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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

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Old 01-05-2010, 05:02 AM
  #7711  
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I use sponsor decal sheets. Cut them just right and you can read the sponsors name. When people see colours on your diff they say "hey whats that speed secret"
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Old 01-05-2010, 10:10 AM
  #7712  
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Originally Posted by PDR
Fair 'nuff. Only ordered the once from them, and it was fine. A possible alternative is a Tamiya part: 53970 Ball Differential Protective Seal. Doesn't explicitly list the 416, but looks pretty close and may be easier to source.

Phil.
Actually I've been using those on the 416 with no problems, only reason I was looking for the Jaad seals is they are made from a thicker material, a lot easier to install.
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Old 01-05-2010, 03:25 PM
  #7713  
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Can anyone scan the front page of the manual from their 416X?
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Old 01-05-2010, 04:03 PM
  #7714  
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster
Actually I've been using those on the 416 with no problems, only reason I was looking for the Jaad seals is they are made from a thicker material, a lot easier to install.
hi randy, i thought the diff seal can use normal black stickers?? after u stick it, blow it with hairdryer.With this way, it'll not peel off when u race ....
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Old 01-05-2010, 10:40 PM
  #7715  
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I use LRP stickers which comes with ESC for car bodyshell. It does not even peel.
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Old 01-06-2010, 03:00 AM
  #7716  
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Hi everyone,

Finally got my TRF416 up and running. Been sitting in my room half built for about 6 months now.

Anyway, I was just wondering if there it any way to mount a regular stick pack on there? Or is the only option LIPO or the ones where the cells are in six parallel cells?

Thanks!
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Old 01-06-2010, 05:50 AM
  #7717  
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I notice a lot of guys running DD up front for carpet to keep car from traction rolling. Why don't you just run CC and glue the sidewalls of the tires like Wilck and Rheinard do? Take a look at Wilck's ETS pictures from the Budapest race and you'll see he's running CC and gluing his tires about half to 2/3rds of the way up from the bead.
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Old 01-06-2010, 06:11 AM
  #7718  
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Originally Posted by Apex
I notice a lot of guys running DD up front for carpet to keep car from traction rolling. Why don't you just run CC and glue the sidewalls of the tires like Wilck and Rheinard do? Take a look at Wilck's ETS pictures from the Budapest race and you'll see he's running CC and gluing his tires about half to 2/3rds of the way up from the bead.
Switching to D width in the front helps stabilize the car and tone down the steering. Gluing the side of the tire simply takes away sidewall traction from the tire.
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Old 01-06-2010, 07:01 AM
  #7719  
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Originally Posted by M-Technic
Switching to D width in the front helps stabilize the car and tone down the steering. Gluing the side of the tire simply takes away sidewall traction from the tire.
So I guess the team driver's want to keep the needed steering for mod by using CC up front and glue the sidewalls to keep from traction rolling in high grip conditions. Seem like this should be the ticket for the spec classes as well. I guess I'll have to try for myself.
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Old 01-06-2010, 07:26 AM
  #7720  
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Originally Posted by Raman
Thanks for the link and 64p... suggestion

Mine is a WE.. I also have a bunch of 0.4 spurs in 112, 120, & 128 from my old TA04 TRF.. Going to see if they'll fit, have a feeling only 112 will
Don't be fooled, 64 pitch may be very close to .4 metric but it doesn't really work. Setting mesh is going to be very fiddly and you will get an annoying high pitched noise from the transmission. While this is not a problem in itself, it is the symptom of a problem, and that is power loss and sooner or later (depending on what motor you're running) but in any case prematurely you will wear the pinion/spur. Get the proper pitch for whatever you're using, there's no gain in cutting corners here.
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Old 01-06-2010, 10:53 AM
  #7721  
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My car runs and sounds fine and I am using 64p pinion. I just can't seem to imagine any sort of power loss or even how much power would you think you can lose with a .01 difference. To each his own I guess. I works for 17.5
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Old 01-06-2010, 12:07 PM
  #7722  
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster
Actually I've been using those on the 416 with no problems, only reason I was looking for the Jaad seals is they are made from a thicker material, a lot easier to install.
Randy YGPM √
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Old 01-07-2010, 04:45 AM
  #7723  
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Another thing about diff... Are there any 3rd party which produces the cover up ver of diff. At least this saves time than replacing diff seal.
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Old 01-07-2010, 04:52 AM
  #7724  
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Another thing about diff balls..



http://www.tpracing.com.my/main.htm click on general parts/bearings

Which ceramic balls are consider reliable. I brought the CDB-3 but to my dismay the reliablle not as good compare with original tamiya steel balls. Eventually after few runs I got cracking sound on my diff. Although after service prob still persist. After replacing with the ori Tamiya steel balls all fine.
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Old 01-07-2010, 05:09 AM
  #7725  
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hey guys,

can I swap the original gearing for the pitch 48?

the case is I have a lot of 48p stuff that i used on my TC5 and i donīt really want to change for the tamiya one.
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