3LikesVBC Lightning 12
06-25-2014, 11:16 AM
#467
Tech Apprentice
06-25-2014, 11:20 AM
#468
Tech Apprentice
Most of the VBC folks who respond regularly here on rctech are from North America, where we have very little 12th scale asphalt racing (unfortunately.) I think there have been some recent posts in the 12th scale thread about tire choice for asphalt, which is where I would recommend starting. Get the right tires, go from there.
I believe that with Pro-One tires we are recommending Orange rears (different than the synthetic orange Parma/Jaco used to sell) with Team Purple or Double Pink fronts.
My initial setup recommendation would be to start with the rear of the car soft (think like 15k tube lube, softest center spring you have, AE black sides.) Depending on how bumpy the track is you will likely also set ride height a bit higher, and you might also want to run a higher-downforce body like the Protoform TR-12.
Sorry I can't be of more help; we just don't have a lot of asphalt 12th racing here in North America.
I believe that with Pro-One tires we are recommending Orange rears (different than the synthetic orange Parma/Jaco used to sell) with Team Purple or Double Pink fronts.
My initial setup recommendation would be to start with the rear of the car soft (think like 15k tube lube, softest center spring you have, AE black sides.) Depending on how bumpy the track is you will likely also set ride height a bit higher, and you might also want to run a higher-downforce body like the Protoform TR-12.
Sorry I can't be of more help; we just don't have a lot of asphalt 12th racing here in North America.
06-25-2014, 11:21 AM
#469
Tech Apprentice
^^^^ This is solid advice. Tires and traction additive are going to be your main changes. Pink or magenta rears with an assortment of pink, magneta, double pink and lylac are all tires I would initially show up with. I remember black can paragon followed by an application of suntan lotion if its dusty or hot out.
But as Chris mentioned, we don't really have the opportunity to run asphalt 1/12. Its always indoors in North America.
Hopefully that helps.
-Korey
But as Chris mentioned, we don't really have the opportunity to run asphalt 1/12. Its always indoors in North America.
Hopefully that helps.
-Korey
06-25-2014, 12:41 PM
#470
Ill be running on ashphalt ina couple weeks so ill report back my progress. Starting with magenta pink/blue/green crc tires and a fairly soft setup.
I tried it with my old asc car and did black greylow which worked but wore very fast. i think crc pink/pink is where ill end up but im pretty poor and dont wanna buy more tires lol
I had prepped my mod tc but blew the esc, 12th scale was a last minute afterthought for a third class.
I tried it with my old asc car and did black greylow which worked but wore very fast. i think crc pink/pink is where ill end up but im pretty poor and dont wanna buy more tires lol
I had prepped my mod tc but blew the esc, 12th scale was a last minute afterthought for a third class.
06-26-2014, 11:32 AM
#471
Tech Apprentice
What's the best battery position? across the chassis or the length of the chassis?
07-07-2014, 10:35 AM
#475
Tech Apprentice
Hi guys.... What's the handling differences between caster on the kingpin angle vs the spacers on the kingpin?
07-07-2014, 01:01 PM
#477
Tech Apprentice
07-07-2014, 02:25 PM
#478
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
No worries.
The spacers on the upper hingepin are dictating static caster. The more spacers you have rearwards the more static caster, vice versa for shims moved forwards. Less static caster (shims moved forward) will make the car have more steering off-center, but less steering mid-out. More static caster (shims moved rearwards) will make the car a bit lazier off-center, but with more mid-out steering. I normally switch between either the big shim forward or the big shim back, but rarely use both shims back or both shims forward.
The angle of that upper hingepin is called reactive caster, and there are three different options for how that caster block is positioned: 0, 5, and 10-degree. Reactive caster is caster change through the corner and through the suspension travel. 0 would be 'old-school' with no reactive caster (so only static caster dictated by shims, as above). With 5 and 10 it really seems to be a matter of driving style, track, and personal preference. With reactive caster the kingpin will 'stand up' and caster will be reduced as the car turns and the suspension compresses, and then as the car straightens out the caster angle will increase again. For me, I think 5-degree typically feels the most consistent through the corner for mod 12th scale, but the 10-degree can feel pretty good too, depending on track conditions. Ultimately, I would recommend trying the different options for yourself and see what you prefer.
The spacers on the upper hingepin are dictating static caster. The more spacers you have rearwards the more static caster, vice versa for shims moved forwards. Less static caster (shims moved forward) will make the car have more steering off-center, but less steering mid-out. More static caster (shims moved rearwards) will make the car a bit lazier off-center, but with more mid-out steering. I normally switch between either the big shim forward or the big shim back, but rarely use both shims back or both shims forward.
The angle of that upper hingepin is called reactive caster, and there are three different options for how that caster block is positioned: 0, 5, and 10-degree. Reactive caster is caster change through the corner and through the suspension travel. 0 would be 'old-school' with no reactive caster (so only static caster dictated by shims, as above). With 5 and 10 it really seems to be a matter of driving style, track, and personal preference. With reactive caster the kingpin will 'stand up' and caster will be reduced as the car turns and the suspension compresses, and then as the car straightens out the caster angle will increase again. For me, I think 5-degree typically feels the most consistent through the corner for mod 12th scale, but the 10-degree can feel pretty good too, depending on track conditions. Ultimately, I would recommend trying the different options for yourself and see what you prefer.
07-07-2014, 11:47 PM
#479
Tech Apprentice
No worries.
The spacers on the upper hingepin are dictating static caster. The more spacers you have rearwards the more static caster, vice versa for shims moved forwards. Less static caster (shims moved forward) will make the car have more steering off-center, but less steering mid-out. More static caster (shims moved rearwards) will make the car a bit lazier off-center, but with more mid-out steering. I normally switch between either the big shim forward or the big shim back, but rarely use both shims back or both shims forward.
The angle of that upper hingepin is called reactive caster, and there are three different options for how that caster block is positioned: 0, 5, and 10-degree. Reactive caster is caster change through the corner and through the suspension travel. 0 would be 'old-school' with no reactive caster (so only static caster dictated by shims, as above). With 5 and 10 it really seems to be a matter of driving style, track, and personal preference. With reactive caster the kingpin will 'stand up' and caster will be reduced as the car turns and the suspension compresses, and then as the car straightens out the caster angle will increase again. For me, I think 5-degree typically feels the most consistent through the corner for mod 12th scale, but the 10-degree can feel pretty good too, depending on track conditions. Ultimately, I would recommend trying the different options for yourself and see what you prefer.
The spacers on the upper hingepin are dictating static caster. The more spacers you have rearwards the more static caster, vice versa for shims moved forwards. Less static caster (shims moved forward) will make the car have more steering off-center, but less steering mid-out. More static caster (shims moved rearwards) will make the car a bit lazier off-center, but with more mid-out steering. I normally switch between either the big shim forward or the big shim back, but rarely use both shims back or both shims forward.
The angle of that upper hingepin is called reactive caster, and there are three different options for how that caster block is positioned: 0, 5, and 10-degree. Reactive caster is caster change through the corner and through the suspension travel. 0 would be 'old-school' with no reactive caster (so only static caster dictated by shims, as above). With 5 and 10 it really seems to be a matter of driving style, track, and personal preference. With reactive caster the kingpin will 'stand up' and caster will be reduced as the car turns and the suspension compresses, and then as the car straightens out the caster angle will increase again. For me, I think 5-degree typically feels the most consistent through the corner for mod 12th scale, but the 10-degree can feel pretty good too, depending on track conditions. Ultimately, I would recommend trying the different options for yourself and see what you prefer.