14LikesSerpent 977 Viper
06-08-2014, 10:37 AM
#587
SRG-BLS servos
out of curiosity, anyone using Sanwa SRG-BLS servos for both throttle and steering in the 977?
Wondering whether these servos would be "man" enough for the job.
Would you guys recommend it?
Thanks!
Wondering whether these servos would be "man" enough for the job.
Would you guys recommend it?
Thanks!
06-08-2014, 04:00 PM
#588
Marcus,
Its been a while, but I was experiencing the same type of tire wear when I was running the 966 at RCRCNT. I think I played with the length and mounting location of the rear upper suspension link and got the tires to do the accepted cone on both tires. I have to admit though, your car looked plenty "acceptable" to me during the main regardless of how the rear tires looked at the end.
Steve McLaughlin
Its been a while, but I was experiencing the same type of tire wear when I was running the 966 at RCRCNT. I think I played with the length and mounting location of the rear upper suspension link and got the tires to do the accepted cone on both tires. I have to admit though, your car looked plenty "acceptable" to me during the main regardless of how the rear tires looked at the end.
Steve McLaughlin
Its a WC so it has CVD's
06-08-2014, 11:39 PM
#589
No those servos are designed for 1/10th 190mm TC. They are only 7kg torque so no where near strong enough for a 1/8th scale car - no low profile servo would be suitable. If your a sanwa fan (as I am) then look at the ERS-961 or 962 brilliant servos for the money.
06-09-2014, 08:53 AM
#590
Thanks Dan_Vector!
06-23-2014, 07:04 AM
#591
Serpent 977 Alu screw kit
Anybody using these?
If so, any thoughts? are they robust enough?
Thanks!
If so, any thoughts? are they robust enough?
Thanks!
06-25-2014, 05:20 AM
#592
In my 411 and 747 I use the alu screw kits without any issue but prefer the titanium in my 977 as I feel more confident with the stronger hardware for the riggers of 1/8th racing. I'm sure the alu screws would probably be fine as well but personal preference in titanium.
06-26-2014, 06:55 PM
#593
I use the Xceed RC Titanium screw kit as titanium is stronger that aluminium however the aluminium screws are a touch lighter.
In my 411 and 747 I use the alu screw kits without any issue but prefer the titanium in my 977 as I feel more confident with the stronger hardware for the riggers of 1/8th racing. I'm sure the alu screws would probably be fine as well but personal preference in titanium.
In my 411 and 747 I use the alu screw kits without any issue but prefer the titanium in my 977 as I feel more confident with the stronger hardware for the riggers of 1/8th racing. I'm sure the alu screws would probably be fine as well but personal preference in titanium.
06-26-2014, 06:57 PM
#594
Thanks
06-26-2014, 08:02 PM
#596
06-27-2014, 01:01 AM
#598
1. Aluminum clutch bell 2. clutch spring
1. Is aluminum clutch bell really hard to set up? My friend says so but I have used it before, not sure if I was lucky, I got no problem at that time. I will only use it for big races. The bell I have (I got it from my friend) has distinct threads inside the bell where the contact between the bell and the clutch shoe occurs. Is it normal? I just ordered a new bell but just curious.
2. I recently posted a thread regarding possible bogging at lower end. But it seems to me that it's coming from clutch. My friend says it's from really bad clutch. He told me to use Sheperd super hard clutch spring but I don't have it and I don't understand why it has to be that. I've been using Serpent hard spring. I tightened the preload 3.5 turns in. How do I solve this annoying problem? Last race, I ended up breaking the con rod. The bogging must have put too much load on the engine. Please advise,
2. I recently posted a thread regarding possible bogging at lower end. But it seems to me that it's coming from clutch. My friend says it's from really bad clutch. He told me to use Sheperd super hard clutch spring but I don't have it and I don't understand why it has to be that. I've been using Serpent hard spring. I tightened the preload 3.5 turns in. How do I solve this annoying problem? Last race, I ended up breaking the con rod. The bogging must have put too much load on the engine. Please advise,
06-27-2014, 01:13 AM
#599
06-27-2014, 01:20 AM
#600
1. Is aluminum clutch bell really hard to set up? My friend says so but I have used it before, not sure if I was lucky, I got no problem at that time. I will only use it for big races. The bell I have (I got it from my friend) has distinct threads inside the bell where the contact between the bell and the clutch shoe occurs. Is it normal? I just ordered a new bell but just curious.
2. I recently posted a thread regarding possible bogging at lower end. But it seems to me that it's coming from clutch. My friend says it's from really bad clutch. He told me to use Sheperd super hard clutch spring but I don't have it and I don't understand why it has to be that. I've been using Serpent hard spring. I tightened the preload 3.5 turns in. How do I solve this annoying problem? Last race, I ended up breaking the con rod. The bogging must have put too much load on the engine. Please advise,
2. I recently posted a thread regarding possible bogging at lower end. But it seems to me that it's coming from clutch. My friend says it's from really bad clutch. He told me to use Sheperd super hard clutch spring but I don't have it and I don't understand why it has to be that. I've been using Serpent hard spring. I tightened the preload 3.5 turns in. How do I solve this annoying problem? Last race, I ended up breaking the con rod. The bogging must have put too much load on the engine. Please advise,
2. What end float and end play are you running? Make sure it's 0.6mm and 0.1mm. Below 0.6 will cause bogging. It's difficult to say how many turns in to set the adj nut because the setting varies clutch to clutch engine to engine but start with 10mm down from the end of the crankshaft and then tune it from there. You don't need a shepherd spring - there is nothing wrong with the stock spring. However it is possible that the spring has been damaged by excessive heat or is old and so changing to a new spring may help.
I doubt your broken conrod is totally attributable to a bogging clutch however you will see higher engine temps if the clutch is either bogging or slipping. My advice is to recheck your engine settings as well before continuing on a new engine as it's likely the piston/sleeve/head/main bearing is toast when the rod breaks...