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Old 01-28-2014, 05:13 PM
  #13501  
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I made my own chassis so scratch that and all associated parts off the list. I'm probably not touching the shocks so scratch that. I despise cab forward bodies so scratch that. I may play with the arms but not convinced I need to. The only thing I see that I definitely want is the gear case.
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Old 01-28-2014, 05:38 PM
  #13502  
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Originally Posted by flame56mx
Where are you getting the specs?
Parts are listed on Tower http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...2+++&search=Go
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Old 01-28-2014, 05:41 PM
  #13503  
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Originally Posted by ekt
Ok, whizzed through that page too fast, must need pictures I guess..lol
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Old 01-28-2014, 05:51 PM
  #13504  
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Arms for me and that's it. Hello V2!
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Old 01-28-2014, 06:13 PM
  #13505  
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i will probably buy the revised rear shock tower and a-arms... i have had no issues with my gearbox
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Old 01-29-2014, 02:25 PM
  #13506  
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Pics of the v2 from the 2014 Toyfair can be found here http://www.area52.cc/news/4593-toyfa...m-durango.html
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Old 01-29-2014, 02:53 PM
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Team durango dex210 my tires are wearing on the inside not on thr outside could this be from toed out or need more negative camber. Im racing on carpet with mid motor which rear suspension blocks should I try
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Old 01-29-2014, 03:14 PM
  #13508  
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Originally Posted by ekt
Pics of the v2 from the 2014 Toyfair can be found here http://www.area52.cc/news/4593-toyfa...m-durango.html
I want to see underneef it..
Originally Posted by poston
Team durango dex210 my tires are wearing on the inside not on thr outside could this be from toed out or need more negative camber. Im racing on carpet with mid motor which rear suspension blocks should I try
Hard to say w/o seeing the car, but more than likely too much camber. As far as suspension blocks go,there is no "universal best", its more of a try and feel thing for you at your track. Without knowing what the car is doing right or wrong, or where more is needed it tough for us to tell you what to try. Let us know what you want out of your car, and maybe even what blocks you are using etc and we should be able to dial it in a little better..
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Old 01-29-2014, 04:29 PM
  #13509  
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Durango Hex Mod
I didn't like using the threadlock method. Aftermarket clamps are great, but I thought maybe a DYI mod would do the trick.

Thought I might share it with you guys. You just need part #704046








Test to make sure the screw sits flush in the hex or the wheel can't fit on.
You need to shorten the pin slightly so that the screws can clamp onto the hex and not protrude out. If you can't put the wheel on, either the pin is too long or the holes for the counter sink is not deep enough.




Trim any flashing so that the pin can slide in easily.




Last edited by Dino_D; 01-29-2014 at 04:44 PM.
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Old 01-29-2014, 04:31 PM
  #13510  
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Originally Posted by Dino_D
Durango Hex Mod

very cool..I like the transparent links also.
Sorry Dino, was just giving you a hard time..nice work, i was thinking of doing a similar mod to my alumi hexes but lost interest (lazy) way through the first one, and used a drop of CA instead..lol

Last edited by flame56mx; 01-30-2014 at 04:20 AM.
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Old 01-29-2014, 04:45 PM
  #13511  
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Originally Posted by flame56mx
very cool..I like the transparent links also..
Sorry I was trying to figure out why the links didn't post. Its up now.
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Old 01-29-2014, 11:02 PM
  #13512  
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Originally Posted by Dino_D
Durango Hex Mod
I didn't like using the threadlock method. Aftermarket clamps are great, but I thought maybe a DYI mod would do the trick.

Thought I might share it with you guys. You just need part #704046








Test to make sure the screw sits flush in the hex or the wheel can't fit on.
You need to shorten the pin slightly so that the screws can clamp onto the hex and not protrude out. If you can't put the wheel on, either the pin is too long or the holes for the counter sink is not deep enough.




Trim any flashing so that the pin can slide in easily.



A simpler easier fix is use a spot of thread lock on the pin. That's what I did when I got tired of the pin falling out b4 I got clamping hubs. Now I run 12mm hexes so I can use the lighter AKA universal wheel. B4 that I switched the front to truck hubs using cut TC axles and 12mm hexes to use the universal fronts. Mostly cause I hated taking bearings out to clean tires.
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Old 01-30-2014, 02:05 AM
  #13513  
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Originally Posted by Mopar
A simpler easier fix is use a spot of thread lock on the pin. That's what I did when I got tired of the pin falling out b4 I got clamping hubs. Now I run 12mm hexes so I can use the lighter AKA universal wheel. B4 that I switched the front to truck hubs using cut TC axles and 12mm hexes to use the universal fronts. Mostly cause I hated taking bearings out to clean tires.
I use a thick teflon grease on the pin. Works for me.
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Old 01-30-2014, 06:07 AM
  #13514  
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Pictures of the new V2.
http://www.area52.cc/news/4593-toyfa...m-durango.html
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Old 01-30-2014, 07:06 AM
  #13515  
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These race-winning features are now standard equipment:
■ 8 mm-longer hard-anodized aluminum chassis for more straight-line stability and better post-jump recovery
■ New, straight front arms for more ground clearance and better aerodynamics
■ New, interchangeable rear arms for front or rear shock mounting options
■ Redesigned rear chassis brace for easier access to gearbox and power system
■ New side pods provide more mounting space for electronics and better dirt and water protection
■ New front shock tower design and material for faster,
easier access to camber links and superior crash resistance ■ Improved, low-profile rear shock tower for better post-jump
handling and more shock tuning options
■ New v2 cab-forward body for greater downforce and
straight-line stability
■ More shock piston choices, including blank pistons for
custom setups
■ Updated DIMEC X ball cups for better crash resistance and
faster adjustment
■ -2 mm rear low roll-center suspension hanger for improved
(forward) traction and smoother cornering on low-grip tracks ■ All Team Durango Type “B” upgrades
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