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Old 03-13-2014, 05:23 PM
  #1531  
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Originally Posted by grippgoat
How many cutting blades does your reamer have? I have a single blade dynamite that doesn't stay centered well, and I have a TRF one with two blades that seems to center nicely.

-Mike
It has two. I will do some experiemtns on leftover lexan. A few finely drawn cross hairs and I should be able to tell if it is going in centre....
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Old 03-13-2014, 05:23 PM
  #1532  
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Originally Posted by Fly'n Fish
Does anyone have the exact spacings for the body posts handy. If Alex Hagberg has given us the front overhang then just need to get the body post spacing to finish the job perfectly. I could measure them but it won't be as neat as having the exact spec, precise kind of work. Also I am wondering how accurate my body reamer is, I mean if you ream from a spot is it exactly centre of should I make a cross hair to make exactly sure. I know I can put a bit of pressure on a side to get it to run that way....

Thanks
Do you mean the spacings between the posts at the front (62.5mm) and gap between the rear posts (102mm)
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Old 03-13-2014, 07:54 PM
  #1533  
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Originally Posted by Skiddins
Do you mean the spacings between the posts at the front (62.5mm) and gap between the rear posts (102mm)
Ah yes those and the distance lengthways?
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:11 PM
  #1534  
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Originally Posted by Fly'n Fish
It has two. I will do some experiemtns on leftover lexan. A few finely drawn cross hairs and I should be able to tell if it is going in centre....
Ok definitely watch out with the body reamers boys. Mine is getting off course by around a 1mm or so on average. A permanent marker cross allows you to see which way it's drifting and then guide it back with a bit of pressure in the right direction.
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Skiddins
Out of interest, what car have you changed to?
I have 2 T4 2014's, I am going with an A700 for stock, but keeping the other one for mod and 13.5 for now.
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Old 03-14-2014, 01:49 AM
  #1536  
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Originally Posted by Fly'n Fish
Ok definitely watch out with the body reamers boys. Mine is getting off course by around a 1mm or so on average. A permanent marker cross allows you to see which way it's drifting and then guide it back with a bit of pressure in the right direction.

I have come up with a simple but easy way of marking the hole positions.

First I cut the posts down to length, then I drilled a 1mm hole in the dead centre in the top of the two rear mounts. Mark the body shell (I mark the rear as it is flater and easier) Put the body over the car and centre, hold the body in place with two map pins through the body into the 1mm holes in the top of the rear posts, this holds the body firm enough to mark the position of the front posts exacltly. I drill through the body with a sharp 3mm drill then open it out with a reamer.

Its fits spot on every time

Bb
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Old 03-14-2014, 02:23 AM
  #1537  
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Originally Posted by Fly'n Fish
Ah yes those and the distance lengthways?
Sorry, gap widthway's is all I have.
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Old 03-14-2014, 04:47 AM
  #1538  
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Originally Posted by Fly'n Fish
Ok definitely watch out with the body reamers boys. Mine is getting off course by around a 1mm or so on average. A permanent marker cross allows you to see which way it's drifting and then guide it back with a bit of pressure in the right direction.
i drill mine with a 3mm bit and then a 7mm bit,easier than using a reamer
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Old 03-14-2014, 04:48 AM
  #1539  
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Originally Posted by Skiddins
Sorry, gap widthway's is all I have.
i think he wants from rear post to front post,id do it but my posts aren't straight,not sure why he wants it though
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Old 03-14-2014, 11:59 AM
  #1540  
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Originally Posted by chasingthepack
i think he wants from rear post to front post,id do it but my posts aren't straight,not sure why he wants it though
That way the whole body can be marked out without mucking around with the car. I bent up a 'measuring' device out of wire and used that, worked very well. I am just thinking a bit of wood with long sharp screws poking through it at the right spacing would work too if they were different lengths. That would be the thousand and first way to mark out a body no!
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Old 03-14-2014, 12:01 PM
  #1541  
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Originally Posted by Fly'n Fish
That way the whole body can be marked out without mucking around with the car. I bent up a 'measuring' device out of wire and used that, worked very well. I am just thinking a bit of wood with long sharp screws poking through it at the right spacing would work too if they were different lengths. That would be the thousand and first way to mark out a body no!
Or get the spec-r magnet alignment tool and be done.
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Old 03-14-2014, 12:07 PM
  #1542  
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Or make templates. Measure, mark, etc on a clear body then you can use a small drill for a mark hole. I have 3 holes, 0=center, 3mm and 6mm forward for the speed 6.



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Old 03-14-2014, 12:19 PM
  #1543  
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Need help...

I'm prepping for the reedy, need to experiment with different gear ratios for 13.5.. Seems as thought the kimborough spur gears won't fit with out some modifying. Any other spur gears that fit for the t4?? I usually run 48p and 64 for 17.5, should I run 64p setups?

O' and I run the lowered layshafts so 84t 48p is the biggest I think I can go
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Old 03-14-2014, 12:32 PM
  #1544  
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Originally Posted by ronP617
Need help...

I'm prepping for the reedy, need to experiment with different gear ratios for 13.5.. Seems as thought the kimborough spur gears won't fit with out some modifying. Any other spur gears that fit for the t4?? I usually run 48p and 64 for 17.5, should I run 64p setups?

O' and I run the lowered layshafts so 84t 48p is the biggest I think I can go
Search the thread and you will find plently of other manufacturers that fit.
I use RW Xray offset spur gears I think panaracer (?) also fit
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Old 03-14-2014, 01:13 PM
  #1545  
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Lightspeed is amazing gears. U can het them thru EAmotorsports. Fast shippimg also.
serpent and prs also make spurs that fit but not sure if either of those r 48p
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