Do-Over

I really wish I would have read this thread before I bought my Truggy. I got an RC8T RS RTR in about a week ago... I REALLY!!! wish I would have bought the CE....

A few things I've learned.... GO BACK AND REBUILD THE TRUCK!!!

Saying this just in case you do end up getting an RTR....

I had several screws missing, New fuel tank leaked on first fire up, and they don't locktite anything when they build it at the factory. I went thru a bunch of clutch bearings before I realized the motor mount screws were gone.....

Other than that easy to work on and good costumer support from AE. I was new to Nitro and just back into RC from an 8 year break so I didn't know any of this. Thats why I'm telling you.(wish some1 had told me)

As far as performance:
I got the RTR that doesn't have all the great CE stuff on it but I still hang right in with Mugen's and Losi's. Unless your a pro racer I don't think you'll notice it.(most of my crew is a year or less into it) And a lot of people are saying the RTR RC8T is bad, its not, it's a good starter truck and its plenty fast with great feel IMO. But, you REALLY need to go thru it when you get it, and if you do want to upgrade it you'll spend 3 times the $(just FYI). After a few upgrades so far I have as much in the RTR as I would have had in the kit and all the supplies so... Unless you are not mechanically inclined, buy the kit.

To recap.

1) Buy a kit!!!
2) Locktite is your friend!

I<3RC

haha thanks man ill remember that

blacksunshine

iTrader: (15)

I don't think it matters what version of the rc8 u get there all weak truggys.The other day we were at the track and my friend was trying to get the handling dialed in on all 10 of his truggy's 4 of which were rc8t ce and everyone of the rc8's broke.Junk!Ive been beating there buts all season long with my x2 crt and have had no breakage at all.losi/rc8t/mugen/and even xray's all are falling victim to the race god's at my local track.They all say the x2 is to heavy.I say house hockey it might be a little heavier but to me that just makes it out handle everything it beats every weekend.I did buy a 09 spec xray off this site and it will be here next week.I'll let you guys know how long it lasts.

mr240

iTrader: (61)

Is it normal for the x2 to have so much slop in the front suspension. I am talking about the steering knuckles and upper/lower arms.

nothin special

iTrader: (3)

The Jammins have a lot of play from new. You can shim the control arm with small thin washers, just make sure their not binding . I have a new D8T that Imracing for the first time tommorrow and it had about the same amount of play new as the Jammin .

jmaxey51

iTrader: (7)

yeah they have a little slop but add a washer and it will go away.

skydark_34

duh...don't think X2crt is so bad..i like the X2crt..currently getting it to go more aggressive than before..this car sure can drive..this is my 2nd car..long live my dark X2CRT..

I<3RC

ha poor truck man

Glenwyatt

iTrader: (4)

I just bought a used X2 (barely used) and would like to know what I need to do to run zero offset wheels. I would guess I need spacers, but where should I get them and which ones are best and do you run them all around or just on the front?

Also, what is a good inexpensive streering servo for a truggy. I guess good and inexpensive don't go together..LOL

Thanks guy...I'm going to need your help a lot...I hope you don't mind

Glen

Do-Over

I'm just guessing here but you might need to get new hubs to run 0 offset. As far as St. Servos everybody loves Hitec 79xx series but they can be steep but worth it with the warranty. No sense in wasting money on a servo that don't last long. Some people swear by the Ace's (1015 and 1313) I've seen mixed results and heard mixed reviews. A-main just started carrying the Savox brand, these I hear mixed reviews on too but haven't seen in person. Get one with at least 250 oz. of torque for truggy IMO, and a transit speed under .2 is nice as well. Also, metal gears. Oh, and Hobbico and Tower sell a relabeled Hitec 5955 with metal gears and good torque and speed the hobbico is the CS-170, the tower is TS-170 i think. They are strong and fast and a little cheaper but don't have the warranty. I run the hobbico one personally in my truggy and it's worked fine for me. Best bet is to go to search on here and look for a thread called "Good Servo's?" It was started by me when I was doing the research for myself, a lot of good info in that thread. Hope that helps I don't run the Jammin but feel free to PM me with any newbie questions as I have learned my lesson's so far and will help you learn a little easier if you need me.

GravityJunkie

iTrader: (9)

I purchased OFNA hub extenders to run zero offset. You have to file down the backside to make'em work though. No biggie, but that's what I used.

Glenwyatt

iTrader: (4)

What size??

GravityJunkie

iTrader: (9)

I have a set of 12mm that I haven't run -- 12mm gets you close to the stock width.

I've run without extenders and now I'm currently running with the 6mm extenders. However, I shaved a mm or two off to limit rubbing, so it's a little less. With no extenders, I had problems with traction rolls. And it was a little too twitchy for my taste. The 6mm seemed about right for me, faster turn than stock (but not too bad) and the traction rolls were reduced.

Like I said, I had to file the extenders down to make'em fit. I also placed a .2mm washer behind the extenders to help keep down rubbing. It was well worth it, I'm really digging the 6mm extenders.

schumacheracing

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=mr240;7558760]Finally got everything put together on my X2. Just need to break in the engine now. Here it is with AE8T Bulldog body on it.


can some one find or post how to get the bulldog body to work I searched but this thread was as close as I could come, so the AE8t bulldog works ?

chaserogers14

iTrader: (2)

move rear body post 16.5mm-17.5 mm lower, posibbly put two body posts on at this height for strength but not needed. The mugen mbx6t bodies also fit this truck