137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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03-02-2014, 10:32 PM
#4876
Mandatory silver edition pics. Ran it twice yesterday seemed really good just had wrong tires.
03-02-2014, 10:39 PM
#4877
03-02-2014, 10:41 PM
#4878
03-02-2014, 10:47 PM
#4879
Tech Regular
Think I might have to say goodbye to my 22 and hello to one of these
03-02-2014, 10:52 PM
#4880
03-02-2014, 10:58 PM
#4881
03-03-2014, 12:03 AM
#4882
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Yes.
The HD ball ends are so tight that they want to pop off whenever you make adjustments. My experience was that even after greasing them as the book says, that they are too tight. As others have suggested, ream them out with a 7/64 drill bit and open the ends a bit with a body reamer before greasing and screwing in the turnbuckle. Make sure you use tape or something on the drill bit to ensure you don't go too far in.
The slipper spring needs to be compressed with pliers or you will bark the diff right from the get go.
If you're going to do 2mm of trailing axle, as many setups have, you will need to purchase some shorter (6mm vs 12mm) hd ball studs for your steering rack. The longer ones bind up in the steering box if you run with no washers, as is the case when you fix ackerman by running zero washers after moving the caster blocks back after moving the wheels forward when moving to 2mm trailing axle.
Make sure you run your transponder and servo wires flat next to each other under the sticky battery pad or it will make your battery rock back and fourth.
The HD ball ends are so tight that they want to pop off whenever you make adjustments. My experience was that even after greasing them as the book says, that they are too tight. As others have suggested, ream them out with a 7/64 drill bit and open the ends a bit with a body reamer before greasing and screwing in the turnbuckle. Make sure you use tape or something on the drill bit to ensure you don't go too far in.
The slipper spring needs to be compressed with pliers or you will bark the diff right from the get go.
If you're going to do 2mm of trailing axle, as many setups have, you will need to purchase some shorter (6mm vs 12mm) hd ball studs for your steering rack. The longer ones bind up in the steering box if you run with no washers, as is the case when you fix ackerman by running zero washers after moving the caster blocks back after moving the wheels forward when moving to 2mm trailing axle.
Make sure you run your transponder and servo wires flat next to each other under the sticky battery pad or it will make your battery rock back and fourth.
03-03-2014, 12:16 AM
#4883
TY Anthony
03-03-2014, 12:26 AM
#4884
I ended up using the shocks off my B4.2 built with CSI blue pistons. I also pulled off my aluminum rear axle hexes from the B4.2 and used them. I ran stock today at OCRC, the last race on the reedy track. For the most part I used Kody's setup but went with 32.5 front and 27.5 in the rear along with green springs up front and white in the rear. I also used a Titanium link kit and aluminum screws replacing the stock ones in about 90% throughout.
I ran a hobbywing 3.1 with a Reedy 17.5t in the stock class. I missed the first heat due to not having the car done, finished the car and ran in the 2nd heat. It ran good, but I needed to shift my battery forward. I started in the rear of the Bmain and ended up finishing first and bumping to the Amain. At the start of the Amain the screw came out of the right front axle. Needless to say the lock tight wasn't dry.
Here is a middle of build picture, I'll try to get a finished pic up soon.
Servo Note: I'm using a shorty servo, in order to get it fit with the wire coming out I cut off the plastic/rubber boot that hold the wire and protrudes out the side around the actual wire. I was then able to fit it in, albeit tightly.
Overall the build was very impressive, and the car handles and feels even more so!
I ran a hobbywing 3.1 with a Reedy 17.5t in the stock class. I missed the first heat due to not having the car done, finished the car and ran in the 2nd heat. It ran good, but I needed to shift my battery forward. I started in the rear of the Bmain and ended up finishing first and bumping to the Amain. At the start of the Amain the screw came out of the right front axle. Needless to say the lock tight wasn't dry.
Here is a middle of build picture, I'll try to get a finished pic up soon.
Servo Note: I'm using a shorty servo, in order to get it fit with the wire coming out I cut off the plastic/rubber boot that hold the wire and protrudes out the side around the actual wire. I was then able to fit it in, albeit tightly.
Overall the build was very impressive, and the car handles and feels even more so!
03-03-2014, 12:40 AM
#4885
Tech Initiate
Honestly though, if you do not have a lot of experience putting kits together I would shy away from Razathorn's advice on drilling the ball ends. He is a very advanced driver, builder, tuner and if you arent, this could lead to ruining parts that are difficult to replace. I have been building kits since the 80's and I still refuse to do this to my ball ends and only used grease for the first time with the B5 due to them being so tight. Razathorn is extremely qualified for all advice, but I think this might cause a new builder some grief. And if I remember right, Raz, didnt you ruin your first set doing this?? lol
I was the initial one to say the ball cups were tight and I was flamed for three pages afterward. The simple fact is, like some other parts on the car such as a arms, they are tight when new and work themselves in to perfection. The best way, really, unless you have extensive experience (which probably includes ruining a few ball ends in the past), is to work them in and out a few times with the grease by hand. I have a turnbuckle on the front I had to replace after suffering an attack from a short course truck. After unscrewing the turnbuckle, the new one went in with new grease very nicely. I would also avoid the advice to put the turnbuckle in a drill and run it in and out. This too has a high potential for part ruin. If you could run out to the local hobby shop and get new ones I wouldnt say anything, but tread lightly on the parts you cant replace yet.
The kit is really a great build. Follow the instructions and it will be a blast. And thanks to Razathorn as well, hope no offense is taken, just thought he sounded rather new to building.
Oh, and +1 on the extra shorter ball studs for the steering assembly. This is probably the best advice for the car right out of the box for better steering.
Last edited by BHammer002; 03-03-2014 at 01:00 AM.
03-03-2014, 01:52 AM
#4886
Tech Adept
Thanks for replies re wheels/ESC space dimensions, appreciate it.
03-03-2014, 02:51 AM
#4887
I ended up using the shocks off my B4.2 built with CSI blue pistons. I also pulled off my aluminum rear axle hexes from the B4.2 and used them. I ran stock today at OCRC, the last race on the reedy track. For the most part I used Kody's setup but went with 32.5 front and 27.5 in the rear along with green springs up front and white in the rear. I also used a Titanium link kit and aluminum screws replacing the stock ones in about 90% throughout.
I ran a hobbywing 3.1 with a Reedy 17.5t in the stock class. I missed the first heat due to not having the car done, finished the car and ran in the 2nd heat. It ran good, but I needed to shift my battery forward. I started in the rear of the Bmain and ended up finishing first and bumping to the Amain. At the start of the Amain the screw came out of the right front axle. Needless to say the lock tight wasn't dry.
Here is a middle of build picture, I'll try to get a finished pic up soon.
Servo Note: I'm using a shorty servo, in order to get it fit with the wire coming out I cut off the plastic/rubber boot that hold the wire and protrudes out the side around the actual wire. I was then able to fit it in, albeit tightly.
Overall the build was very impressive, and the car handles and feels even more so!
I ran a hobbywing 3.1 with a Reedy 17.5t in the stock class. I missed the first heat due to not having the car done, finished the car and ran in the 2nd heat. It ran good, but I needed to shift my battery forward. I started in the rear of the Bmain and ended up finishing first and bumping to the Amain. At the start of the Amain the screw came out of the right front axle. Needless to say the lock tight wasn't dry.
Here is a middle of build picture, I'll try to get a finished pic up soon.
Servo Note: I'm using a shorty servo, in order to get it fit with the wire coming out I cut off the plastic/rubber boot that hold the wire and protrudes out the side around the actual wire. I was then able to fit it in, albeit tightly.
Overall the build was very impressive, and the car handles and feels even more so!
03-03-2014, 05:00 AM
#4890
Nice! I broke a bulkhead, and have replaced it with the stock plastic for now. Please let us know the fit of this part, as well as any impact on handling/jumping attitude based on the extra weight. Thanks!