Team Durango DNX408 Prototype
10-30-2010, 08:07 AM
#976
anybody know how much it's suppose to weight?
10-30-2010, 08:13 AM
#977
Im actually not really diggin the way they've done it here......In a standard configuration the bone wear's along with the pin and coupler.....the coupler or Pinion output usually lasts the longest with switching from 1 hole to the next if needed....When that bone wear's out its pretty inexpensive to replace along with the CV guts and go to the next hole(Brand new set-up)
Now with the 408 set-up you'll be needing to replace the pinion which IMO isn't a smart idea, Now your Ring and Pinion mesh will be out as a R+P wear as 1 and replacing the pinion due to the CV end being worn out will start to mess with your shimming.
Looks cool in pics no doubt but as to the theory behind it, Id like to know from gerd or who ever came up with the idea.
10-30-2010, 08:14 AM
#979
Odd pinion
I guess it is to be able to run pinion bearings with normal or just slightly larger ID. If they had it the opposite way the pinion would normally have a larger OD that require a larger ID bearing (think Xray 808).
10-30-2010, 12:02 PM
#981
SO...basically no one really knows why it is like that. Just some specualtions. Hopefully some-one who really knows will fill us in. I would hate to waste $200-$300 more on a buggy that just has bling on it with no real functions to the bling. Hell, can almost pick up (2) HB hara editions for the price of one of these.
10-30-2010, 12:58 PM
#982
SO...basically no one really knows why it is like that. Just some specualtions. Hopefully some-one who really knows will fill us in. I would hate to waste $200-$300 more on a buggy that just has bling on it with no real functions to the bling. Hell, can almost pick up (2) HB hara editions for the price of one of these.
On the 1/8 nitro buggy, the benefits are less pronounced, but it does allow for the battery pack to fit in a location it wouldn't have been able to with a regular drive shaft set-up. Also, the raised shafts mean that the center diff gear is also raised, negating the need for an opening in the chassis, so less possibility of a stone getting in and damaging the gear teeth.
the way the shaft connects with the pinion looks very similar to what XRAY & Serpent have, but reinforced with aluminum braces & inserts so hopefully less stress on the pinion bearings.
10-31-2010, 07:19 AM
#983
The system was borrowed from the 1/10 electric buggy. The design was initially to allow the battery packs to fit under the drive shaft, allowing for a narrower chassis and central weight distribution.
On the 1/8 nitro buggy, the benefits are less pronounced, but it does allow for the battery pack to fit in a location it wouldn't have been able to with a regular drive shaft set-up. Also, the raised shafts mean that the center diff gear is also raised, negating the need for an opening in the chassis, so less possibility of a stone getting in and damaging the gear teeth.
the way the shaft connects with the pinion looks very similar to what XRAY & Serpent have, but reinforced with aluminum braces & inserts so hopefully less stress on the pinion bearings.
On the 1/8 nitro buggy, the benefits are less pronounced, but it does allow for the battery pack to fit in a location it wouldn't have been able to with a regular drive shaft set-up. Also, the raised shafts mean that the center diff gear is also raised, negating the need for an opening in the chassis, so less possibility of a stone getting in and damaging the gear teeth.
the way the shaft connects with the pinion looks very similar to what XRAY & Serpent have, but reinforced with aluminum braces & inserts so hopefully less stress on the pinion bearings.
10-31-2010, 07:25 AM
#984
Tech Master
iTrader: (18)
The system was borrowed from the 1/10 electric buggy. The design was initially to allow the battery packs to fit under the drive shaft, allowing for a narrower chassis and central weight distribution.
On the 1/8 nitro buggy, the benefits are less pronounced, but it does allow for the battery pack to fit in a location it wouldn't have been able to with a regular drive shaft set-up. Also, the raised shafts mean that the center diff gear is also raised, negating the need for an opening in the chassis, so less possibility of a stone getting in and damaging the gear teeth.
the way the shaft connects with the pinion looks very similar to what XRAY & Serpent have, but reinforced with aluminum braces & inserts so hopefully less stress on the pinion bearings.
On the 1/8 nitro buggy, the benefits are less pronounced, but it does allow for the battery pack to fit in a location it wouldn't have been able to with a regular drive shaft set-up. Also, the raised shafts mean that the center diff gear is also raised, negating the need for an opening in the chassis, so less possibility of a stone getting in and damaging the gear teeth.
the way the shaft connects with the pinion looks very similar to what XRAY & Serpent have, but reinforced with aluminum braces & inserts so hopefully less stress on the pinion bearings.
10-31-2010, 08:15 AM
#985
True enough. This is probably optimal from a weight distribution standpoint, but from the time they showed the tray layout I had a sinking feeling that swapping batteries was going to be a bit of a chore. That could potentially be one "con" of the design: robust and quick, but more demanding maintenance-wise.
10-31-2010, 09:29 AM
#986
Hello everyone, sorry for not responding sooner. Been very busy practicing at the Worlds and attending the R/C Pro Finals in Texas.
Let me answer a few of the questions to the best of my ability.
The wing doesn't break. After the crashes I took in Thailand I would say it's actually one of the strongest wings on the market.
I am going to venture to guess that the car in stock form will be around 3450g.
I don't know the theory. What I do know is this: When I got to Thailand I had to run Gerd's origional car that he had put countless gallons on. In the course of the Worlds practice and the R/C Pro Finals I have put nearly 5 gallons on the Ring and Pinion gears of this car. Better yet they still look brand new!! Plus you don't have to shim them. Just drop them in and run. There is zero flex in the bulkhead with the clamshell design being held tight by the aluminum bulkhead.
The battery (and the receiver for that point) are easily accessible with the removal of 3 small screws from the receiver box. It looks more complicated than it is but it is actually very easy.
__________________________________________________ _______________
I am really digging this car. You can feel the low CG on the track. It just feels stable and not tippy at all. It is unique in many ways and the maintenance is a breeze. 6 screws to take out the front and rear diffs. You can take out all the diffs but the arms are still attached to the chassis so you don't have arms and driveshafts dangling from the car when taking diffs out.
Please let me know what other questions I can answer.
-Ryan Lutz
Let me answer a few of the questions to the best of my ability.
I am going to venture to guess that the car in stock form will be around 3450g.
Im actually not really diggin the way they've done it here......In a standard configuration the bone wear's along with the pin and coupler.....the coupler or Pinion output usually lasts the longest with switching from 1 hole to the next if needed....When that bone wear's out its pretty inexpensive to replace along with the CV guts and go to the next hole(Brand new set-up)
Now with the 408 set-up you'll be needing to replace the pinion which IMO isn't a smart idea, Now your Ring and Pinion mesh will be out as a R+P wear as 1 and replacing the pinion due to the CV end being worn out will start to mess with your shimming.
Looks cool in pics no doubt but as to the theory behind it, Id like to know from gerd or who ever came up with the idea.
Now with the 408 set-up you'll be needing to replace the pinion which IMO isn't a smart idea, Now your Ring and Pinion mesh will be out as a R+P wear as 1 and replacing the pinion due to the CV end being worn out will start to mess with your shimming.
Looks cool in pics no doubt but as to the theory behind it, Id like to know from gerd or who ever came up with the idea.
True enough. This is probably optimal from a weight distribution standpoint, but from the time they showed the tray layout I had a sinking feeling that swapping batteries was going to be a bit of a chore. That could potentially be one "con" of the design: robust and quick, but more demanding maintenance-wise.
__________________________________________________ _______________
I am really digging this car. You can feel the low CG on the track. It just feels stable and not tippy at all. It is unique in many ways and the maintenance is a breeze. 6 screws to take out the front and rear diffs. You can take out all the diffs but the arms are still attached to the chassis so you don't have arms and driveshafts dangling from the car when taking diffs out.
Please let me know what other questions I can answer.
-Ryan Lutz
10-31-2010, 09:51 AM
#987
I don't know the theory. What I do know is this: When I got to Thailand I had to run Gerd's origional car that he had put countless gallons on. In the course of the Worlds practice and the R/C Pro Finals I have put nearly 5 gallons on the Ring and Pinion gears of this car. Better yet they still look brand new!! Plus you don't have to shim them. Just drop them in and run. There is zero flex in the bulkhead with the clamshell design being held tight by the aluminum bulkhead.
10-31-2010, 09:51 AM
#988
Hello everyone, sorry for not responding sooner. Been very busy practicing at the Worlds and attending the R/C Pro Finals in Texas.
Let me answer a few of the questions to the best of my ability.
The wing doesn't break. After the crashes I took in Thailand I would say it's actually one of the strongest wings on the market.
I am going to venture to guess that the car in stock form will be around 3450g.
I don't know the theory. What I do know is this: When I got to Thailand I had to run Gerd's origional car that he had put countless gallons on. In the course of the Worlds practice and the R/C Pro Finals I have put nearly 5 gallons on the Ring and Pinion gears of this car. Better yet they still look brand new!! Plus you don't have to shim them. Just drop them in and run. There is zero flex in the bulkhead with the clamshell design being held tight by the aluminum bulkhead.
The battery (and the receiver for that point) are easily accessible with the removal of 3 small screws from the receiver box. It looks more complicated than it is but it is actually very easy.
__________________________________________________ _______________
I am really digging this car. You can feel the low CG on the track. It just feels stable and not tippy at all. It is unique in many ways and the maintenance is a breeze. 6 screws to take out the front and rear diffs. You can take out all the diffs but the arms are still attached to the chassis so you don't have arms and driveshafts dangling from the car when taking diffs out.
Please let me know what other questions I can answer.
-Ryan Lutz
Let me answer a few of the questions to the best of my ability.
The wing doesn't break. After the crashes I took in Thailand I would say it's actually one of the strongest wings on the market.
I am going to venture to guess that the car in stock form will be around 3450g.
I don't know the theory. What I do know is this: When I got to Thailand I had to run Gerd's origional car that he had put countless gallons on. In the course of the Worlds practice and the R/C Pro Finals I have put nearly 5 gallons on the Ring and Pinion gears of this car. Better yet they still look brand new!! Plus you don't have to shim them. Just drop them in and run. There is zero flex in the bulkhead with the clamshell design being held tight by the aluminum bulkhead.
The battery (and the receiver for that point) are easily accessible with the removal of 3 small screws from the receiver box. It looks more complicated than it is but it is actually very easy.
__________________________________________________ _______________
I am really digging this car. You can feel the low CG on the track. It just feels stable and not tippy at all. It is unique in many ways and the maintenance is a breeze. 6 screws to take out the front and rear diffs. You can take out all the diffs but the arms are still attached to the chassis so you don't have arms and driveshafts dangling from the car when taking diffs out.
Please let me know what other questions I can answer.
-Ryan Lutz
Making it look easy!!Pro status ya know!
You have my vote for the worlds!!
Cant wait to see you prove the polls wrong!!
Hope all is well and glad your having a blast!!
Keep up the great job in the RC business!! We need it.
Snow is starting to stick in Tahoe keep those goggles clean your going to need them!! I will get a hold of you when its time down some DEEP trenches. Back country has 4 feet already. As soon as the snow falls lower at Little Norway we will connect the dots and ride hard just like you drive hard.
See ya around!
Matthew
GFDracing
10-31-2010, 10:14 AM
#989
Just thought I would post on here about what took place at the RC Pro Int. Finals in Tx. The track conditions was unbelievable I did not know that RC cars can make ruts in a track to that magnitude it actually looked like a MX track. Its hard to believe that these cars can take that much abuse for a 60min main. and the Darango looked really good in those conditions!!
10-31-2010, 12:15 PM
#990
I know that this has already probably been asked but whats the price on one of these? and when is it supposed to be realeased? Thinking about picking one of these puppies up for the delta winter series.... 