137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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07-02-2015, 05:08 PM
Did anyone else have tightness when putting the steering blocks into the caster blocks?
I had a tough time getting everything together it seemed like the steering block did not freely move in the caster block. Even when I backed out the screws.
I had to sand down the caster block a bit to get free movement.
Also I used the pinch the ball cup with pliers trick, it worked great. How long do they stay pinched and move freely?
This is the first kit I've built since my B2 in the 90's. This buggy is so much better than the old stuff. You young guns have no idea how good you have it today
Thanks to Jason RCbuddha for starting this page and adding to it. I know it sounds nuts but I have read every single post in the 957 pages so far. So much good info.
I had a tough time getting everything together it seemed like the steering block did not freely move in the caster block. Even when I backed out the screws.
I had to sand down the caster block a bit to get free movement.
Also I used the pinch the ball cup with pliers trick, it worked great. How long do they stay pinched and move freely?
This is the first kit I've built since my B2 in the 90's. This buggy is so much better than the old stuff. You young guns have no idea how good you have it today
Thanks to Jason RCbuddha for starting this page and adding to it. I know it sounds nuts but I have read every single post in the 957 pages so far. So much good info.
07-02-2015, 06:09 PM
Tech Adept
Hey guys
I'm looking into getting a b5m and I'm wondering what servos as well as motor/esc fit in the buggy. The only option I really see that people are using is the Tekin RS gen 2 and not much else. The buggy seems to be really cramped for space. I also don't see too much info on the servos people seem to be running. Any recommendations?
I'm looking into getting a b5m and I'm wondering what servos as well as motor/esc fit in the buggy. The only option I really see that people are using is the Tekin RS gen 2 and not much else. The buggy seems to be really cramped for space. I also don't see too much info on the servos people seem to be running. Any recommendations?
07-02-2015, 06:29 PM
Did anyone else have tightness when putting the steering blocks into the caster blocks?
I had a tough time getting everything together it seemed like the steering block did not freely move in the caster block. Even when I backed out the screws.
I had to sand down the caster block a bit to get free movement.
Also I used the pinch the ball cup with pliers trick, it worked great. How long do they stay pinched and move freely?
This is the first kit I've built since my B2 in the 90's. This buggy is so much better than the old stuff. You young guns have no idea how good you have it today
Thanks to Jason RCbuddha for starting this page and adding to it. I know it sounds nuts but I have read every single post in the 957 pages so far. So much good info.
I had a tough time getting everything together it seemed like the steering block did not freely move in the caster block. Even when I backed out the screws.
I had to sand down the caster block a bit to get free movement.
Also I used the pinch the ball cup with pliers trick, it worked great. How long do they stay pinched and move freely?
This is the first kit I've built since my B2 in the 90's. This buggy is so much better than the old stuff. You young guns have no idea how good you have it today
Thanks to Jason RCbuddha for starting this page and adding to it. I know it sounds nuts but I have read every single post in the 957 pages so far. So much good info.
07-02-2015, 06:35 PM
Well, honestly I really hate tuning with flex. I'd rather have a super rigid car and find another solution if more grip is needed--such as more droop or roll or softer springs, but I digress. Good info on the 4 gear, that's what I was looking for.
So the light chassis is milled out, not thinner? I'm not going to NOT use it because it flexes more, you just won't see me cutting parts and removing screws to find flex--I'll just run it because it comes with the car if it doesn't wear out faster on an abrasive surface.
So the light chassis is milled out, not thinner? I'm not going to NOT use it because it flexes more, you just won't see me cutting parts and removing screws to find flex--I'll just run it because it comes with the car if it doesn't wear out faster on an abrasive surface.
If you like a really aggressive feeling car, more ridged is for you.
07-02-2015, 06:44 PM
Hey guys
I'm looking into getting a b5m and I'm wondering what servos as well as motor/esc fit in the buggy. The only option I really see that people are using is the Tekin RS gen 2 and not much else. The buggy seems to be really cramped for space. I also don't see too much info on the servos people seem to be running. Any recommendations?
I'm looking into getting a b5m and I'm wondering what servos as well as motor/esc fit in the buggy. The only option I really see that people are using is the Tekin RS gen 2 and not much else. The buggy seems to be really cramped for space. I also don't see too much info on the servos people seem to be running. Any recommendations?
My car is set up inline with a LRP SXX, shorty and a low profile Sanwa servo.
07-02-2015, 07:28 PM
Well, honestly I really hate tuning with flex. I'd rather have a super rigid car and find another solution if more grip is needed--such as more droop or roll or softer springs, but I digress. Good info on the 4 gear, that's what I was looking for.
So the light chassis is milled out, not thinner? I'm not going to NOT use it because it flexes more, you just won't see me cutting parts and removing screws to find flex--I'll just run it because it comes with the car if it doesn't wear out faster on an abrasive surface.
So the light chassis is milled out, not thinner? I'm not going to NOT use it because it flexes more, you just won't see me cutting parts and removing screws to find flex--I'll just run it because it comes with the car if it doesn't wear out faster on an abrasive surface.
07-02-2015, 07:38 PM
If you like a flexy car buy an SLRC chassis. Its a tad thinner and made of a different aluminum. Its a huge difference. I run one on my T5M too. Its the best mod I've done to date. I had a lot of trouble getting my car to feel right with a 3 gear tranny and the SLRC made up the difference. When winter comes around and I go back to 4 gear the SLRC chassis is really going shine....that's not why I posted actually.
Anywho, I wanted to post up about the MIP tranny. The fact that its a giant heat sync was totally a surprise. It was sort of a "oh duh" moment for me. For club racing we are pretty loose on the rules so I run a Hobbywing Bandit 17.5 (its a thick wire cheater motor that's as fast as a typical 13.5). I do that so I can run my buggy in both stock and expert (our version of mod). We run outdoors in the desert. Last Sunday the track surface was 125 degrees. Everybody was gearing down and taking out timing but me. My car was coming off the track @151 degrees after running back to back races while everybody else was 170-180+ after 5 minutes. We actually shortened the mains to 6 minutes because of the heat. I didn't really realize that it was the tranny keeping the car cool till one of my friends, who's an aerospace engineer, looked at my car and said "what a great idea! That transmission must soak up a lot of heat!" I'm the only guy who has them (I have 2). So, the moral of my story is that if your car runs hot the MIP tranny has a lot of benefits including reducing your temps by 20-30 degrees. Its my understanding that they are 8 grams heavier than stock. If the money isn't too big of deal it seems to me that the extra weight is probably similar to that of a waterfall fan, there's no drag on your battery, and your putting a little extra weight right on the rear wheels. Its my second favorite mod, right behind the SLRC tranny. Also, My car weighs 1501 grams dirty.
Anywho, I wanted to post up about the MIP tranny. The fact that its a giant heat sync was totally a surprise. It was sort of a "oh duh" moment for me. For club racing we are pretty loose on the rules so I run a Hobbywing Bandit 17.5 (its a thick wire cheater motor that's as fast as a typical 13.5). I do that so I can run my buggy in both stock and expert (our version of mod). We run outdoors in the desert. Last Sunday the track surface was 125 degrees. Everybody was gearing down and taking out timing but me. My car was coming off the track @151 degrees after running back to back races while everybody else was 170-180+ after 5 minutes. We actually shortened the mains to 6 minutes because of the heat. I didn't really realize that it was the tranny keeping the car cool till one of my friends, who's an aerospace engineer, looked at my car and said "what a great idea! That transmission must soak up a lot of heat!" I'm the only guy who has them (I have 2). So, the moral of my story is that if your car runs hot the MIP tranny has a lot of benefits including reducing your temps by 20-30 degrees. Its my understanding that they are 8 grams heavier than stock. If the money isn't too big of deal it seems to me that the extra weight is probably similar to that of a waterfall fan, there's no drag on your battery, and your putting a little extra weight right on the rear wheels. Its my second favorite mod, right behind the SLRC tranny. Also, My car weighs 1501 grams dirty.
07-02-2015, 07:48 PM
http://www.redrc.net/2015/07/jconcep...b-motor-plate/
http://www.redrc.net/2015/07/jconcep...allstud-mount/
http://www.redrc.net/2015/07/mckune-...attery-braces/
JConcepts has rolled out a replacement motor plate for the popular 3-gear transmission available for the B5M, T5M and SC5M vehicles. The special design of the plate with a honeycomb milling affect over the standard “heatsink” ribs makes for improved rigidity in multiple directions. The honeycomb features add a 3D look especially as they remain natural aluminium while the rest is available black or blue in colour while slight chamfering on the 3mm thickness material allows the rather beefy plate to look quite skinny.
http://www.redrc.net/2015/07/jconcep...allstud-mount/
Coming from JConcepts and made for Team Associated B5M-based vehicles is an aluminium 4-hole rear ballstud mount. Offering two new, additional holes for camber gain adjustment as well as two standard holes the mount allows an in-between setting as well as an evenly spaced 4th hole all the way inside. In addition, the mount also features a setting which allows the racer to change the orientation of the mount to either -2mm or +2mm of inner ball-stud height. The durability in this mounting area has been put to the test with difficult race circuits and especially with the introduction of the T5M and the pending release of the SC5M. The JConcepts part therefore also has added thickness around the screw mounting holes, a thickened main connection U-brace and for twisting and bending resistance a thick rib added from the main body to the screw location boss. The part fits all M-series Team Associated off-road vehicles and it comes black or blue anodised.
http://www.redrc.net/2015/07/mckune-...attery-braces/
Mckune Design have released their new line of carbon fibre battery braces for the Kyosho RB6 and Associated B5M 2WD buggies. The RB6 cross brace allows racers to modify the chassis and mount a shorty battery sideways without compromising the stiffness of the chassis while the inline B5M battery brace provides secure mounting of an inline battery in either forward or rear position.
07-02-2015, 08:44 PM
What setup changes might I have to make with the LCG transmission?
07-02-2015, 09:06 PM
Looking for feedback:
VRP Shock pistons or RCShox pistons?
VRP Shock pistons or RCShox pistons?
07-02-2015, 09:18 PM
If you like a flexy car buy an SLRC chassis. Its a tad thinner and made of a different aluminum. Its a huge difference. I run one on my T5M too. Its the best mod I've done to date. I had a lot of trouble getting my car to feel right with a 3 gear tranny and the SLRC made up the difference. When winter comes around and I go back to 4 gear the SLRC chassis is really going shine....that's not why I posted actually.
Anywho, I wanted to post up about the MIP tranny. The fact that its a giant heat sync was totally a surprise. It was sort of a "oh duh" moment for me. For club racing we are pretty loose on the rules so I run a Hobbywing Bandit 17.5 (its a thick wire cheater motor that's as fast as a typical 13.5). I do that so I can run my buggy in both stock and expert (our version of mod). We run outdoors in the desert. Last Sunday the track surface was 125 degrees. Everybody was gearing down and taking out timing but me. My car was coming off the track @151 degrees after running back to back races while everybody else was 170-180+ after 5 minutes. We actually shortened the mains to 6 minutes because of the heat. I didn't really realize that it was the tranny keeping the car cool till one of my friends, who's an aerospace engineer, looked at my car and said "what a great idea! That transmission must soak up a lot of heat!" I'm the only guy who has them (I have 2). So, the moral of my story is that if your car runs hot the MIP tranny has a lot of benefits including reducing your temps by 20-30 degrees. Its my understanding that they are 8 grams heavier than stock. If the money isn't too big of deal it seems to me that the extra weight is probably similar to that of a waterfall fan, there's no drag on your battery, and your putting a little extra weight right on the rear wheels. Its my second favorite mod, right behind the SLRC tranny. Also, My car weighs 1501 grams dirty.
Anywho, I wanted to post up about the MIP tranny. The fact that its a giant heat sync was totally a surprise. It was sort of a "oh duh" moment for me. For club racing we are pretty loose on the rules so I run a Hobbywing Bandit 17.5 (its a thick wire cheater motor that's as fast as a typical 13.5). I do that so I can run my buggy in both stock and expert (our version of mod). We run outdoors in the desert. Last Sunday the track surface was 125 degrees. Everybody was gearing down and taking out timing but me. My car was coming off the track @151 degrees after running back to back races while everybody else was 170-180+ after 5 minutes. We actually shortened the mains to 6 minutes because of the heat. I didn't really realize that it was the tranny keeping the car cool till one of my friends, who's an aerospace engineer, looked at my car and said "what a great idea! That transmission must soak up a lot of heat!" I'm the only guy who has them (I have 2). So, the moral of my story is that if your car runs hot the MIP tranny has a lot of benefits including reducing your temps by 20-30 degrees. Its my understanding that they are 8 grams heavier than stock. If the money isn't too big of deal it seems to me that the extra weight is probably similar to that of a waterfall fan, there's no drag on your battery, and your putting a little extra weight right on the rear wheels. Its my second favorite mod, right behind the SLRC tranny. Also, My car weighs 1501 grams dirty.
07-02-2015, 09:26 PM
It gives me a huge advantage in the heat. I'm willing to over look the bearings.
07-02-2015, 09:33 PM
on a side not, do you have to use their motor place and gear cover?
07-02-2015, 10:03 PM
where do you go to buy slrc chassis? and do they also make one for the t5m?
07-02-2015, 10:05 PM