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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-14-2016, 08:30 PM
  #12961  
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Wondering if an updated kit is coming soon..... Amain has had no RB6 kits in stock for a bit, HRP hasn't had one for weeks and Tower only has about 4.

could we be seeing a new kit with the 3 gear and sideways chassis soon??
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Old 01-14-2016, 08:31 PM
  #12962  
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RZ6 chassis?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?
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Old 01-18-2016, 05:12 AM
  #12963  
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Anyone know of a cvd rebuild kit?
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:20 PM
  #12964  
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Did anyone tried the Sworkz low rider on the RB6 ?
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Old 01-18-2016, 03:00 PM
  #12965  
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Originally Posted by oPAULo
Anyone know of a cvd rebuild kit?
I don't believe so. I have just purchased complete pieces or the drive shaft. Very rarely have I had to replace anything else.
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Old 01-18-2016, 03:45 PM
  #12966  
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Originally Posted by Kraig
I don't believe so. I have just purchased complete pieces or the drive shaft. Very rarely have I had to replace anything else.
I couldn't find anything.
Trying to save some money. The pucks setup lasts forever but can't get MIP axles anymore. Avid axles are half the price of KYO but don't come with the CVD parts. With just a little machine work I'm going to put Avid axles in MIP pucks drive shafts but need stock size CVD parts.
I just can't see spending 60 bucks on stock outdrives and drive shafts and axles when I got the whole car for 100.
MIP kinda messed up by inventing the pucks system because if you take care of them properly they really do last forever. My son beats the time out of his buggy. 3 dollars worth of pucks every now and then and it's good as new. Outdrives are still perfect. I have a whole new pucks setup for mine but zero spare axles so I'm saving the axles in case he breaks another one and trying to set mine up as cheaply as possible yet still have off the shelf stuff that doesn't require machine work.
I'm going to have to bite the bullet on something soon though. My stock shafts and outdrives are just about gone.
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Old 01-18-2016, 07:07 PM
  #12967  
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A couple of things;
First did I miss something with setups? It seems like there was a huge push for as narrow as possible for the rear hinge pins and buy the 3 line axles space them out. Blah blah blah, now tebos most current set up has the car set up to its widest potential front and back?

Second has anyone ran the JTP towers? Do they really make a differenc?
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Old 01-18-2016, 07:33 PM
  #12968  
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Originally Posted by oPAULo
I couldn't find anything.
Trying to save some money. The pucks setup lasts forever but can't get MIP axles anymore. Avid axles are half the price of KYO but don't come with the CVD parts. With just a little machine work I'm going to put Avid axles in MIP pucks drive shafts but need stock size CVD parts.
I just can't see spending 60 bucks on stock outdrives and drive shafts and axles when I got the whole car for 100.
MIP kinda messed up by inventing the pucks system because if you take care of them properly they really do last forever. My son beats the time out of his buggy. 3 dollars worth of pucks every now and then and it's good as new. Outdrives are still perfect. I have a whole new pucks setup for mine but zero spare axles so I'm saving the axles in case he breaks another one and trying to set mine up as cheaply as possible yet still have off the shelf stuff that doesn't require machine work.
I'm going to have to bite the bullet on something soon though. My stock shafts and outdrives are just about gone.
If it's the stock kit CVD parts you need, just buy new axle stubs, they come with the CVD parts and should only run you 20 bucks for a pair of the or less

If running the stock diff and bones, grease them some and it should help them last longer. Also you can repin the bones with some Traxxas 2.5x12mm pins and they do seem to last longer than the stock pins.
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Old 01-19-2016, 02:55 AM
  #12969  
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Originally Posted by nikorentin
Did anyone tried the Sworkz low rider on the RB6 ?
check out the rb6 and zx6 group on fb theres a guy running that tranny on his 6
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Old 01-19-2016, 11:59 AM
  #12970  
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I'm looking at getting a Rb6, but the one I'm looking at is setup as a MM. What parts are needed to convert back to RM? MM doesn't work at our low bite outdoor track. Thanks gents.
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Old 01-19-2016, 03:09 PM
  #12971  
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Originally Posted by joel45acp
I'm looking at getting a Rb6, but the one I'm looking at is setup as a MM. What parts are needed to convert back to RM? MM doesn't work at our low bite outdoor track. Thanks gents.
You may want to give it a try, I acquired a couple of RB6s and we have been making them work on low traction dirt tracks. My MMs always make up time in tight sections.

To switch you need a diff case, bulkhead, shock tower, and hinge pin brace. Maybe 1 or 2 other minor things. Almost anyone here including me could sell you the parts.
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Old 01-20-2016, 11:21 AM
  #12972  
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Just got me this beauty. Might try MM at our track but I'm sure it'll get switched to RM very soon.

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Old 01-20-2016, 12:52 PM
  #12973  
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Any ETA on the new chassis?
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Old 01-22-2016, 09:43 AM
  #12974  
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Any of you gents running MM on loose 8th scale, semi smooth outdoor tracks? Need some pointers on base setup for such a track. Thanks in advance
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Old 01-22-2016, 02:22 PM
  #12975  
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Originally Posted by joel45acp
Any of you gents running MM on loose 8th scale, semi smooth outdoor tracks? Need some pointers on base setup for such a track. Thanks in advance
Tanner Day ran an outdoor event sometime last year (2015) and I heard his rear motor setup was really good. I think arms were spaced to D out/ D out. Maybe petit rc has it.
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