KrAcOn

iTrader: (6)

I found this post.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...d-chassis.html

FLYINGBRIAN

Has eneny body tried the lrp super shorty battery in there b5 rear.thanks

tksnobords

iTrader: (36)

a quick google search came up with these batteries under 3000mah. seems like a pretty low mah. but other than that, it looks like a good battery.

i really like trak power batteries.

i WON'T ever do business with trinity again...but my trinity battery does perform well.

gooba

iTrader: (5)

Before practice

After practice.

Track was pretty wet but was really hooking up I'm fighting a little push still but car is pretty dialed otherwise

Feyd Rautha

iTrader: (2)

Hey folks, I got back into the hobby after a 15 year layoff in 2014 and bought a RC8.2e. I'm thinking about switching to the B5. I hope someone could answer some questions for me.

1) It seems like I go through a lot of tires in my 1/8. Would the B5 be cheaper to maintain in the tire department?

2) It seems like my differentials are always leaking and such. I imagine the B5 is easier to tune and maintain than a 1/8 AWD?

Thanks.

frankf

iTrader: (4)

Q1. Yes 1/10 buggys have less power than an 1/8 buggy and therefore easier on tires especially if you race in the stock class, also the fronts last a long time and so usually it's just the rears that you'll replace more often
Q2. The B5 has a ball diff so has no fluid to leak, and yes it has much less maintenance than a 4wd buggy be it 1/10 or 1/8.

WagwanBumba

iTrader: (1)

1 - from personal experience it depends. I take my 1/10s more seriously thank my 1/8s so I go through 1/10th tyres a lot more quickly. Have gone through a pair of green DDs on a 2wd buggy in a day's practice but fronts do last an age!

2 - Ball diff as standard - no leaking fluid and if built and setup properly, ball diffs will last a long time. I would pick up tungsten carbide balls and ceramic thrust bearing off the bat. Maintenance yes 2wd much easier but I find setup is much more critical in 2wd vs 4wd because of the fact you're only getting power through the one end of the car and it'll have a large say in how much forward bite and turning your car will have. Great way to learn about the dynamics of a car I think

Mason

push on exit? looks like you're rear weight percentages went way up on lap 1.

Dino_D

I am thinking of switching to run an associated, and I was particularly interested in getting a B5M Lite kit.

My question would be, what parts are required to change it to a 4 gear mid from a lite kit? 4 gear B5M gearbox, idler gears. What about the lay shaft? Is the B5M layshaft different than the light, and I assume I need a 4 gear motor plate and gear cover as well.
Also if I wanted to convert the lite to a rear motor. Is there anything else required besides the B5 conversion?

bilster44

iTrader: (1)

"I" was only answering someones question is all...that came up on THIS thread.

Mason

doing this from memory.. to go from 3 gear to 4 gear, you would need the 4 gear box (v2 for better mesh), extra idler gear and 2 bearings for it, non-v2 top shaft with 2 more bearings if I'm not mistaken. The v2 top shaft is meant for the 3 gear with smaller bearings.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

The v2 4 gear case uses the v2 top shaft and 5x10x4 bearings

Mason

thanks Wildcat.. its been a long week and weekend with regionals.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

All he should need is the v2 4 gear case, 4 gear motor plate, idler gear and 2x 5x10x4 bearings

Dino_D

Thanks Mason & wildcat. I will get those parts on order.