Who runs Jammin buggies
#34
I just won the 2 diff's and the 2 pinion gears for 40.00 on ebay so now I just need the 17t clutch bell and 44t ring gear and my x1-x2 hybrid will be complete. Already have the big bore shocks from and X2 as well just installed today. Those things were pretty close to the upper arm in the front it actually looks like it touched, but when you press the car down it clears barely without touching. I randomly purchased a jammin cnc center diff mount on ebay for an X1 and I just realized after installing it that it is the same as the one that comes on the X2 which no longer uses the center posts. Thanks for all the help Jmaxey51.
#35
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
I just won the 2 diff's and the 2 pinion gears for 40.00 on ebay so now I just need the 17t clutch bell and 44t ring gear and my x1-x2 hybrid will be complete. Already have the big bore shocks from and X2 as well just installed today. Those things were pretty close to the upper arm in the front it actually looks like it touched, but when you press the car down it clears barely without touching. I randomly purchased a jammin cnc center diff mount on ebay for an X1 and I just realized after installing it that it is the same as the one that comes on the X2 which no longer uses the center posts. Thanks for all the help Jmaxey51.
#36
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Just FYI, I ran The X2 I like the carbon fiber towers, and Yes I cracked one, I was the same tumble that would have bent an aluiminum tower, and the handling was the same, a lil off but still racey, I was at the Nitro Challenge, An the Jammin guys hooked me up with a new tower, (CF) and newer cracked or damaged another, Aluminium is fine and can be bent back, but they break to, Overall the X 2 Handled great, I had some heartburn with the drive shaft wear, the X2 diff cups are awesome, but the dogbone pins wear really fast, you can change them if you have the right tool, and its cheap (Pins $2.00-the tool- over $100.00) But if you keep up, and just change the pins, its worth every penny, the platform is a good one, and from the X-1 to the two, its a big improvement, you just need to be ready to wheel it! It is a big change from the X1, I actually ran 10k in all the diffs and started to work backwards to find my set up, the 5-5-2 was to loopy for me, I have changed brands, but I still respect the Jammin, I ran it for a while, the X2 is more nimble and less forgiving than th X1, but if you can wheel it, it is definatly a contender.
best of luck.-- Monkey
best of luck.-- Monkey
#38
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
both work great i have ran both setups but you will just have to try both to see which one you like. that is driver preference. i liked 5-5-2 a little better but not a whole lot better but im trying a new setup at the next race 7-5-2. its all driver preference, but you have good starting point.
#39
Tech Elite
iTrader: (92)
I'll test it out how it is, and then work from there depending on how it drives. I'm very excited to see how it runs, I got it used in a trade as a X1CR FTE, and I've slowly ebayed it up to a X1.5CR FTE Hybrid. Here's what it basically has:
X1 CR FTE Chassis, fuel tank, cf radio tray, front suspension, and cnc front chassis brace
X1 CR Sport plastic rear chassis brace
X2 CR center diff, diff mount, fiber disk brakes, and diff mount cf top plate
X2 CR Throttle setup, cf shock towers (may get front cnc aluminum x2 one, or switch back to aluminum x1 towers), steering servo mount, 44T spur, 17T cb, radio box
Dragon racing rear hubs, rear driveshafts, and rear toe blocks
Losi 8ight-B front and rear shocks
Hotbodies D8 front and rear spiral cut gears
Jammin Aluminum Steering top plate, Steel flywheel, and Red Clutch shoes with 1 1.1 spring and 2 1.0 springs
Jp3 pipe, DX3.0, and Picco Evo-2 P7-R engine, Proline Crowd Pleazer Body, hitec servos
X1 CR FTE Chassis, fuel tank, cf radio tray, front suspension, and cnc front chassis brace
X1 CR Sport plastic rear chassis brace
X2 CR center diff, diff mount, fiber disk brakes, and diff mount cf top plate
X2 CR Throttle setup, cf shock towers (may get front cnc aluminum x2 one, or switch back to aluminum x1 towers), steering servo mount, 44T spur, 17T cb, radio box
Dragon racing rear hubs, rear driveshafts, and rear toe blocks
Losi 8ight-B front and rear shocks
Hotbodies D8 front and rear spiral cut gears
Jammin Aluminum Steering top plate, Steel flywheel, and Red Clutch shoes with 1 1.1 spring and 2 1.0 springs
Jp3 pipe, DX3.0, and Picco Evo-2 P7-R engine, Proline Crowd Pleazer Body, hitec servos
#40
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
I'll test it out how it is, and then work from there depending on how it drives. I'm very excited to see how it runs, I got it used in a trade as a X1CR FTE, and I've slowly ebayed it up to a X1.5CR FTE Hybrid. Here's what it basically has:
X1 CR FTE Chassis, fuel tank, cf radio tray, front suspension, and cnc front chassis brace
X1 CR Sport plastic rear chassis brace
X2 CR center diff, diff mount, fiber disk brakes, and diff mount cf top plate
X2 CR Throttle setup, cf shock towers (may get front cnc aluminum x2 one, or switch back to aluminum x1 towers), steering servo mount, 44T spur, 17T cb, radio box
Dragon racing rear hubs, rear driveshafts, and rear toe blocks
Losi 8ight-B front and rear shocks
Hotbodies D8 front and rear spiral cut gears
Jammin Aluminum Steering top plate, Steel flywheel, and Red Clutch shoes with 1 1.1 spring and 2 1.0 springs
Jp3 pipe, DX3.0, and Picco Evo-2 P7-R engine, Proline Crowd Pleazer Body, hitec servos
X1 CR FTE Chassis, fuel tank, cf radio tray, front suspension, and cnc front chassis brace
X1 CR Sport plastic rear chassis brace
X2 CR center diff, diff mount, fiber disk brakes, and diff mount cf top plate
X2 CR Throttle setup, cf shock towers (may get front cnc aluminum x2 one, or switch back to aluminum x1 towers), steering servo mount, 44T spur, 17T cb, radio box
Dragon racing rear hubs, rear driveshafts, and rear toe blocks
Losi 8ight-B front and rear shocks
Hotbodies D8 front and rear spiral cut gears
Jammin Aluminum Steering top plate, Steel flywheel, and Red Clutch shoes with 1 1.1 spring and 2 1.0 springs
Jp3 pipe, DX3.0, and Picco Evo-2 P7-R engine, Proline Crowd Pleazer Body, hitec servos
#42
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
the plastic one flexes more and i have seen people bend chassis with the plastic one tho. but you can try them both and see. also on the insta-cure you could try it and see and if it doesnt work you can get a new one off ebay for less than 10 bucks. but that should work fine.
#44
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
the rear aluminum chassis brace makes a big difference IMO but its not a huge deal. and on the cf front tower take some super glue or C-A glue and run it around the edge the tower, it makes it alot stronger. mine started to fray apart the first time i drove it but i put that on it and no more damage has accured. also on the shocks are you getting full down travel? like are the a-arms touching the chassis when you hold it in the air? because i thought losi shocks are shorter than jammin shocks but i may be wrong. they should work fine either way but if they are shorter make sure to make your droop screws are touching the chassis or it will will ruin the shocks. but you have one awesome setup i hope you enjoy it.