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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 06-21-2015, 05:42 PM
  #21316  
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I dont have a B5M yet, am I excluded from your Happy Father's Day wishes? LOL! Just kidding.

I am considering a buggy for my local track but i'm not sure if I should jump into an Associated after running Durango. I have never run an associated car - swore I never would - but, if I do, I'm going with the like and running stock class. Any additional parts I need to purchase with the kit...aside from the obvious tires and batteries?
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Old 06-21-2015, 09:51 PM
  #21317  
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE
I run the +4 mount on my T5M and I honestly didn't feel any difference at all. I'd be running it on my B5M but it doesn't work with pucks. If you run pucks you'll have to contact MIP and get shafts that at are 2mm longer.
When I put the +4 on my buggy too I didn't even notice a difference either. Must be a mental thing!
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Old 06-21-2015, 10:07 PM
  #21318  
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing
When I put the +4 on my buggy too I didn't even notice a difference either. Must be a mental thing!
I tired mine for the first time today and it was quite different. There's a big difference in feel mid corner and on power traction through corners. It actually changes a lot!! The narrower 5mm hexes are of course critical. If you keep the same camber link position it's now longer to maintain the same camber setting and because of the wider pivot the lower shock position is now further out.

I only got 1 run and a few practice laps on it so more running is needed and a few more setup tweeks. I was also running on an outdoor low bite track.
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Old 06-21-2015, 10:22 PM
  #21319  
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
I tired mine for the first time today and it was quite different. There's a big difference in feel mid corner and on power traction through corners. It actually changes a lot!! The narrower 5mm hexes are of course critical. If you keep the same camber link position it's now longer to maintain the same camber setting and because of the wider pivot the lower shock position is now further out.

I only got 1 run and a few practice laps on it so more running is needed and a few more setup tweeks. I was also running on an outdoor low bite track.
Some people are much more in tune with their car than others.
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Old 06-22-2015, 12:00 AM
  #21320  
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Originally Posted by Redsawacs
I dont have a B5M yet, am I excluded from your Happy Father's Day wishes? LOL! Just kidding.

I am considering a buggy for my local track but i'm not sure if I should jump into an Associated after running Durango. I have never run an associated car - swore I never would - but, if I do, I'm going with the like and running stock class. Any additional parts I need to purchase with the kit...aside from the obvious tires and batteries?
I have always liked to be different too so I understand it is hard to jump on the bandwagon (I am a Tamiya purist). I think you will be pleased though! In terms of upgrades from the stock Lite kit, I wanted so bad to have a list of parts I would want/need, but it comes with pretty much everything you would realistically need (BTW, it doesn't come with wheels). I am no expert, but I would build it box stock and tune from there. With the stock setup, it is pretty dang sweet. Mine, totally stock, with Tekin electronics weighs 1530 grams track-ready, you don't even really need to buy upgrades to put it on a diet for stock class. I know a lot of folks will say Pucks for starters, I would run it stock first though and see what you think.

Enjoy!
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Old 06-22-2015, 12:09 PM
  #21321  
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Thanks Mike, I have had a hard time finding the size of wheel I need (hex size). One site says I need an adapter to run 12mm wheels.

Can you confirm or deny that? I want yellow proline wheels....that shouldn't be too hard should it?
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Old 06-22-2015, 12:31 PM
  #21322  
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Originally Posted by Redsawacs
Thanks Mike, I have had a hard time finding the size of wheel I need (hex size). One site says I need an adapter to run 12mm wheels.

Can you confirm or deny that? I want yellow proline wheels....that shouldn't be too hard should it?
The B5 runs 12mm hexes all around..

http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/search?cID=&s=B5m+wheels
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Old 06-22-2015, 03:13 PM
  #21323  
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Hey guys just a heads up check your front tower when you get it , i got some attitude from associated b/c my kit was purchased 45 days ago, was out of warranty and is not a wide spread problem. Great build just a shame the hassle over a 4.00 tower.
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Old 06-22-2015, 04:45 PM
  #21324  
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Originally Posted by Jason Carroll
Hey guys just a heads up check your front tower when you get it , i got some attitude from associated b/c my kit was purchased 45 days ago, was out of warranty and is not a wide spread problem. Great build just a shame the hassle over a 4.00 tower.
I am actually running the MM arms and tower on my b5m stock buggy. I would worn both sets for tuning
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Old 06-22-2015, 05:56 PM
  #21325  
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Originally Posted by Mantis Toboggan
Cooper, just as Mason said, a 7.5 is a lot of motor and it takes a lot of skill to drive a car with that much power. Even on high grip surfaces, where it is easier to lay down that kind of power, you still have to have the control. There are lots of things you can do to mellow out the power, and lowering the EPA is not one of them. That is why speed controls have so many settings.

Gearing, motor timing, and the massive amount of settings you can change in the ESC are all correct changes you can make to mellow the throttle response of a 7.5. That said, if you make too many adjustments it can make the throttle feel weird, and make your car inconsistent. Ultimately, if a 7.5 is too much for you to handle, try a slower motor. All the power does you no good if you can't control your car.
The .5 motors tend to have more narrow power bands based on the onroad guys. The whole number motors will be more smooth. Most guys run 7.5 at the indoor off-road track I race at. So I run 8.0 sonic. No one is pulling away from me on the straight. Even if I wanted more torque I could adjust timing. I think even a 9.0 could be good if you are just starting out.
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Old 06-22-2015, 08:52 PM
  #21326  
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Has there been any info on a new B5m? I believe it is around that time, no?
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Old 06-23-2015, 12:26 AM
  #21327  
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Originally Posted by RC1010
Has there been any info on a new B5m? I believe it is around that time, no?
The B5M Lite just came out. Why on earth would you think that they are going to come out with another new car? Wow, just wow.
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Old 06-23-2015, 07:09 AM
  #21328  
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Default mm rock on mid to low bite tracks

Originally Posted by Bcholka
Go mid-motor. Our track (Trackside Raceway in Wisconsin) is medium bite and mid-motors rock there!!!!
Lots of people "seem" to feel that you need very high bite for them to work--it's just not true. I think people have these ideas because certain "convertible" buggies (where you can switch from mid to rear) just don't work.
When you run a dedicated design (mid motor specifically) the geometry is such to maximize the buggy's performance.
Kudos to AE for releasing these dedicated designs!!
Our local track is loomy early in the season but gets more bite as the season progresses and both rm and mm have been competitive but when we go inside the mm buggy is hard to beat
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Old 06-23-2015, 10:37 AM
  #21329  
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I wouldn't be surprised if a Worlds Car comes out after the Worlds. Or at least the parts/conversion kit for our nearly full-time carpet brethren.
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Old 06-23-2015, 10:45 AM
  #21330  
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Originally Posted by Mason
I wouldn't be surprised if a Worlds Car comes out after the Worlds. Or at least the parts/conversion kit for our nearly full-time carpet brethren.
Historically, AE's platform cycles are about 1 year. The B5 platform came out in Jan and the B5m was like March of 2014. This April time frame the B5M lite came out..again, about 1 year. I would not expect any new platform updates until then, if at all. If they make their own low rider tranny, it will be separate, as that config is not hat popular in the US. Unless, thed decide to release a B5M European Edition. Many of the "Pro" drivers are using the 3 gear tranny in mod, so the "lite" car is also what most "pro" drivers would use, with what ever option parts they deem needed for tuning. AE has given drivers a lot of options. 2 different chassis, 2 different sets of front and rear arms, different front tower, 3 gear / 4 gear tranny and all the brass bling. With the number of options available, it is no wonder so many people get the MM car to work on just about any surface. And of course, there is the RM option. No way AE will ever put it all into one box...that is silly. So, the lite car is pretty much what most people would want. Then customize to your needs.
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