Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree11Likes

Tamiya TB04 Pro

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-11-2014, 07:28 PM
  #721  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
Cadman1981's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 551
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Thanks TB03Racer09, and cool car btw!

Do you plan on getting the TRF418 swaybars? (TAM 42281)
Cadman1981 is offline  
Old 07-11-2014, 08:15 PM
  #722  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
TB03Racer09's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 427
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Cadman1981
Thanks TB03Racer09, and cool car btw!

Do you plan on getting the TRF418 swaybars? (TAM 42281)
Thanks!

The sway bars are on my possible upgrades list, though I usually keep my cars close to stock. Money saved on hop ups goes towards the next TRF

Possible Upgrades List
-Aluminium Pilot Shafts Set
-Aluminium Transmission Shafts Set
-Titanium Screw Set
-TRF418 Sway Bar Set
-Double Cardan Front CVD Shafts

Last edited by TB03Racer09; 07-11-2014 at 08:41 PM.
TB03Racer09 is offline  
Old 07-11-2014, 09:09 PM
  #723  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 167
Default

Originally Posted by TB03Racer09
spyder_696, hobbywing recommends a fdr of 5-6.5 with your exact setup, 6.6 should run cool then. You could try a 23t or 24t pinion but I think you should try take a 5 minute break every 12 minutes running, its good for your electronics. I've found the weather can also heavily impact temperature.

High temperatures can also be caused by drag in the drivetrain which is caused by: pinion and spur too close together, poorly shimmed diffs/bevel gear/milter gears, any significant amount of binding anywhere. Your spur rubbing on the motor is a contributing factor to the heat, as it is introducing more drag into the drivetrain.

Try this. loosen the set screw on the pinion, turn the spur by hand. If there is a lot of resistance, your mesh is to tight. Then remove the pinion all together, push the car on the floor. Listen for any clicking, ticking or any form of binding.


Cadman1981, If you want an fdr under 3.5, you will need to lower the internal drive ration with larger bevel gear and/or smaller ring gears (like the 39t). See what fdr people are running at your track for those 2 classes and aim for that
Thanks for your help. Will try.
spyder_696 is offline  
Old 07-11-2014, 09:45 PM
  #724  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
 
CraigMBA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Valley of the Dirt, CA
Posts: 2,838
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by JimmyMac
Warped chassis sounds like my TA05 chassis. I just compensated with different shock lengths at each corner. Then carefully setting spring preload and droop. It was good enough to win a few TCS races in the past. I'm sure you can work with it on this car.
It's not warped as in tweaked, warped as in warped. It's pointed up on the ends and down in the middle. If you checked the droop on the front and rear of the same a arm, it measured .3-.5mm different front to rear. Mine had tweak too, but I could live with that. Had I known it was warped before I ran it I could of lived with that too.

By comparison, the tb03 is perfectly straight. So is my evo6 and my 417.
CraigMBA is offline  
Old 07-11-2014, 10:58 PM
  #725  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
JimmyMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: NC
Posts: 4,447
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by CraigMBA
It's not warped as in tweaked, warped as in warped. It's pointed up on the ends and down in the middle. If you checked the droop on the front and rear of the same a arm, it measured .3-.5mm different front to rear. Mine had tweak too, but I could live with that. Had I known it was warped before I ran it I could of lived with that too.

By comparison, the tb03 is perfectly straight. So is my evo6 and my 417.
Yuck! Not cool. Maybe some suspension shims to even it all out. But that's a lot of work to get it even left to right and front front to front rear and rear rear to rear front. I wonder how much heat it would take to heat it up and re-tweak it.
JimmyMac is offline  
Old 07-11-2014, 11:37 PM
  #726  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
TB03Racer09's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 427
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

If your going to reheat the chassis to straighten it up, you will have to have the chassis on a perfectly flat surface that is level. You also can't heat it up too much because vertical pieces of the chassis will sag and won't be perfectly straight. Perhaps it is better to do this 'heat treatment' at a lower temperature but do it multiple times. Also, you need to have a way of slowly cooling it back to room temperature, if a part of the chassis cools faster than the other, your back to having a warped chassis!
TB03Racer09 is offline  
Old 07-13-2014, 12:34 AM
  #727  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: the Netherlands
Posts: 328
Default

Received my Pro II kit yesterday, ordered from rcmarket. Box was wrapped in bubble wrap and brown paper, not box-in-box, but it arrived safely. I ordered the seventh and it was in back order then. Pretty quick to get here. I did pay € 25,39 in taxes and handling, but that was to be expected.

Hugo
HugoW is offline  
Old 07-13-2014, 01:12 AM
  #728  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
TB03Racer09's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 427
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by HugoW
Received my Pro II kit yesterday, ordered from rcmarket. Box was wrapped in bubble wrap and brown paper, not box-in-box, but it arrived safely. I ordered the seventh and it was in back order then. Pretty quick to get here. I did pay € 25,39 in taxes and handling, but that was to be expected.

Hugo
awesome, make sure you build the drivetrain slowly, do it right the first time
TB03Racer09 is offline  
Old 07-14-2014, 01:43 AM
  #729  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: the Netherlands
Posts: 328
Default

Oh, I am nowhere near building, yet. I have put the Hop ups on my Birthday wish list, together with necessities like a body, some tires, motor and ESC, etc. So somewhere in October I might get some of those, I will save money to buy the rest myself. I have bought the car for next year Tamiya Cup Euro Touring Car class, this year I stick with my old TT-01 in the Pro Stock class.

Cheers,

Hugo
HugoW is offline  
Old 07-14-2014, 03:32 AM
  #730  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
Racing4Evo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,118
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Are there any tips to building and shimming the drivetrain? I built per instructions and it does not feel free compared to my TB03.

thanks
Racing4Evo is offline  
Old 07-14-2014, 08:40 AM
  #731  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
 
CraigMBA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Valley of the Dirt, CA
Posts: 2,838
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Racing4Evo
Are there any tips to building and shimming the drivetrain? I built per instructions and it does not feel free compared to my TB03.

thanks
Run a pack through it and reshim it, get all the lash out of it you can.
CraigMBA is offline  
Old 07-14-2014, 09:02 AM
  #732  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
Cadman1981's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 551
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Which swaybars work with the car? I've read TA06, but the tb04 v2 suspension is all TRF418, so i'm assuming TAM 42281 - TRF418 swaybar kit

Last edited by Cadman1981; 07-14-2014 at 11:04 AM.
Cadman1981 is offline  
Old 07-14-2014, 10:21 AM
  #733  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: santa monica / manchester
Posts: 1,426
Default

Originally Posted by Cadman1981
Which swaybars work with the car? I've read TA06, but the suspensions is all TRF418, so i'm assuming TAM 42281
If you have the 418 suspension, you need the 418 bars as the others are too long, and the fittings will also not be correct.
Qatmix is offline  
Old 07-14-2014, 10:40 AM
  #734  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (94)
 
Raman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 5,350
Trader Rating: 94 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Qatmix
If you have the 418 suspension, you need the 418 bars as the others are too long, and the fittings will also not be correct.
Tamiya should correct that then.. They're referencing the TA06 sway bars as the option part for the TB04 Pro II
Raman is offline  
Old 07-14-2014, 12:43 PM
  #735  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: santa monica / manchester
Posts: 1,426
Default

Originally Posted by Raman
Tamiya should correct that then.. They're referencing the TA06 sway bars as the option part for the TB04 Pro II
The TB04 pro V2 Manual states the TRF418 set (42281), you will also need the 53827 (stabiliser rod stoppers)
Qatmix is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.