Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Tamiya F104 Version 2 >

Tamiya F104 Version 2

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree2Likes

Tamiya F104 Version 2

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-18-2012, 09:18 AM
  #451  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Montréal, Qc
Posts: 403
Default

Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX

When using Alu upright, run spacers on top, never on bottom
Adjust droop with screw, and shims on lower A-arm

What would be the advantage of running like that in place of putting shims under the upright?

Martin Paradis
rhodopsine is offline  
Old 09-18-2012, 09:47 AM
  #452  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 98
Default

Ok need some help. V2 will pull hard in the rear from one side to the other. Very unpredictable. Medium traction carpet.
Huskerfan1212 is offline  
Old 09-18-2012, 10:02 AM
  #453  
R/C Tech Elite Member
 
JayL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ca
Posts: 3,111
Default

RedBullFiXX: thanks for the tips, I finished 3rd in this weeks series race thanks to your tuning tips, I was 12th last race

I went to pink side springs and got alot more corner entry, now the car wants to keep turning on exit, slightly stiffer side spring? In touring I would go little thicker rear gear diff fluid

Are the AE black side springs softer OR stiffer than Tamiya pink side springs?
JayL is offline  
Old 09-18-2012, 11:42 AM
  #454  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: East Bay, CA
Posts: 87
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Jay, I was running my X1 this past weekend, but will probably go back to the V. 2.0 for Ripon. I think I had everyone on the motor department this past weekend and was visibly faster than everyone on the straights, but I was having a little inconsistency with the handling on the X1, or maybe I was hitting that bump consistently at end of the straight that it would just kick the rear of the car out every time.

If there's time, I'd like for you to drive my V2 so I can get some opinions on overall handling--will probably go back to the Cirtix 21.5 so I can have some drag brakes back on the car--I was running silver can the past two races.

--Rene
TwoWheel is offline  
Old 09-18-2012, 11:43 AM
  #455  
Tech Master
 
DerekB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,421
Default

Hopefully all the F104v2 and F1 fans in general have checked out the latest issue of Velocity RC Magazine. F104v2 on the cover, 10 page review, and an F1/Tamiya history article!

http://vrcmag.com/current-issue/
DerekB is offline  
Old 09-18-2012, 01:55 PM
  #456  
R/C Tech Elite Member
 
JayL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ca
Posts: 3,111
Default

Originally Posted by TwoWheel
Jay, I was running my X1 this past weekend, but will probably go back to the V. 2.0 for Ripon. I think I had everyone on the motor department this past weekend and was visibly faster than everyone on the straights, but I was having a little inconsistency with the handling on the X1, or maybe I was hitting that bump consistently at end of the straight that it would just kick the rear of the car out every time.

If there's time, I'd like for you to drive my V2 so I can get some opinions on overall handling--will probably go back to the Cirtix 21.5 so I can have some drag brakes back on the car--I was running silver can the past two races.

--Rene
Ah, now I know your screename/face I would be happy to try your car.
I have been trying all sorts of things. I switched from an X1 to the V.2 as well.
I did not run any drag brake at Speedworld
JayL is offline  
Old 09-18-2012, 03:07 PM
  #457  
dfx
Tech Adept
 
dfx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Europe
Posts: 131
Default

How are You building the TRF shock for use in V2? I have 1 black o-ring on the shaft in shock used in my Pro wide car (I believe stock setup for X1 and WGP cars), is it still long for V2 and outdoor unprep. large track?
Thanks
dfx is offline  
Old 09-18-2012, 03:23 PM
  #458  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
 
robk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Macho Business Donkey Wrestler
Posts: 8,201
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Huskerfan1212
Ok need some help. V2 will pull hard in the rear from one side to the other. Very unpredictable. Medium traction carpet.
Side springs? Tires? We need more information on what you have right now- run down your setup
robk is offline  
Old 09-18-2012, 06:29 PM
  #459  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 98
Default

Pink side springs. Tcs tires. Black spring. 900. 400 For the other. I hope to tweak it a bit better tomorrow and see if that helps. Pretty much set up with the tq set up.
Huskerfan1212 is offline  
Old 09-18-2012, 06:48 PM
  #460  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,596
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

F104v2 still fast enough to beat 200mm cars. But of course, if the driver used 200mm he would probably go even faster.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
rccartips is offline  
Old 09-18-2012, 08:14 PM
  #461  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: invercargill,new zealand
Posts: 30
Default

hey i have a question is it possible to tilt my servo(standard servo) back to remove the bumpsteer is there enough room??any ideas ??thanks
tamiya-2012nz is offline  
Old 09-18-2012, 09:51 PM
  #462  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
 
robk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Macho Business Donkey Wrestler
Posts: 8,201
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Huskerfan1212
Pink side springs. Tcs tires. Black spring. 900. 400 For the other. I hope to tweak it a bit better tomorrow and see if that helps. Pretty much set up with the tq set up.
Try silver side springs.
robk is offline  
Old 09-18-2012, 09:52 PM
  #463  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
 
robk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Macho Business Donkey Wrestler
Posts: 8,201
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tamiya-2012nz
hey i have a question is it possible to tilt my servo(standard servo) back to remove the bumpsteer is there enough room??any ideas ??thanks
You will probably need to space the links down even if you tilt the servo
robk is offline  
Old 09-19-2012, 02:45 AM
  #464  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,542
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Apex
So is the F104 ver. II Tamiya F1 kit the kit to have for asphalt and carpet? I have an X1 that tq'ed and won the Frederick, MD TCS race this year. Do I need to unload the X1 or will the X1 still be competitive?
The X1 can still be competitive, as it narrowly edged out a VII at TCS Nats this year, personally, I haven't run my t-bar car much since the VII came out, as I like the extra fine tuning available with the VII
Originally Posted by rhodopsine
What would be the advantage of running like that in place of putting shims under the upright?

Martin Paradis
Shim on top are there to adjust ride height, shims on the bottom really have no purpose
With the alu uprights, the grub screw sets and holds the kingpin, there is no need for shims under the upright, and in the case of a big shunt, having shims under the upright have caused the lower pivot ball to pop out
Originally Posted by Huskerfan1212
Ok need some help. V2 will pull hard in the rear from one side to the other. Very unpredictable. Medium traction carpet.
Have a look at this video from RobK about link setup, it's possible something is bound up on your car
What tire sauce are you using ?
Start with half sauce up front, full rear, add sauce up front as needed for steering, too much sauce, or letting the sauce soak too long could cause the car to be very unpredictable
I normally sauce the tires for 10m or less
Also can you post some pics ?
www.rctech.net/forum/11009668-post240.html
Originally Posted by JayL
RedBullFiXX: thanks for the tips, I finished 3rd in this weeks series race thanks to your tuning tips, I was 12th last race

I went to pink side springs and got alot more corner entry, now the car wants to keep turning on exit, slightly stiffer side spring? In touring I would go little thicker rear gear diff fluid

Are the AE black side springs softer OR stiffer than Tamiya pink side springs?
grats
Loose on power, or just doesn't center up after the apex ?
Might need 1 turn down on pink side springs for a bit more pre-load, if the springs are backed off too much the car will wander a bit
Heavier side damping can help, 20-30k, but too heavy and the rear will become vague, and loose grip
Originally Posted by dfx
How are You building the TRF shock for use in V2? I have 1 black o-ring on the shaft in shock used in my Pro wide car (I believe stock setup for X1 and WGP cars), is it still long for V2 and outdoor unprep. large track?
Thanks
Will have to double check
But I think 2 o-rings in normal X-1 length, or 1 oring with rally Shock end for longer Vii length TRF shock

When setting up a new shock length I leave the oil out until I have everything set how it should be

Last edited by RedBullFiXX; 09-20-2012 at 03:19 AM.
RedBullFiXX is offline  
Old 09-19-2012, 09:47 AM
  #465  
R/C Tech Elite Member
 
JayL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ca
Posts: 3,111
Default

Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX
grats
Loose on power, or just doesn't center up after the apex ?
Might need 1 turn down on pink side springs for a bit more pre-load, if the springs are backed off too much the car will wander a bit
Heavier side damping can help, 20-30k, but too heavy and the rear will become vague, and loose grip
Doesn't center up. I set the spring to just touch, like I usually do in 1/12.
I was thinking more/some preload as well
JayL is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.