Trinity kill shot motors
04-25-2013, 09:13 AM
#31
How do the dyno results compare with the D3.5?
04-25-2013, 09:14 AM
#32
Ok-- so who has them I stock?
What is the preferred version for:
17.5 touring----- rpm or torque
12th stock--- rpm?
burn it up at 60'.....????????
or perfect at 45'(with more ----gear---- or 52' with a tooth less..............)
Where do you start --- when you can get one!
I like the theory---- give them everything..... but entry , testing costs could escalate rapidly!
D
What is the preferred version for:
17.5 touring----- rpm or torque
12th stock--- rpm?
burn it up at 60'.....????????
or perfect at 45'(with more ----gear---- or 52' with a tooth less..............)
Where do you start --- when you can get one!
I like the theory---- give them everything..... but entry , testing costs could escalate rapidly!
D
What is the preferred version for 17.5 touring?
We race blinky. In blinky torque and the ability to turn big gears = speed so I would get the torque version first.
burn it up at 60'????????
No. Everyone that races should know that past Revtech's and D3.5's had 30 deg timing built in. This meant that 0deg = 30deg and the 20deg that most of us ran really was 50deg. I would start my Kill Shot (torque) 17.5 at 40deg and gear it just like any other Trinity 17.5 in a sedan, somewhere around 3.3-3.8 FDR (for big open tracks to tight tracks).
Run 2 min, temp your motor, if all is well crank the timing to 45-50 deg, run 2 min, temp your motor, if all is well start altering your final drive ratio. The best final drive is highest numerical ratio that gives you the best lap times. Also, don't look at single fastest lap. Thats meaningless, everyone gets lucky once in a while. Look at your best 20 laps.
Where do you start --- when you can get one!
If you are going to the Nats the best place will be the track side shop. I am sure they will have a ton. After the Nats they will be everywhere
I like the theory---- give them everything..... but entry , testing costs could escalate rapidly!
drsfly, I am not directing this at you, i'm just saying...
No one ever said r/c racing was a cheap hobby. I don't mean to be rude but if people can't swing buying motors and testing maybe they should be focusing on more critical things in their lives.
Last edited by AdrianM; 04-25-2013 at 12:41 PM.
04-25-2013, 09:17 AM
#33
I havent had a chance to run any yet but on the dyno they look very good.
The stators are different on the Torque and RPM versions but its not the length. Both stators are the same length. Resistance on the gwinstek meter was low 22's to high 21's.
On the dyno at 55 degrees of timing (According to the endbell) the RPM version pulls a little more amp draw (.2-.5amp), has a little more rpm (500), and is about 2 watts higher on each step than the torque version. The Torque version doesnt have as big of a spread top RPM to full load (as it shouldnt because it has more torque).
The RPM version looks like a D3.5 with standard rotor on the dyno and the Torque version looks like a d3.5 with a 12.5 HT rotor on the dyno....with lower amp draw.
EA
The stators are different on the Torque and RPM versions but its not the length. Both stators are the same length. Resistance on the gwinstek meter was low 22's to high 21's.
On the dyno at 55 degrees of timing (According to the endbell) the RPM version pulls a little more amp draw (.2-.5amp), has a little more rpm (500), and is about 2 watts higher on each step than the torque version. The Torque version doesnt have as big of a spread top RPM to full load (as it shouldnt because it has more torque).
The RPM version looks like a D3.5 with standard rotor on the dyno and the Torque version looks like a d3.5 with a 12.5 HT rotor on the dyno....with lower amp draw.
EA
04-25-2013, 12:24 PM
#35
I havent had a chance to run any yet but on the dyno they look very good.
The stators are different on the Torque and RPM versions but its not the length. Both stators are the same length. Resistance on the gwinstek meter was low 22's to high 21's.
On the dyno at 55 degrees of timing (According to the endbell) the RPM version pulls a little more amp draw (.2-.5amp), has a little more rpm (500), and is about 2 watts higher on each step than the torque version. The Torque version doesnt have as big of a spread top RPM to full load (as it shouldnt because it has more torque).
The RPM version looks like a D3.5 with standard rotor on the dyno and the Torque version looks like a d3.5 with a 12.5 HT rotor on the dyno....with lower amp draw.
EA
The stators are different on the Torque and RPM versions but its not the length. Both stators are the same length. Resistance on the gwinstek meter was low 22's to high 21's.
On the dyno at 55 degrees of timing (According to the endbell) the RPM version pulls a little more amp draw (.2-.5amp), has a little more rpm (500), and is about 2 watts higher on each step than the torque version. The Torque version doesnt have as big of a spread top RPM to full load (as it shouldnt because it has more torque).
The RPM version looks like a D3.5 with standard rotor on the dyno and the Torque version looks like a d3.5 with a 12.5 HT rotor on the dyno....with lower amp draw.
EA
Can you say what the real difference is between the Rpm and Torque Stators? Inner diameter different?
04-26-2013, 07:41 PM
#39
Ridiculous! Let me know if you want to buy this thing! I'm done!
04-27-2013, 09:13 AM
#41
No dude! Not going into the car is deal breaker for me. It doesn't go into the associated 6.1 either. The end bell on the pinion side is drilled wrong. However, if you change the original rev tech end bell it fits! What does that tell you? IT WAS DRILLED WRONG and does not fit the T-4 or the associated.
04-27-2013, 10:51 AM
#43
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
No dude! Not going into the car is deal breaker for me. It doesn't go into the associated 6.1 either. The end bell on the pinion side is drilled wrong. However, if you change the original rev tech end bell it fits! What does that tell you? IT WAS DRILLED WRONG and does not fit the T-4 or the associated.
04-27-2013, 11:34 AM
#44
Sounds like the lightweight Revtech end plate or the D3.5 end plate. Just take the screws out, rotate the end plate 1/3 of a turn, and put the screws back. Repeat as needed. Looking at the pics of the end plate, it just needs to be rotated to line up with the motor mount screw holes. It looks like you need the side that has a motor can screw and the double mounting screw holes rotated to the bottom.
04-27-2013, 12:07 PM
#45
Mine fit in my T4's fine when I did a trial fit last night. The shims on the rotor are all already on there so no issue with that. Every motor has shims. It appears that they just wanted to keep using the same rotor since so many have them already and didnt want to use a new style one. The timing ring is messed up. This batch they got to tight and they are hard to turn. I lightly sanded the steel back plate on all the ones I got in and they turn fine now. It will be corrected on the next batch that comes in.
I'll be sporting mine at the Asphalt nats in 5 days!
EA
I'll be sporting mine at the Asphalt nats in 5 days!
EA