nutfluff

iTrader: (5)

Hey Ryan -

I posted a question a few back about the Ackermann on the T and the R. Is the position towards the front of the car (top hole) considered more or less?

Thanks again!

Merciless

Less aggressive steering the further forward you mount the links on the ackerman plate

Turbo Joe

iTrader: (41)

I use a chrome top for my MBX-5 and it works pretty good. If you want to check it out sometime, or see if it's just your box just PM me. I live right around the corner from HobbyTown USA in Corona.

A few of us are going to Rev tomorrow night to practice...my buddy who's going has two Mugens (R and T) and two Mugen boxes if you wanna see those as well. Just let me know and we can get it hooked up.

Turbo Joe

iTrader: (41)

AAACCCKKK!!!...another SoCaler...

tcmerf

Thanks Turbo. Actually going to check out The Pit this weekend. My parents live not far from there and my nephews will get a kick out of it. That is granted i can get this thing started! I have the RD logics box which looks to be a copy of the Crome top. I also have an Associated one but i need to get a new plug for it. I like the RD logics bett if i can get it to work. Its bigger but it does not have the belt ot wear out.

RYAN BARNES

nf- Merciless is pointing you in the right direction. Basically the more forward you are in the ackerman the smoother the steering response will be and and the car will react smoother. The more torward the REAR you run in the ackerman the buggy/truggy will have quicker steering response and react quicker to your commands. Personally I'm always in the middle or rear mount location because I like the quick response.

nutfluff

iTrader: (5)

Thanks. I've been running the most forward hole and have insane steering in my Truggy. I know my setup has lots to do with it but god to know I'm not running an aggressive Ackermann.

Happy Holidays!!

Turbo Joe

iTrader: (41)

What's The Pit? Is that the place in Orange County?

tcmerf

It is alive! Finally got the box set up. I actually think the wheel needed to be smaller because it took a while even when it was dead center to get it to reach the flywheel. Anyway hopefully saturday i will get to runa couple of tanks at the PIt. Did someone have a good baseline setup for the R.

RYAN BARNES

merf- Give this a try and tell me what you think.

RYAN BARNES setup –MBX5R

FRONT END
Shock oil- 400wt
Pistons- 1.5
Springs- Grey
Shock position- 2nd hole in on tower, outside on arm
Ride height- Arms level (12mm of black clips)
Ackerman- middle hole (King Headz –offset)
Track width- 277mm
Front lower arm- 2mm spacer in front
Camber- -3degrees
Toe out- -0.5 degrees per side
Castor- 1mm spacer in front of top upper arm
Upper arm hinge pin- middle insert on tower, lower block in rear( plus 1.5mm spacer)
Diff- 5000wt
Front swaybar- 2.3mm

CENTER
Diff- 7000wt
Gearing- 13/46
Clutch- aluminum, 1.0 springs
Brakes- RE high temp craddocks, doubled plates(no pads)

REAR END
Shock oil- 350wt
Pistons- 1.5
Springs- Blue
Shock position- middle on tower, outside on arm
Ride height- Arms level (14mm of black clips)
Rear hubs- 1mm spacer in front, lower hinge hole
Camber- -3 degrees
Toe block- -2.75
Antisquat- middle insert (2 degrees)
Diff- 2000wt
Rear swaybar- 2.8mm

NOTE- buggy has A LOT of down travel(droop), and you may notice some binding in the CVD’s at FULL droop, I prefer not to use droop screws that dig into the chassis and get out of adjustment. I prefer to use two small black o-rings (approx 3mm total) internally in the shocks(put on shaft before inserted into the body) to set droop.

tcmerf

Thanks Ryan. BTW why do you lower the upper arm mount so much in the rear? What does that do. Is that just to get the angle to match the lower arm?

TonysScrews

iTrader: (13)

The Mugen has the option to run reactive caster. To get rid of it you have to make the hinge pins parallel (like a C-hub car).

tcmerf

Thanks Tony. I keep reading about reactive caster. ow does it affect the car? Seems like it should increase castor as the suspension compresses correct?

RYAN BARNES

This is true, and the whole lowering of the rear of the top arm hinge pins was started by Chad Bradley back when he ran for Mugen, you can read that in ALL of his old setups. I tried it on my first MBX5 and really liked how it made the buggy handle, so I just carried it over to the MBX5R. Eck-tec makes a 1pc mount that puts your hinge pins in this lower location, and I worked with Jim at King Headz on all the measurements and they will have the extra low one available by the first of the year, and it will be a better fit than the Eck-tec because King Headz is slanting their holes accordingly. With the Eck-tec I had to modify it with a drill bit to get the hinge pins thru it. King Headz offers two 1pc mounts now but they are the same location as you get with the stock plastic mount options.

tcmerf

Those arm mounts about the only hopup i see myself getting right now. I dont even know which of the stock mounts are the lower ones. Is there a tuning guide somewhere for the Mugen.