JLock

iTrader: (4)

If it is doing that, it is a tad bit too lean on the low end. Remember to watch your idle when you richen up the low end. As you richen it, the idle rpms may drop a bit and you may have to idle it up to compensate (depending on how much you have to richen your low end).

benbishop98

iTrader: (3)

Thanks. When it's idling right after a sprint it idled down slightly after a couple seconds. Is that also a result of the lsn being lean?

JLock

iTrader: (4)

Yes, but not by much. An engine that is tuned precise should go to standstill idle as soon as you let off the throttle (going back to neutral position). Try richening it up another hour and see if the idle drops or it is still slightly high before dropping down to standstill idle. If the former from the last sentence, you are where you need to be, if the latter keep richening it slightly until it hits the idle "sweet spot".

benbishop98

iTrader: (3)

thanks, got it just right. not new to nitro but far from a expert. the gt2 is my third nitro, traxxas 4-tec and a mgt 8.0 being the others, all with stock engines. the stock engine on this gt2 is by far the best i've messed with. even set slightly rich, why kill it?, it gets great rpms smoothly. how much better is mid range .21? is there a big difference? i'm torn between a better engine or a electric plane.

JLock

iTrader: (4)

Glad that the advice I gave helped. Not quite understanding what you mean by a mid-range .21. Personally, I would go with the electric plane or quad-copter over getting another engine, especially if you never plan on racing the car at any events.

benbishop98

iTrader: (3)

http:// http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alum...item1c40db3a44
what do you guys think? worth a shot? they ship from brooklyn which I feel a little better about then hong kong though that's most likely where they originally came from.

Jspeed

Ben,

They look shiney, but its doubtful they'll help improve your car's performance, handling or top speed at all. if your stock plastic shocks aren't leaking there's not need to worry about them; if they are just replace the o-ring gaskets and be done with it.

About the only "mod" the factory plastic shocks could use are replacing the brass pistons with the plastic OEM buggy ones; and even that's debatable since Jlock has been whipping people's butts with those stock brass pistons for years. Lol

Want to really increase the high speed performance & handling of your Kyosho?

Get yourself a Warrior GT body and give it a try.

Good luck, hope it helps.

BuddyBaja

Yeah I saw ZERO gain from changing out to the option shocks. Put that money towards a better servo or pipe.

JLock

iTrader: (4)

As far as the Kyosho GT cars, you don't have to go "hog wild" on aftermarket options to keep the car competitive. The main thing is upgrading the 2-speed transmission to the shoe-style if the car has the old finger-style. You want to upgrade the brakes to the thick car pad-looking shoes from the flimsy paperish-type shoes for better stopping. When you do this, get the Losi brake springs to put between the pads (on the pade holding bolts) to keep the shoe from wearing them out when the brakes aren't engaged. The stock plastic shocks work fine but to fine-tune, you want to do like Jspeed said and upgrade to the shock pistons that are used in their offroad buggies and truggies. I would suggest upgrading the center front/rear drive shafts to the CVD ones. You can go CVDs on all four corners (which is costly) but you can get by with the stock dogbones. I still use the plastic chassis braces but have seen many Kyosho GT racers upgrade to the King's Head ones to better stiffen the chassis. Definitely get the front/rear sway bars and you are pretty much set.

benbishop98

iTrader: (3)

now that i have thought about it the shocks would be a waste. it made sense with my MGT because you can kinda see them. i just recently got my gt2. bought it new so it has the good 2 speed. what kings head chassis brace fits it? they dont have it listed on their site. i got the blue aluminum kyosho one for the rear. got a gunmetal one for the front that doesnt fit. IGT Hobbies arent the best at determining part compatibility.

JLock

iTrader: (4)

Here is the front chassis brace from Kyosho that I have on a ST-RR electric chassis:

http://www.infernosonly.com/Kyosho_T...kyoifw323f.htm

Here is the King Headz version:

http://www.kingheads.com/product_inf...roducts_id=184
http://www.kingheads.com/product_inf...roducts_id=185

It was listed under the ST-RR Truggy hop-ups section. Ask and ye shall find for you.

JLock

iTrader: (4)

Oh, I forgot to add from my earlier post, you might want to upgrade from the stock hinge pin set. Racer's Edge use to make a good set but you want to find a set that doesn't use e-clips.

BuddyBaja

Blew another 1st gear spur.

It is the newest style transmission and everything in it is working great. I have a hard time getting a perfect mesh. I never have this much trouble lining up my e-buggies. Any advice? I can get second gear nice and perfect and have 1st gear loose. I get 1st gear loose and then second gear is too tight. Lol.

Jspeed

Exactly which clutch bell, gears and spurs are you using?

BuddyBaja

Using the evolva clutch bell with 17 21 tooth combo. Running stock 46 43 spur combo. Shoe style tranny.