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Old 08-04-2014, 09:54 AM
  #1276  
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Originally Posted by TJames987
any tips from the pro's on how the free up their 6.2's for more corner speed and less pushy on a large parking lot track?

I am running Yokomo yellow front and rear blues with basically the kit setup except for inner holes on the bulkheads for camber links (long link)

Thanks
Narrow up your car a bit in the rear and add some front arm sweep. I would run the suspension mounts like this:

FF
(.. ) ( ..)
Fr
( . ) ( . )
RF
( ..) (.. )
( ...)(... )

Also, raise your roll center to 1mm under all mounts. This will increase the reaction time of the car helping it gain overall traction and steering.

Go to short links all around, it will again allow the car to react quicker and switch directions faster.

If you are running the stock rear diff oil, I would try something heavier. I was running 3000cst on a medium grip parking lot and the car felt better than with 1500, which is already heavier than the 40wt I think they suggest. So heavier should help.

The last couple of adjustments would be adding about 1 more mm of shims to your steering for a more aggressive corner entry and shortening your wheelbase in the rear and/or front. For a smaller turning radius and better low speed steering.
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Old 08-04-2014, 10:27 AM
  #1277  
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Originally Posted by samnelso
They're certainly a good thing for tracks that run boards. With curbs or dots servo saver isn't needed. With that said, I run them on my cars as well, although I'm not sure if they actually help mitigate breakage. Today's servos certainly are not going anywhere and I probably run them more out of habit that anything. Note, offroad does not use them.

BTW your cars look good and nice camera work.

Makes sense, thanks for that and your comments on my cars! I'm just getting back into the 1/10 competitive car scene and have a lot to learn.

Some of you here have the car setup down to a science!


So I ended up going with another RS Gen 2 ESC and a 13.5 Redline to try the Super Stock Class... I was so wanting a RSX, but our track isn't big enough for modified, and I can't see myself really running in that class at big open events... Walk before I run
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Old 08-12-2014, 08:45 PM
  #1278  
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Default Rear Diff Clearance

Hi I am new to RC and have just built the TC6.2, and have notice the rear diff spool is almost touching the chassis, is this normal?
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Old 08-13-2014, 09:30 AM
  #1279  
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Originally Posted by AE Driver
Hi I am new to RC and have just built the TC6.2, and have notice the rear diff spool is almost touching the chassis, is this normal?
the flange of the gear diff gets very close to the side of the cutout in the chassis, but should not be touching. Mine, with the mid-low cam adjusters, is maybe .010-.015" from touching.
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:09 AM
  #1280  
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Questions??

Hey guys!! I've been around on road for a long time , stepped away about 10 years ago possibly longer! I used to be into 1/8 on road and 1/10 touring (carpet). I purchased the 6.2 around Christmas or New Years, and have been pleasantly surprised, so I decided to upgrade a few things! I know there's nothing wrong with the gear diffs, but I saw a pic, which I can't find now, and it had a white gear differential housing, I'm not sure if it was on a 6.1, or 6.2, but I guess that doesn't matter considering the similar drive trains! I just wanna know if anyone knows what car they came from, and also what manufacturers have differentials that fit into the Associated machine? Any help would be greatly appreciated! I went through all 80+pages trying to find the post, with no luck!
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Old 08-14-2014, 11:36 AM
  #1281  
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Originally Posted by im2tall
Hey guys!! I've been around on road for a long time , stepped away about 10 years ago possibly longer! I used to be into 1/8 on road and 1/10 touring (carpet). I purchased the 6.2 around Christmas or New Years, and have been pleasantly surprised, so I decided to upgrade a few things! I know there's nothing wrong with the gear diffs, but I saw a pic, which I can't find now, and it had a white gear differential housing, I'm not sure if it was on a 6.1, or 6.2, but I guess that doesn't matter considering the similar drive trains! I just wanna know if anyone knows what car they came from, and also what manufacturers have differentials that fit into the Associated machine? Any help would be greatly appreciated! I went through all 80+pages trying to find the post, with no luck!
Tamiya uses a white diff housing. AE are all black.
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Old 08-14-2014, 01:22 PM
  #1282  
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Originally Posted by Sean Cochran
Tamiya uses a white diff housing. AE are all black.
Thanks for the feedback!
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:33 PM
  #1283  
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Gents,

I felt compelled to put together a build tips video over the course of my latest build. Mostly for fun I suppose, but nonetheless I hope some find it useful. Check it out, like, comment, and share.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 08-15-2014, 03:26 AM
  #1284  
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Nice, Thanks Samnelso!
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:57 AM
  #1285  
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very cool Sam.
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Old 08-20-2014, 04:14 AM
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I finished my TC6.2 last night. Looking forward to testing it at the club. Just need a servo saver as the Racers Edge one is too big in diameter. Hopefully I put it together right....





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Old 08-20-2014, 05:54 AM
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anyone else having trouble with your front toe going way out of whack for no apparent reason. ive had to put it on the gauges almost every race and found that i went from 0 toe out to like 4 or 5

anyone else have this issue?
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Old 08-20-2014, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by TJames987
anyone else having trouble with your front toe going way out of whack for no apparent reason. ive had to put it on the gauges almost every race and found that i went from 0 toe out to like 4 or 5

anyone else have this issue?
Sounds like your ball cups are moving on the turnbuckle, likely due to the threads on the turnbuckle are not holding firm in the ball cup.

My rear ball cup on the right side kept getting knocked out of whack almost every run, simply change the ball cup and be sure to slowly thread the new ball cup onto the turnbuckle.

The threads on the Associated turnbuckles are not very deep so knocking them out of whack is only a matter of time. There are heavier turnbuckles, balls and ball cups out there if the problem persists.
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Old 08-20-2014, 10:37 AM
  #1289  
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Originally Posted by ViperZ;13479501[URL=http://s1338.photobucket.com/user/byfung/media/RC%20Touring/DSC_4052_zpsec43de42.jpg.html
[/URL]
Your build looks great!

Are those blue aluminum battery holders? Where did you get them from?
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Old 08-20-2014, 11:21 AM
  #1290  
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I believe those are the AE battery hold down:

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/31645/
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