Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
yeah, it should just slide on. I would contact AE and get a replacement outdrive. I had no issues with the diff build.
Gentlemen:
AE Tech indicated lack of machining on the diff shaft. So a bit of file work and lots of soap and water should be ok.
Hope the supply of parts for the B5M improves.
Thanks for your advice.
AE Tech indicated lack of machining on the diff shaft. So a bit of file work and lots of soap and water should be ok.
Hope the supply of parts for the B5M improves.
Thanks for your advice.
Hello all,
I am new here and am currently building my first RC10. Im having a blast and can't wait to drive it but I ran into a problem last night when getting the rear turnbuckles installed, the left rear arm binds up when it move it upwards. It appears as though the CVA is running into the thrust T nut on the diff... But I am concerned about over tightening my diff as I seemed to have gotten it set correctly per the sticky on the top of the forum.
According to the manual I should be able to tighten it "until the spring is fully compressed" which should resolve my issue, but I don't want to damage the diff balls. Anyone else run into this issue? And suggestions? I considered sanding down the t nut as well.
I am new here and am currently building my first RC10. Im having a blast and can't wait to drive it but I ran into a problem last night when getting the rear turnbuckles installed, the left rear arm binds up when it move it upwards. It appears as though the CVA is running into the thrust T nut on the diff... But I am concerned about over tightening my diff as I seemed to have gotten it set correctly per the sticky on the top of the forum.
According to the manual I should be able to tighten it "until the spring is fully compressed" which should resolve my issue, but I don't want to damage the diff balls. Anyone else run into this issue? And suggestions? I considered sanding down the t nut as well.
Last night traction came up so high each time my ride went though the sweeper it was on 2 wheels. Car felted tippy..
So I went to 2.5/1 instead of 3/1..
All the tip disappeared, could hit the sweeper full speed..
Car improved on the lap times as well..
If anyone is experiencing similar issues give a little less rear toe a try .
So I went to 2.5/1 instead of 3/1..
All the tip disappeared, could hit the sweeper full speed..
Car improved on the lap times as well..
If anyone is experiencing similar issues give a little less rear toe a try .
happy day happy day my nova slippers are here in the mail. let see white pad on the in side and two red on the outside?
I ususally start out white-white-red like the manual. If you go up to white-red-red it gives more initial punch which I normally only use if there are big jumps.
GTI a few are trying, but most still use 1 degree.
0 anti squat may have only made my ride more tippy .
Sides you seen the size of the big jump we are having to clear ?
Think it's 26ft ...
0 anti squat may have only made my ride more tippy .
Sides you seen the size of the big jump we are having to clear ?
Think it's 26ft ...
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
I would chuck it up in a drill and lightly sand it until the bearing slips on.
Tech Apprentice
Are there any pictures of the new layout and this monster jump? Maybe Anthony has a video up somewhere?
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
the male diff half is the side with a hard shaft, hence male...The female side has a hole...need I say more? Often people put the thrust in the wrong outdrive and this causes issues like you describe. We all know the dangers of thrusting on the wrong hole
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (21)