Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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Brass
I pretty much only run stock. My home track is outdoors. In the winter when we run the track wet its near freezing on race nights. Traction is really low. Not only do I run the brass C & D blocks, I also run a square pack to add weight. We're back to dry blue groove and its been freakishly warm so its back to a light car.
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
I ordered some yeah racing tornado 25mm fans. I have seen some pretty good reviews on them and go-nitro had a good price.
Last edited by Wildcat1971; 02-16-2015 at 05:29 PM.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
I did some searching and reading after asking about the inline setup earlier. I think my track is probably one of the best fits for an inline battery that you will find so I decided to go for it this afternoon. Here's what I ended up with.
I really like how much it cleaned up the wiring. I could have shoehorned everything in there without cutting all three cross braces but I wanted some room between the battery and the ESC/servo so I hacked them all.
I notched my stock battery hold-down to clear the bullet connectors. That should get me through the race this weekend but I plan to find a CF brace that fits better.
I really like how much it cleaned up the wiring. I could have shoehorned everything in there without cutting all three cross braces but I wanted some room between the battery and the ESC/servo so I hacked them all.
I notched my stock battery hold-down to clear the bullet connectors. That should get me through the race this weekend but I plan to find a CF brace that fits better.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
I have a suggestion for page one. When I got my swaybar kit I tried searching for how to install it before I opened the package. It was hard to find anything. Once I opened the package it was easy to figure out but it could be helpful to have a note about it. Below are pictures from couple different angles. If they aren't clear enough I can get out the real camera instead of using my iPhone.
What gearing are you guys running that needs a fan on the motor?
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Tech Champion
iTrader: (7)
69/32 for 13.5 and 69/34 for 17.5
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
I dont run a fan because I "need", I run a fan because it is insurance. Less power fade with a cooler motor and longer motor life. I gear my motors for about 150 without a fan, then add a fan to drop temps to 125. this way if my fan fails, I wont fry the motor. last weekend my fan failed and I came off at 150.
Also, we run 5 minute quals and 8-10 minute mains. 150 over 5 minutes becomes 170+ over 8 minutes. Most everyone here is running fans in 17.5. I would not bother in mod.
Also, we run 5 minute quals and 8-10 minute mains. 150 over 5 minutes becomes 170+ over 8 minutes. Most everyone here is running fans in 17.5. I would not bother in mod.
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
for anyone running on high bite wet clay using slicks, what is your thoughts on foams.
Here is what I have noticed.
- Proline seem to be good right out of the box, but fade quickly
- AKA reds, need about 2 packs out of the box and then are done after 4-6 weeks.
- JC Grey foams? I have not tried these yet
- Panther orange....like bricks and never seem to break in. Thus the car is sketchy as all get out.
I have been using 2.4 wheels for the most part and there is not much sidewall to refoam, and the rip soon after the foams are done anyway. It would be nice to have a foam that breaks in quickly and holds performance longer. Chances are, I am getting to budget minded, and just need to bite the bullet and replace my tires/foams every 20-30 packs.
going back to 2.2 wheels and tires and refoaming would probably be the most cost effect solution. thoughts?
Here is what I have noticed.
- Proline seem to be good right out of the box, but fade quickly
- AKA reds, need about 2 packs out of the box and then are done after 4-6 weeks.
- JC Grey foams? I have not tried these yet
- Panther orange....like bricks and never seem to break in. Thus the car is sketchy as all get out.
I have been using 2.4 wheels for the most part and there is not much sidewall to refoam, and the rip soon after the foams are done anyway. It would be nice to have a foam that breaks in quickly and holds performance longer. Chances are, I am getting to budget minded, and just need to bite the bullet and replace my tires/foams every 20-30 packs.
going back to 2.2 wheels and tires and refoaming would probably be the most cost effect solution. thoughts?
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
I dont run a fan because I "need", I run a fan because it is insurance. Less power fade with a cooler motor and longer motor life. I gear my motors for about 150 without a fan, then add a fan to drop temps to 125. this way if my fan fails, I wont fry the motor. last weekend my fan failed and I came off at 150.
Also, we run 5 minute quals and 8-10 minute mains. 150 over 5 minutes becomes 170+ over 8 minutes. Most everyone here is running fans in 17.5. I would not bother in mod.
Also, we run 5 minute quals and 8-10 minute mains. 150 over 5 minutes becomes 170+ over 8 minutes. Most everyone here is running fans in 17.5. I would not bother in mod.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
I have the same track conditions and everybody runs Panther slicks, we ditch the Orange foams and install aka red soft foams. Seems to be the hot ticket.
I was watching a Tekin video the other day and Randy Pike was selling their ESC data logging features by talking about a case where someones fan was dragging down their battery voltage to the point where it was having an impact on performance. Might be worthwhile to understand what kind of load your "insurance" is creating on your battery in such a competitive class. Especially if your fan is always on while you're lining up to start and such.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
Without that capability, I might try checking my voltage at the battery before turning on the fan then turn on just the fan for 60 seconds and check it again. That should give an idea of how much the fan is dropping your voltage on its own. It shouldn't be too hard to wire a multi meter inline to measure amperage draw from the fan as well.
I would be willing to bet some of you guys are losing way more performance with those fans than you would gain by dropping a full ounce of weight.