3srcracing

iTrader: (29)

Off hand does anyone know the part numbers for the titanium nitride shock shafts?

Wild Cherry

Had another besides myself testing tonight.
We know about the mod for a while ,it came back up after JConcepts Nats in Chico.

We both ran with it two packs.

Call um a team mate for good reason....

We needed to try and having another driver helps back up the testing ..
Tommorow a lot more work ahead.

PFKAOG

iTrader: (12)

The weeds in your yard getting too high?

SkiRideDrive

Hello guys, I am looking to join the B5M party. I am located in North San Diego County and plan on running primarily at SDRC and occasionally at OCRC.

I have included a list of what I plan on getting to start off. Please chime in if you think I should change any items and anything I will need in addition to what I've listed below. Please keep in mind that I am starting from scratch. I have only run 1/8 nitro previously and sold off all of my rc related gear a while back.

Buggy: B5M
Radio: Aitronics MT4 (any suggestions for lipo for transmitter?)
Batteries: Promatch Shorty
Battery Charger/Power Supply: Icharger 206B Ticket Combo (Do I need any additional wires or leads?)
ESC: Hobbywing Justock
Motor: Schurspeed 17.5
Gearing: (any suggestions?)
Steering Servo: Savox SC-1258TG
Tires: Dirt Web - Gold
Spare Parts: (any suggestions?)
Spare Fastener Kit: (any suggestions?)
Shock Oil: (any suggestions?)
Setup Tools: (any suggestions?)
Tools/Allens/Wheelnuts: Was thinking MIP (any suggestions?)
Body Paint: Tamiya

Thanks in advance for your help! Let me know if you think I would need anything else. The only thing I really have already is a soldering iron.

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

Build the car and try it out with the box set up. Then you can ask locals about set up. After that you can decide which direction you want to go. I think most people running a B5M stock like them lighter than they come out of the box but some dont.

Those are both very competitive tracks. I like my B5M mid-weight. So if it was me I'd want to go lighter. Set up and weight will be very important. You shouldn't need a lot of spares. I'd buy a few things to shed some weight. Ti turnbuckles & front axles, exotek slipper eliminator, an aluminum screw kit, aluminum wheel nuts, and maybe a cf battery strap. If you don't have a budget maybe pucks too. Don't get me wrong, you can run the car as it comes just fine. As far as the charger goes, why not just but a icharger 406? I'd recommend a low profile servo for stock....Futaba or KO. Why not try an SMC lipo? I swear by them and they are very inexpensive. MIP tools are the best. I think for the money there is no better radio than the MT4, the only problem is that after you use it for a while and then try an M12, you'll hate yourself. I make these recommendations based on the fact that you're going to run stock and where you'll be running. I also don't claim to be be a pro or the fastest guy at any track. That being said I've tried it all and have gone as far as to mod my car and weigh it after making each mod....so what I've recommended is the best bank for your buck. I own everything that I've recommended except for the Icharger 406...I have the 410. You want to get crazy? Run the aka light weight wheels and tires too....I mostly run outdoors so I can't remember which ones. Typos with their special wheel (Evo?) that has the 1/8 scale style bead. Those are worth 40 grams alone.

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

When you run mod you notice the battery voltage drop that you get as the race goes on less. I don't want to call it normal but it is explainable. I don't know what kind of shape your batteries are in etc so I'm not going to say much more.

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Chalk me up to someone who does not like it light. I took both of my cars to LRH tonight. Added the Pucks system, milled motor plate, cut gears, all plastic suspension mounts, borrowed a set of broken in tires to try, and the thing still would go tail happy on me. Took my Shurr Speed out and put it in the mod car with all of the aluminum stuff in it was stuck to the track. Did not notice any appreciable speed decrease, and motor only came off 5 degrees warner which topped off at between 145-150 depending on run time. I wont be putting all of the stock stuff back in, but will definitely be running the stock top shaft instead of aluminum, will throw the aluminum hubs back in there, getting rid of the cut gears as well. I like the car better a bit butt heavy.

dezertranger96

iTrader: (24)

savox 1258 doesnt work in the b5 from my experience, i would go wtrh a protek 100ss if i were you

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

What experience have you had that makes you think it wont work? Glitching? Brown outs? My brother has this servo in a 22 with a Spektrum radio (old DX3R) and zero problems. I preffer the XP Digital servos myself.

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

I've run the Futaba BLS 451 for over 2 years now. I also tried that Spektrum low pro servo and it was ok. No complaints. My buddy uses the Savox 1258 with no issues.

I think the days of 'omg don't run that servo' are long behind us. They are all pretty high quality now.

GTSSTANG

iTrader: (22)

I have also used the Futaba BLS 451 for a very long time in several vehicles, they are great with zero issues.

I also, just purchased a SAVOX 1258 for a B4.2. It is a good servo, no glitches or brown outs, but at first it buzzed so much I thought it was broken.

GTSSTANG

iTrader: (22)

Wrong thread. Meant for the B5 RM thread...

GTSSTANG

iTrader: (22)

Are you guys that are running in loose conditions adding more weight to the front/rear?

wayboarder

iTrader: (14)

Brass...

Bubonic-X

iTrader: (4)

3 things Skiride..
Your radio is a good choice but Airtronics just came out with the MT4s it is a hundred bucks more but it is well worth the money because it is just as fast as the M12 and the screen is backlit

HobbyWing is a great speedo no questions asked. But when it comes to Quality and ease of use and setup I love the Orion Thier brakes are super smooth and other guys at the track will have a program box you can use to set it up. They came out with the R10 stock for 129.00 bucks it goes down to a 5 turn motor it just doesnt have any boost settings

That charger is complete overkill My buddy and I have a Thunder Power AC/DC charger I got mine on ebay for 60 bucks, we charge at 6 to 7 amps and he finishes top 5 in the A. Im an old fart so i race for fun in Arizona

The main reason i bring this up is because I did this too when I first started and all too many times I have seen guys get into this with the cheapest equipment or sometimes the most expensive equipment and they realize it is not what they needed
Go with the stuff that is reliable and will take you beyond novice. i have been doing this for 25 yrs so I have seen alot of people make the wrong choices when it comes to speedo's and radios. They realize quickly that they cant be competitive with cheap equipment or the wrong equipment and have to buy it all over again