Tamiya TB04 Pro
#722
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
The sway bars are on my possible upgrades list, though I usually keep my cars close to stock. Money saved on hop ups goes towards the next TRF
Possible Upgrades List
-Aluminium Pilot Shafts Set
-Aluminium Transmission Shafts Set
-Titanium Screw Set
-TRF418 Sway Bar Set
-Double Cardan Front CVD Shafts
Last edited by TB03Racer09; 07-11-2014 at 08:41 PM.
#723
Tech Adept
spyder_696, hobbywing recommends a fdr of 5-6.5 with your exact setup, 6.6 should run cool then. You could try a 23t or 24t pinion but I think you should try take a 5 minute break every 12 minutes running, its good for your electronics. I've found the weather can also heavily impact temperature.
High temperatures can also be caused by drag in the drivetrain which is caused by: pinion and spur too close together, poorly shimmed diffs/bevel gear/milter gears, any significant amount of binding anywhere. Your spur rubbing on the motor is a contributing factor to the heat, as it is introducing more drag into the drivetrain.
Try this. loosen the set screw on the pinion, turn the spur by hand. If there is a lot of resistance, your mesh is to tight. Then remove the pinion all together, push the car on the floor. Listen for any clicking, ticking or any form of binding.
Cadman1981, If you want an fdr under 3.5, you will need to lower the internal drive ration with larger bevel gear and/or smaller ring gears (like the 39t). See what fdr people are running at your track for those 2 classes and aim for that
High temperatures can also be caused by drag in the drivetrain which is caused by: pinion and spur too close together, poorly shimmed diffs/bevel gear/milter gears, any significant amount of binding anywhere. Your spur rubbing on the motor is a contributing factor to the heat, as it is introducing more drag into the drivetrain.
Try this. loosen the set screw on the pinion, turn the spur by hand. If there is a lot of resistance, your mesh is to tight. Then remove the pinion all together, push the car on the floor. Listen for any clicking, ticking or any form of binding.
Cadman1981, If you want an fdr under 3.5, you will need to lower the internal drive ration with larger bevel gear and/or smaller ring gears (like the 39t). See what fdr people are running at your track for those 2 classes and aim for that
#724
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
By comparison, the tb03 is perfectly straight. So is my evo6 and my 417.
#725
It's not warped as in tweaked, warped as in warped. It's pointed up on the ends and down in the middle. If you checked the droop on the front and rear of the same a arm, it measured .3-.5mm different front to rear. Mine had tweak too, but I could live with that. Had I known it was warped before I ran it I could of lived with that too.
By comparison, the tb03 is perfectly straight. So is my evo6 and my 417.
By comparison, the tb03 is perfectly straight. So is my evo6 and my 417.
#726
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
If your going to reheat the chassis to straighten it up, you will have to have the chassis on a perfectly flat surface that is level. You also can't heat it up too much because vertical pieces of the chassis will sag and won't be perfectly straight. Perhaps it is better to do this 'heat treatment' at a lower temperature but do it multiple times. Also, you need to have a way of slowly cooling it back to room temperature, if a part of the chassis cools faster than the other, your back to having a warped chassis!
#727
Tech Regular
Received my Pro II kit yesterday, ordered from rcmarket. Box was wrapped in bubble wrap and brown paper, not box-in-box, but it arrived safely. I ordered the seventh and it was in back order then. Pretty quick to get here. I did pay € 25,39 in taxes and handling, but that was to be expected.
Hugo
Hugo
#728
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Received my Pro II kit yesterday, ordered from rcmarket. Box was wrapped in bubble wrap and brown paper, not box-in-box, but it arrived safely. I ordered the seventh and it was in back order then. Pretty quick to get here. I did pay € 25,39 in taxes and handling, but that was to be expected.
Hugo
Hugo
#729
Tech Regular
Oh, I am nowhere near building, yet. I have put the Hop ups on my Birthday wish list, together with necessities like a body, some tires, motor and ESC, etc. So somewhere in October I might get some of those, I will save money to buy the rest myself. I have bought the car for next year Tamiya Cup Euro Touring Car class, this year I stick with my old TT-01 in the Pro Stock class.
Cheers,
Hugo
Cheers,
Hugo
#730
Are there any tips to building and shimming the drivetrain? I built per instructions and it does not feel free compared to my TB03.
thanks
thanks
#733
Tech Master
#735
Tech Master