length 56.5mm with 3 black orings inside.
.5 degree toe out on each wheel.
Hard sway bar.
Type A tires with firm foam insert.
Rear
6mm ride height
Yellow TRF short spring
25 weight 2hole piston in cva shock
Shock length 56.5mm with 3 black orings inside.
2 degree toe in carriers.
Hard sway bar.
Type a tires with firm foam inserts.
I cant get mine to traction roll at all.Everyone always complains that they have problems.I even have my electronics high for now and still no problem.Our track has good medium grip so we are good there.Anywas,If others can post there setups so I can compare ,I would appreciate it greatly.Last saturday was my first race and man it was a blast.
#141
Tech Elite
iTrader: (32)
Its really good.the car rotates so well,I was shocked.The car turned in well but not too hard.Rear was not over-planted but just enough.I have to admit,I know nothing about 540 motors,but I will tell you that my new johnson motor that came with the Kit,{M03}was a dog before I dipped it.After,it was fast.Alot of the guys that I ran against that had there stuff together for awhile now were wondering if I was cheating.Or at least wondering what I did to the motor.I would get on the straight away and go right by everyone like they were standing still.Is this basically the luck of the draw with these motors?I dipped my for about 2.5 hours off and on and after oiled the bushings and put prolong on the brushes.Is there other rituals to squeeze out more power?Also where are people getting the old johnson 540's from?
thanks!
thanks!
#142
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Old personal inventory they are like gold if you have 'em.
As far as the rest you are spot on for prep. Other than water dip I only do it long enough to leave a centerstrip of untouched comm of 2-3mm. If that makes sense.
The new Johnsons will give you alot of dig off the turn if you are holding speed onto the straight you can really use it to your advantage.
As far as the rest you are spot on for prep. Other than water dip I only do it long enough to leave a centerstrip of untouched comm of 2-3mm. If that makes sense.
The new Johnsons will give you alot of dig off the turn if you are holding speed onto the straight you can really use it to your advantage.
#144
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Not sure exactly I think it has more to do with the way the brush wears on the old can it advances the time in the motor???
RPM difference is about 3K on a good one more like 1500-2 on an avg one.
The endbell is crimped different and not plastic in it. It is hard to describe what to look for. I know it by sight but can't put it into words
RPM difference is about 3K on a good one more like 1500-2 on an avg one.
The endbell is crimped different and not plastic in it. It is hard to describe what to look for. I know it by sight but can't put it into words
#145
I was traction rolling in the RCCAR track. Too much traction compared to our local Tamiya track[Hobbytown USA].Found 2 old old mabuchi. They have a plastic end compared to the new johnson 540. One is original Tamiya and the other says Kyosho and a little golden color on the can. The endbell is all plastic . Any tips on reviving these babies or do I just break them in like a new motor[water dip ]. Advantage of these? And what difference will I notice compared to the new silver can.
#147
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
Originally posted by sipaboy
Yes, full blood pinoy here. Born and raised in Manila but living in California. Letran boy and grew up in BF homes Paranaque.
Yes, full blood pinoy here. Born and raised in Manila but living in California. Letran boy and grew up in BF homes Paranaque.
-Ian Aquino
#148
makiki-extra lang
my first rc race car was an M01 and i loved that car i couldnt leave it stock. i slapped on a 10x3 and 7-cell 2000s - that thing ate up countergears i used to join when boyel sponsored motorshow races in folk arts parking lot, then in boom na boom parking. i remembered i hopped it up to the max - aluminum and carbon fiber here and there - and only because it was so much cheaper then (that was 1997 i think) aluminum arms and mounts were only P 300.00+ a pair, the carbon fiber chassis was
P 900.00 (got it on sale in boyels, megamall ) and wheels were also inexpensive, especially the rear tires on my fwd mini - they lasted forever! now, aluminum front knuckles cost about
P 1,000.00 oh well, those were the days ...
anyway, im feel really bad that i sold that car some years ago because i switched to touring. right now, im thinking of getting back into mini because i plan to run in much smaller tracks.
what do you guys suggest? what is the most recent tamiya mini chassis? is it still the M03 with the old rover mini cooper body? i understand that the tamiya chassis with the new mini cooper body is based on a longer wheelbase, right? i prefer a front wheel drive short wheelbase model.
thanks for any info happy racing
my first rc race car was an M01 and i loved that car i couldnt leave it stock. i slapped on a 10x3 and 7-cell 2000s - that thing ate up countergears i used to join when boyel sponsored motorshow races in folk arts parking lot, then in boom na boom parking. i remembered i hopped it up to the max - aluminum and carbon fiber here and there - and only because it was so much cheaper then (that was 1997 i think) aluminum arms and mounts were only P 300.00+ a pair, the carbon fiber chassis was
P 900.00 (got it on sale in boyels, megamall ) and wheels were also inexpensive, especially the rear tires on my fwd mini - they lasted forever! now, aluminum front knuckles cost about
P 1,000.00 oh well, those were the days ...
anyway, im feel really bad that i sold that car some years ago because i switched to touring. right now, im thinking of getting back into mini because i plan to run in much smaller tracks.
what do you guys suggest? what is the most recent tamiya mini chassis? is it still the M03 with the old rover mini cooper body? i understand that the tamiya chassis with the new mini cooper body is based on a longer wheelbase, right? i prefer a front wheel drive short wheelbase model.
thanks for any info happy racing
#149
Tech Elite
iTrader: (32)
Hey Difuser,
Just Bought 4 brand new Old school Johnson Motors off ebay for 20.00!Is that a good deal or what?!These are the Johnson motors with the metal endbell correct?I sure hope I bought the right ones.They were from older kits the guys told me.
Do you guys have a ritual you do for the Bushings as in breaking them in?I also just recieved my TRF flourine coated shocks for my mini.Does anyone know how many orings to use internally for these shocks?I have went Mini Crazy!Sometimes I wish I lived either near Burien toyota or Tamiyas track because I really like racing tamiya cars now.I absolutely love My Surikarn evo but I have to admit,right now the Mini class has planted my feet when it comes to racing.Its brought the fun back!Thanks again for the help guys.
Do you guys have a ritual you do for the Bushings as in breaking them in?I also just recieved my TRF flourine coated shocks for my mini.Does anyone know how many orings to use internally for these shocks?I have went Mini Crazy!Sometimes I wish I lived either near Burien toyota or Tamiyas track because I really like racing tamiya cars now.I absolutely love My Surikarn evo but I have to admit,right now the Mini class has planted my feet when it comes to racing.Its brought the fun back!Thanks again for the help guys.
#150
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Beautiful Downtown L.A. Where the sky is always on fire and the grass is always brown
Posts: 949
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Originally posted by eeyan
let MINI live on!!! =)
-Ian Aquino
let MINI live on!!! =)
-Ian Aquino